RW1

Didn't say it was any good. Just fascinating....... :lol: .

With the battery disconnected or you can easily blow the regulator. Dash light is not always there if an alternator is not charging properly. It goes off when the alternator output voltage is greater than battery voltage. ie. Alternator 12.01 to 14 volts is greater than battery 12.00 volts for example. 12 volts does not sound right if the battery is charged (yes , agree if the battery is flattish it will not be 14 volts immediately). The alternator will be/should be 14 volts-ish at idle as well as at running speeds providing the electrical loads (lights, fans, etc.) are off. Either the voltage regulator has blown or the diode pack isn't working. You've not run the engine with the alternator disconnected from the battery at any time??? .

The cable release is quite fascinating! The passenger side is pulled by the inner wire. The Driver's side is pushed by the outer cable cover. The driver's side relies on the bend in the cable at the driver's side headlight being tightened (sharper radius) by the inner wire and the outer cable cover being fixed at the pull handle in the cabin. That slight change of bend radius and it being anchoured at the handle is enough to push the wire arm into the centre of the car and release the bonnet pin. This is why the driver's side doesn't pop when the outer cable cover anchor point at the handle has broken. So if the bonnet won't pop on the driver's side (common issue) and the anchor point is loose at the handle, the outer cable cover should be gripped and pushed forward while pulling the handle. .

Measured mine recently and it was drawing 0.25amps. Thats OK in my case considering what hanging on the battery (Rocco was 0.070amps) 0.25amps per hour into a 60amp hour battery = 240hours (10 days) in theory. But with only say 60% available before battery volts under starter load dropsbelow 9.2 volts = 6 days standing. (9.2 volts is about where the electronics shut down = no start) Electrical load in off condition? = Car, radio/CD jukebox, voltmeter/oil gauges, alarm on. .

Point about the original fit coolant oil cooler is it is designed to warm the oil up quicker until operating temperature is acheived. Then it maintains the oil temp or absorbs the extra temperature and dumps the heat into the water cooling system. Applies to all Corrado engines. So replacing isn't the way. Adding in parallel, yes so that it works when oil temp rises above operating temp but is off during warm-up. .

Sit the car on the ground either level or slightly nose up, open the bleed nipple. It should trickle if all is well. If not, get someone to press the brake very slightly to encourage. If still not, proceed as bleeding the brakes. If the brake pedal is hard to work with the nipple open, the suspect the hose. Another sign of the hose being suspect is that it is sweating brake fluid (wet). .

That's more like it. :lol: .

Did the rear brake bleed OK, ie. fluid flowed out quite freely without pedal pressure with the car on level ground. Sometimes the rubber brake hoses on the torsion arm collapse internally letting fluid thro under pressure to the caliper but taking ages to relieve pressure in the caliper causing it to bind. .

Can't guarentee the trap is there at B&Q, but you know the size you are looking for. You may find that in a local hardware store nearer to properties that suffer from damp - 100 year old terraces etc. The tub of crystals should be at B7Q and there cheaper there. .

Corrado Radiator Fan Thermo-switches – Engines KR, 9A, 2E, ADY & PG. All work in a similar way. Dual switch in the radiator – Stage 1 is on at 92’C to 97’C. Stage 2 is on at 99’C to 105’C. A third thermo-switch via a controller is on at 100’C for all engines except the G60 “PG”. This engine has a thermo-switch that operates at 90’C. This thermo-switch operates the radiator fan via the controller in the ignition off condition. On 16v KR & 9A engines, the third thermo-switch is located on the forward right hand side corner of the rocker cover (cam belt end). On the 8v 2E & ADY engines, it is located on the rear side of the engine rocker cover. On the G60 PG engine, it is located between the inlet chamber and the ISV. -------------------- That sounds as though it is working correctly except for one point. The first stage fan switch (95'C) or the first stage of the fan motor is not working. 2nd stage is working cos it cuts in at 110'C and the run-on fan thremo-switch is working with the ignition off as that is cutting in. The reason most likely for it's 2 minute delay is rising heat in the engine block. .

Here's one for you following on from VR6. I have used crystals for the last 8 years, both for storage & daily use. My Corrado & Roccos have a very large moisture trap in the rear foot well in a 4 ltr ice cream tub (Spillage). In the tub, the 5 inch round / dome unit is trapped by 4 aerosol (deo) plastic caps. B&Q sell the traps and tubs of absorbing crystals near the central heating shelves. Stands lateral turns very well. Not 100% but does suck in a lot of moisture. Refresh the unit about every 3 months, know it needs doing as the liquid can be heard. It finds it hard when the car is parked overnight near fields as there is much more dampness around. It's always a problem with Coupes cos of the glass being more sloped. All my coupes have suffered from it. But..... extreme condensation means a leak typically from the door flash sheilds or the windscreen. .

Sorree, had second thoughts. My 8vs take about 12 mins (8mins in summer) to fully warm up this weather to 90'C over 3.5 miles in this weather. VR6 takes about 12 minutes in summer to get oil to operating temp of 90'C. I've not know VWs to be any differnet from the era 1980 - 1995. .

Built by Design+Technik of Hamburg. Top is a one off not Karmann. .

Blue/white wire? On the 1990 G60 it's the wire that connects the oil pressure gauge sender "G" connection to the oil pressure gauge if it was fitted. The "G" conection is the sender's output connection. It runs from the filter head to the back of the fuse/relay panel. If no gauge fitted at build, then as said - "spare" .

They do! Connector housing - 357 972 752 Repair wires with end fittings fitted - 000 979 133 - 2 required. 93p + VAT TBH it's such a common connector, on all VW & AUDIs, it would be worth going down the scrapper and looking. Snip off with wires and just join on. .

Beat me to it Dutch, a bit more detail. There are two water pump wiring circuits. Both the same but the fan controller changes and the aux. pump wire colours differ. Early August 1991 to July 1993 (Upto 50PK012000) has a pump with supply wire red/black and earth as brown wire. Later is about August 1993 onwards (chassis 50RK000001 onwards) which has a red/black supply wire and brown/green earth wire. This loom standard has also been made with uprated wiring. Not quite sure where the chassis split is as it differs in different documents but your Corrado has an early type fan controller circuit with 50amp fuse only hence the colour of the wires. See this topic..... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 0&start=30 The auxiliary water pump is the same for both circuits although the part number suffix has been updated over time. .

Excellent :thumb right: .

Top of the oil filter housing. Three sensors, two forward, one rear right hand side. Oil temp is rear right side one. .

One of the possible causes. Talking to Matthew on Sunday, I think the set-up may be not easy for him. Pilot rather than mechanic. You have to disconnect the connector on the engine side of the flow meter head and connect a current meter across the pins but also maintain the other connections of the plug connection. The current value is 2.5 +/- 2.5mA. Other causes are an air leak in the intake after the airflow metering head to the engine intake manifold or an earth connection between the ECU and the engine intake manifold is open circuit. .

There are two 3 speed rad fan circuits. From August 1991 to July 1994 & post August 1994 (Chassis 50SK00****). The change is in the fan controller and wire thicknesses. The early fan controller has one fuse, 50 amp built in – part number 1H0 919 506. The later has 3 fuses, 5 amp, 20amp & 50 amp built in, part number 357 919 506. The change of this part is tied to the year previous in the parts listings, ie, the controller was changed August 1993. Interchangeable. Well - no. Same circuit but different pin number connections in the plug, different wire current ratings and fuses change, early are fuses 13 – 10 amp, 19 – 30 amp while the later circuit is fuses 6 – 30 amp, fuse 19 - 30 amp. My 1995 Corrado “does not”/”never has” run the aux. pump unless either the ignition is on, engine running or not or….. when the ignition is turned off AND the engine is hot, ie. the yellow sensor has tripped on. In the latter condition it runs, as soon as the ignition is switched off, the rad fan and aux pump until the yellow thermo switch trips off. Turning the ignition on & off does not trip the pump on when the engine is cold. .

001 OK, no it isn't using that option, ADP does not apply, not that VAG-COM option. The Corrado VR6 doesn't have a motorised throttle in standard factory issued form. Select group 001 in basic settings mode, all electrical loads off (rad fan permitted), push the throttle to 3,000 rpm and hold for 2 to 3 seconds, then release and let idle for 2 minutes minimum from start of idle, don't touch the throttle, then exit basic settings with rad fan not running after 2 minute mark is pasted. Job done. ADP is post August 1995 VR6 engines - no Corrado VR6 factory fit engines with this type of set-up. Idle is fixed by ECU. .

Gavin, It was "mixture" pointing to the airflow potentiometer, no other fault codes. Knock sensors OK. Rev to the engine to see if it was immediate but it wasn't so cleared the fault down & advised to run a day or two and re-investigate as VAG-COM wasn't showing anything else. See if the fault returns. ECU diagnosis too basic but it generally wasn't pointing to a problem in that area. Good idea to make sure the basics above are OK and go from a level playing field. Chris .

Dutch, Glad to hear there is progress. Aux. Pump – On the yellow temp sensor in the thermostat housing, short out pins 1 & 4 with the ignition off. That’s the red/black wire to brown/green (early cars are brown/red to brown). The rad fan should run (not full blast though) and so should the aux. pump. If not there’s a controller fault. If they do run, then the yellow temp gauge/run-on fan switch is suspect on the switch part. The third fan stage wires/sender should not affect the circuit as they run off the “X” relief circuit (igniton on only). Normally if the engine is too warm after stopping the engine, turning off the ignition with this condition should run the rad fan normally and the aux. pump until the yellow sensor switch turns off. So I wouldn’t expect an aux. pump only. Otherwise the pump is just circulating uncooled hot coolant. The choice on the third stage sender is either refit a 2 pin plug or a 2 pin sender. In going the plug way, you may destroy the little pins and so have hassle re-pinning the wire ends, so I would tend to put a new 2 pin sender in. Chris .

I expecting to see you Sunday to talk about this one. It's funny but the bhp plot follows exactly a "AAA" engine (2.8ltr) bhp factory dyno plot to a tee all the way up and over the top. Low end torque is up a bit - build variation only though. What is it supposed to be chipped with? Is it physically there inside the ECU? What is running through my mind is that it's a 2.8ltr block not rebored and thats why you are struggling with it (despite the receipt). And also why it runs so well. .

Yes. The Knowledge Base Wiki procedure file is now sorted to make it more easily followed. You will need a registered version of VAG-COM. .