RW1

I have what are called Walk-in Parts Lofts. Much tidier. :grin: .

Take it has the fuel pump running? Check there is a spark. Cylinders not flooded with too much fuel. Take plugs out an let it breath. Battery power OK and cranking voltage across the battery terminals is above 10 volts otherwise the ignition starts to shut down. Will it start and run if the throttle is held halfway during starting? .

More house clutter J.?? lol .

Forget the throttle stop. Will deal with that if this doesn't work. It may have lost Engine ECU Basic Settings. You need VCDS and do the ECU reset procedure in full. See Wiki for detail. Its like this.......... ie Disconnect the battery for a few seconds using the earth connection. Reconnect and drive the engine until it done over 10 mins, don't let it sit and idle, drive off straight away, stopping at lights doesn't matter. Just drive normally with one good constant full throttle acceleration from low down up the rpm range, roughly taking 4 seconds. After about 30 mins. Stop and leave the engine idling. Use VCDS and put the Engine ECU into Basic Setting for the Group number 000 or 001 depending on your ECU part number in the Wiki. Blip the throttle upto 3,000 rpm for a second and leave idlling for another 2 minutes plus a few seconds. Don't touch the throttle during this 2 minutes + and make sure electical loads like interior fans, lights etc are off. The rad fan doesn't matter but when exiting Basic Settings, do so when the rad fan isn't running. Exit Basic Settings. All set up. Enjoy the drive. .

Have you disconnected the battery recently or done an adjustment to the throttle stop? .

Every one has left the country....... school holidays etc...... Poor time to sell anything auction wise as there is a reduced audience. .

Just beige. .

I'm no expert but being around both chassis, there is lot to do. Engine central mount is front Corrado where as the Scirocco/Golf 6 is at the back. Getting the intercooler and Rad in. They are wide and tall. Electrics will be a nightmare as all the controllers interchange data via the CANBUS. One missing and some things won't work. On mine, the DSG/Brakes/Engine are all one as a unit when it comes to data sharing plus the Central Electrics controller has a big finger in the pie as well. Manual maybe a little less. Then there are all sorts of sensors around that have impact on how the car operates. The R may be as bad looking at the VW workshop inforamtion. Be interesting to see how it get solved by somebody but they are going to need a lot of know-how. .

Mines the same. Been chasing it for the last 6 months having cleared the oil cooler (engine seal side gone), sump (weeping) and timing chain casing/head gasket extension weeping (tighten up the forward bolt of the two that sit on the underside by quarter of a turn, it was slack.). But in the middle of all this, I found the top of an oil filter (metal top plate) stuck up the oil filter housing which appears to have been causing higher oil pressure problems. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56348-Problem-with-VR6-slightly-overheating-with-rising-Oil-Pressure Since removing the filter metal top, the sump gasket has stopped wheezing oil mist and things have settle down. Whats now left comes out usually when the oil is very hot on a run. Its on mine coming from inside the clutch housing which suggests the crank seal but from what I see looking up there with a bright light, its not coming from the shaft area. And it appears "after" the drive mainly - as much as upto 12 hours afterwards it appears, not during the drive. I have just lowered the oil level down a little to the top of cross-hatched area of the dip-stick by dropping out what was in the filter housing. Then added Forte Seal Conditioner on the basis the crank seal is ageing but not damaged and needs a bit of rejuvenation. Too early to know whether this has worked as the seals haven't had time to adjust since Sunday. Other than that it gets down to the crank seal mounting plate on the side of the block weeping (metal to metal seal). That needs the gearbox off. Clutch is still some way off as is the engine chain guides etc. After the leaks I have had, its down to 2 drips per journey, which is pretty good going considering it was plumming down the underside of the Corrado. .

It is easy. Leave the engine standing for 24 hours to minimise oil dripping. It needs the right spanner to get on the bolt/cap cover (ring/open ended so the ring end cants onto the bolt. Undo. Old seals (2) out. Clean surface on engine block for smooth surface. Fit new seals (2) and tighten up the bolt/cap cover (not over tight so seal is still flexible, not squashed hard.) The power steering pipe mounting bracket by the oil filter housing will need detaching but not the hose itself. There are two pipes attached to the oil cooler but they don't restrict access, so can stay connected. Just push the oil cooler up out of the way while you clean the engine block seal contacting area. The Corrado should be lifted up at the front by ramps or a jack at the jacking points and axle stands for safety. Access is then pretty easy. Took me an hour and I was taking my time cos I wanted the engine block surface as smooth as possible. .

The parts on the German site ain't cheap and with the Euro exchange rate, they've got dearer recently. .

No black option was available with Sunroof switch.......... .

12 months ago got out of my Scirocco 1.4 with a good options spec. Sat in a R in the showroom. Looked at the price tag through the windscreen... £32k v £24k I have. 105PS, split twin exhaust and a little badge extra, ..... for extra £ 8K . Er.... no. That R badge is awfully heavy. Must be solid gold. .

Yellow one if its still the original one. New ones don't vomr in yellow plastic body colour. .

75'C..... I've had drops to 80'C occassionally in light driving. So not unusual if conditions are right. .

110'C is not exceptional. Mine does it to that level and all is well and has been checked recently. If your first stage fan setting is not working (I doubt as it sounds like you are getting what is normal for a VR6). The test: Test the rad fan supply at the connection on the back of the fan when the temperature is getting high. Stage 1 fan voltage supply is the Red/White stripe wire. Stage 2 is the Red/Black stripe wire. Put a voltmeter across the stage 1 wire to earth. See when it switches on. Does the rad fan also come on. (Tip: Use a paper clip into the back of the connector on the engine side to get at the wire's metal connection inside the connector). If not, suspect the radiator thermoswitch midway down the end of the radiator by the battery. I suspect you will find nothing is wrong. And the car is running normally. .

What is "really high" when stationary? Don't think you have a thermostat problem other wise the water wouldn't come down with the oil temp following. Petrol.... usually if you can smell inside, its drawing it in from the engine bay. Check the pipe connection below the brake fluid reservioir pipes from the tank area coming up their are white, blue & black. Check the blue & black while the engine is running. The joins are body channel. Just smell with the use of a tube. Then follow the rubber pipes off the blue & black connections to the front right of the engine and again check for leaks while the engine is running. (watch loose clothing around the moving belt!!) The go to the front left corner of the engine. Next to the intake manifold, you will see a small round cylindrical unit at the end of the fuel rail. Check the little black hose is connected and no leaking. .

You might not be...... there is no road at the Hazel Grove, all ripped up. Usually closed 20:00 - 06:00 during the week. Don't know what this Sunday times are the sign doesn't say at Sainsbury's. .

VCDS Check: No parts or looms or HT leads disassembled at this point. Check the Engine ECU fault memory has no faults stored (most likely is VAG code: 01242) Ignition coil & Coil Amplifier can be assumed to be OK. But to be certain, do the coil tests below. Coil Transformer Testing: - Disconnect the connector (3 wire plug). - Disconnect the coil to Dizzy HT lead. Measure across terminals 1 & 15. These are the two metal points between the 3 wire connector and the HT connection. Should read 0.5 to 0.7ohms. If the reading is not obtained or out of specification above, remove the coil pack unit and split it by undoing the two bolts. Remove the ignition amplifier part. Now measure the coil again across the terminal 1 & 15 for 0.5 to 0.7 ohms. If not the above reading, new coil transformer part is required. Re-assemble the coil pack with the two bolts/nuts. (So as to conduct the Ignition Amplifier test below.) Ignition Amplifier Testing: Across the Coil's loom connector with the three wires, connect a voltmeter to pins 1 & 3 (outer pins) in the connector. Switch on the ignition. Across pins 1 & 3 should read approximate battery volts, ie. it is around 12 volts. Switch off the ignition. Connect a 12 volt capable LED (LED + Resistor - suggest 560 or 680 ohm value resistor) across the pins 2 & 3 of the coil 3-wire connector . Switch on the ignition again and operate the starter while observing the LED. The LED has to flicker. If not the output of the Engine ECU has failed. New Engine ECU required. Switch off the ignition. Now re-connect the coil pack 3-wire plug to the coil pack and the HT lead from the Dizzy. So the car is back to normal running condition. (During the next tests, do not touch the terminal pins 1 & 15 as well as the test LED/Resistor simultaneously with your fingers etc. ) Now connect the LED & resistor to pins 1 & 15 on the coil transformer itself which are between the 3-wire connector and the HT lead connection. Switch on the ignition. The LED must light for 1 to 2 seconds and then extinguish. With ignition still on, operate the starter. The LED/resistor must flicker. If not, renew the coil packs ignition amplifier part. C.

The electrical connection is the same with the same loom plastic connector body on early switch looms/late switch looms. .

I can give you the coil test and some checks of the Amplifier connection tomorrow, but given your "Electrics has me stumped", I left it. Shout if you need. The rest needs a pin by pin check of the Engine ECU connections and some other tests. .

It has two parts. Coil and transistor amplifier switch unit. Held together by the two bolts. These are generally reliable. What isn't is the hall sender in the dissy due to the transmitted engine heat. It isn't a spare. The one listed on VW ETKA is for the 16v engine. Not a spare for the VR6. New dissy??? .

The quick UK parts delivery is not universally next day etc. Just the majority. .

They wouldn't survive in the shop with me. Thats what RW stands for as a nick-name. Fact you've topped it up doesn't matter. It should fail on test at their premises where ever you decide to go. Just say.... "The battery is gassing a in cell. Won't hold charge very well. I don't think its safe to used anymore on my car. Also, I've tried trickle charging it with no improvement." Keep it simple. The fact the cell is full now is ocs you topped it up having tried to trickle charge it. If they know their beans, that will immediately be a recognisable fault to them. End of the day, what are they protecting??? A warranty is a warranty and if it can be tested to fail, then its an asbsolute case. The parent company expects a statistical return of batteries due to early failure inside the warranty period. They've budgeted for that in the "ex-works" price. .

Literature.... no. My own experiences with numerous battery failures over the years and nursing them. And those were VW supplied. I can recall two doing this with cell failures. One gassed on the car as I drove over a ramp in a car park gentle like. Stank like hell and the bonnet area looked as though the rad header tank had blown or a rad hose. White vapour all over the place. My friend has just one go with two cells gassing two nights ago. Another VW battery been on the car about 18 months. As I said, its a common failure mode. The explosion is not necessarily the gas igniting. The battery literally just blows up like a balloon with the gassing and pops with one almighty bang. Cap off may stop that but you will be loading the alternator and therefore running things continually at higher current output which will put strain on the alternator. Just searched on car battery gassing.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery .