RW1

I'll just bring Walesy to play with Trigg while I'm sorting the motor. :lol: .

Relay is "80" but part is an earlier relay version 191 906 383. Pump hasn't got 12 volts by the look of it. .

Yes, needs sorting. Plus the ignition leakage you must have in the lead. At least remove each lead from it's carrier groove and wipe with WD40 as well as inspect. Plus check all other leads for damage and resistance (5kohm +/- 3Kohms as a rough guide.). It could be related to the oil drip but it does point to an HT leakage on the lead. The result was no spark so when the ignition fire again on the exhaust stroke the backfire in the cylinder concerned blew back via the inlet valve. The ISV must have been open so it blew the silencer apart. VR6 ignition with coil packs fire twice per cycle, about 20 multiple times on induction stroke and the same on the exhaust stroke. .

It may be 67 if earlier. Part number is like 191 906 383C (the "C" being different possibly). If different, post the part number up. .

Here we go. Two view of a 1995 VR6 Fuse/Relay Panel. (Ignore the two Siemens relays, they are not standard.) Fuel Pump: Lift back right hand side of carpet and remove the black round panel. All will be revealed. Use my other notes off the Corrado Egroup for pump wires at the connector. If the blue connector is the one in the photo, it's not connectoed. About 6 or so are that way in the looms terminating at the panel. Also, check the single connections on the back of the relay panel on the door pillar end, ones with heavy duty wires. Can come off sometimes. .

There are links from the fog & headlights to the spoiler fuse 16 (15amps). The prang may have shorted something in these which blew fuse 16. May be you tested the lights with the spoiler up and the fuse blew at that time. Otherwise as said, check connections. Spoiler controller, under dash switch, boot connector in the the left area ( white/blue & green/white wires) and connector in the reasr hatch. .

Take the back cover internal panel off and check the actuating rod is connected to the lock mechanism and is moving it. I've seen one or two drop out. .

Is the plug actually stamped with that part number I wrote above?? (Surprised it's not the correct one) Red/black wire goes to the fan controller. Is the 5 amp fuse in the controller clear capped set of three OK? This is the fuse for the aux pump red/black wire.

The later spoiler control unit on the VR6 is different to the one shown. ..

Hows about £1.75 each. .

Oh..... Slacken them off as above and see if they rotate silently. You may get away with not having to change them. .

You can modify the unit to adjust the speed at which it rises though. Isn't that what g60dave was posting about?? .

The nicer shift on VR6 is more likely to be the shift weight. Has yours got it fitted. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 5&start=15 Bottom of the first page is the parts list & diagram. .

Exactly what have you done. Just tightened it or run with it tightened and for how long. The answer is how long is a piece of string? .

There is no torque!!!!! You should tighten it so that the thick washer the nut bears on can just, just be moved with a screw driver flat blade side to side with some effort but not forced. Spin the disc while tightening up the nut to bed the bearing home until the washer is gripped but not locked. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN as this will cause the bearing to fail. In the design, the castelated cap over the nut with split pin fitted stop the nut rotating. .

The VW G12+ also acts as a corrosion inhibitor for the alloy head and cast iron block as well. It's not just antifreeze like some that are blue, ie glycol or ethanol only. .

443 823 597A - Sleeve. .

Why not check it out on the manual switch under the dash. If it doesn't move straight away, then you know it's stuck. And you can release the switch immediately to avoid damage unlike at speed. Alternatively, manual work the spoiler using the "dog bone" handle inside the rear hatch behind the cover panel. No override to stop it unless you pull fuses but that will loose other circuits as well. Alternatively remove the motor's plug in the rear hatch by removing the panel to stop it working. .

Drive one and you will think differently! :wink: It's 10.6 secs. .

Yeah, should be engine. Tom will be along soon with his broom to shift it. Perhaps need a little bit more detail as I wouldn't think it's necessary to buy/find a replacement. Where's the air getting in? Is it entering the fuel or just bypassing the air paddle and causing a weak mixture? For triggermyson, it's the metering head (by another name) on the front right hand side of the engine bay. .

It's a spare wire unless the factory fitted the oil pressure and voltmeter gauge. The wire is the oil pressure gauge sender wire when it's fitted as a single pole sender (using a banjo coupling at the oil filter head) and the oil pressure switch is still used for the red dash LED & buzzer. When not in use it's tucked up behind the fan using a coolant hose plastic "C" shoulder clip to secure it from dangling about. .

fotocall & BristolVR6. Do the WD40 trick with the connection inside the dash in the thread Jim has pointed to. :wink: .

Reason I asked about the throttle position sender reading is that it is a separate cicuit so I expected the battery volts to be OK. Therefore, there is most likely a wiring fault. ------- The ignition 12 volts is direct on pin 38 of the ECU plug. The ECU relay switches ignition 12 volts onto pin 23 (the ECU needs to be connected for this one as relay is controlled by the ECU). The "common earth" in the ECU loom which isn't directly earthed to the chassis but via pin 33 on the ECU plug, so if the ECU plug is disconnected, a continuity check to the following will check the loom's internal common earthy connection. Knock Sensor 1 pin 2, blue wire to ECU pin 33 Knock Sensor 2 pin 2, brown/white wire to ECU pin 33 Coolant Sender (blue) pin 2 brown/green to ECU pin 33 Throttle Pos. Sender pin 1 brown/green wire to ECU pin 33 Inlet temp sensor pin 2 brown/green to ECU pin 33 .

ISV supplements the throttle in the low rpm range below 2,000 rpm. .

Is the throttle moving with the engine stopped in the VAG-COM measuring blocks? The intake temp & coolant temp have a common earth and derive their reference voltage directly from the ECU. As they work with the engine running, the earth side must be OK. As the engine runs OK, the battery & ignition supplies to the ECU (3 off ) must be there. Therefore it may be the ECU internally. Just check battery volts are at pin 54 on the ECU plug to eliminate that possibility (ie with no ignition switched on). .