RW1

He usually has a stand at GTI Inters if you want to wait til June. .

The other thing that may be happening is that the "down" is not completing before the spoiler control cuts out as it is timed. See if a click from behind the dash by the headlight switch coincides with the spoiler stopping on the downward movement. Maybe a spoiler controller but again I would start with splitting the spoiler's gearbox and checking. .

http://www.skpang.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=21 X-One .

Have you disconnected the battery at all? If so, the Autobox ECU has to be set up with diagnostics. Otherwise, erractic / strange things happen............. .

That microswitch is for the "up" stop. I suggest you take the gearbox apart and clean the mechanism, despite it being free & easy. The internal motor cut-off for the "down" may be cutting in because it is finding it hard to move and tripping out early. I think one picture will do!...... .

Yes, Fleebay one will do the job. Remember to set VAG-COM to 4,800 baud before selecting interrogation of the engine ECU and the main lead must have an electrical interface isolation coupling, not the optical coupling isolation type for the ECU. Very fickle. .

:oops: :shocked!: :? When you surface for air, let us know what it was???? .

OK blue coolant sender in thermostat housing has a blue wire from ECU connector pin 14, brown/green to pin 57. Oil temp is green/black going through the engine connector pin 5 and on to the fuse/relay panel connector G2 pin 1 (white plug in the bottom row, has a white plug on either side). Check the earth side by touch the temp sender body to battery earth and see if it forms a circuit. Oil temp only goes to the dash MFA, not the ECU.

Jeeezzzzzzzz we have a scientist amongst us......... :lol: .

What's the fault code number?? Gauge coolant isn't linked to diagnostics; yellow connector in the thermostat housing is the dash gauge. The blue sender is in the thermostat housing is (coolant). I’ll look at the wiring off line…… .

into the ECU itself. .

Voltage while cranking the engine should be above 9.5 volts or the electronics don't like it and stop working. .

The two side electrical connections on the glass can corrode. Check the connectors are clean but be careful cleaning anything up thats corroded where it connects to the glass painted heated strips/side strip. Efficiency of the painted strips doesn't noticably deteriorate with use or time. Available since 1990. Certainly standard on 1990 16v & G60 onwards and VR6 1992 onwards in UK. Given there is no european spare parts for non-heated, almost certain all models have heated mirrors. The heated mirrors are switched on by the HRW switch in parallel with the rear window. Corrosion at the mirror back plate is the most likely reason for not working after 10 - 15 years. Ditto, how dare you loose the faith Kebabman. .

This maybe the switch on the gearbox. Located just ahead of the gear change cables (pair) on top of the box. The electrical connector is on the forward side of the unit. If both lights goe out, would suspect this. If only one, look at the bulb or the wire connector to the rear lamp units. Extreme but may have happened, one of the wires has chaffed inside one of the rubber gaitors where the rear hatch hinges are on the top side. .

I thought the last ones had gone last June???? In another thread somewhere last summer. .

Engine must be running with the "AG" engine ECU on a 1994 VR6 otherwise some parameters read incorrectly. "CP" ECU version will read correctly with the ignition on only. .

The 16v 2.0ltr has only a Group 000 measuring block available. 10 fields with digits in each which have to be used in conjunction with the workshop manual. ie. "field 4 must achieve value 5 to pass, if other value replace......" So, its not like the VR6 with 7 sets of measuring blocks. That is why 001 upwards give error. .

Also the 4 motion Golf III in europe was powered by the ABV 2.9ltr engine. .

Positioning......... Scirocco III at Onsabruck :wink: .

Has the aerial base a separate power wire? If not, have you got an isolator at the back of the radio which puts 12 volts up the aerial wire but isolates the 12 volts from the radio. It's usually either small black cube or a long thin "cigar tube" (isolator). The aerial plugs into this and fly lead plugs from it into the radio aerial input. Also of the isolator has a power fly lead to connect to a 12 volts source, usually the radio electric aerial up/down wire. .

Front nearside on block above sump pan lip (near the front engine mount) .

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/archives.html Down load the v409.1 "serials" and try it. Will depend on interface. If not use v311.2. They both work on VR6 but if interface is opto isolating electronics, v311.2 should be used. There's no real functionality change with respect to the Corrado VR6. .

The manual specifies both ways, ie. pressure bleeding or manual pumping with opening/closing the bleed nipple for the Teves 04 system. Pressure bleeding cos the garage uses the equipment rather than it being a requirement on this system. (The LHD system (Teves 02) is similar (pressure or manual bleeding) but the ABS pump runs with the ignition on while bleeding). .

No relay involved. Coolant sender level inputs to dash insert (rpm/speedo) plus it also has the temp sender (yellow) in thermostat housing. It computes low level or over hot from their readings. .

No. Just bleed them as ordinary brakes for the Teves 04 (RHD UK Corrado). .