RW1

Small bulbs. Turn the illumination dimmer down and the switches illuminate slowly, not instantly. .

I get everywhere :wink: I don't think it will solve this problem though. ISV..... .

Is that when you take a tipple or wash the screen? It's like neat alcohol in the bottle. Try putting a match to a little (and stand well clear!). .

It's not that one on EBAY about 2 weeks ago Stan?? Fits the description. Part number for block & piston repair set - 021 103 101A £2,025ish incl VAT Crank 021 105 101L £1,250 inc VAT. Then add a bit more for shells and sundries, say £250 ish. Thats the rebuild cost aka VW prices before labour. .

Position nearest the oil cooler in the picture on the righthand side. .

Yip, here you go. Never for sale officially and I think one dealer still has theirs. On the main point, Karmann made so many "prototypes" it's hard to know what they got upto. eg. 50 Scirocco Mk2 Turbos in 1981 Made 50, scrapped 49 and VW put one in the museum at Wolfsburg. Scrapped cos it only did 17mpg but had a 145bhp delivery (euro) 124bhp (USA). A Karmann habit of proposing.... .

Endorse that one but it is out of print. (Ebay??) It's not the current Passat version that is 1988 - 1993?? Thats a different book. .

Hmmm.. I think you need to look at the ISV again if no faults are stored for engine sensors... .

Dual gauge is a 10 bar sender unless you've got other ideas. .

For future proofing, buy a lead with an electronic isolation interface, not the optical version. Optical versions won't work with later versions of VAG-COM ie v4.09 and above. For Corrado either type of interface will work on a VR6/8v but the 16v has defo to be the electronic isoaltion type interface for the 16v engine ECU. Almost certain unless a 1993 registered late in early 1994 year plate. .

The another one to the checklist is an air leak between the MAF and engine (weak mixture). Split in the corrigated bit ain't unknown. Not applicable to Corrado VR6 unless you've used alternative parts from a post 1995 donor engine system. It's about altering values in a module (ECU) when the facility exists within that module. Dangerous area on some modules unless you know the channels to use and correct codes to input as some modules are not formally documented. Forget to take note of ALL the settings before a change and you could get in a right mess. Here's a good standard engine to compare at idle. Throttle angle is in spec. ISV duty cycle looks to be out from what I've seen on various VR6s. Use the info from Kev & others centred on the ISV. .

Not a VW item in my case. Hand crafted unit from electronic fibreglass PCB board. Have templates for both early and new dash styles as they are slightly different. VW's one for two separate gauges goes in the storage at the bottom where the dual gauge goes. .

Seems pretty good Stan on what I paid 3 years ago. Almost that on the gauge unit alone at GPC. This has me thinking. It seems cheap for a sender unless it's the type that has only a single connection and no built in pressure swtich. If its the pressure gauge sender only connection type, then you are going to need the banjo connector and two compression ring seals. Parts 035 103 715 - 1 off, N 013 806 4 = 2 off. The oil pressure switch will have to be re-used. If it's the dual pole gauge sender & pressure switch combined, then the sender goes straight in the nearside front position oil pressure switch position and the switch wire goes to the "WK" connection on the sender, "G" being the gauge connection. .

Der bit your plant you bum on. Push the front of it at the rear footwell wall back & up. It's secured on a sort of metal stake in the centre. eg. http://carsguide.news.com.au/news/story ... 86,00.html "Rear passengers will appreciate the head room, thanks to the straight roof line, the ample legroom and the generous seat squab that comes out all the way to the back of your knees.". .

Yeah, I suspect this but the relay is an easy first call before stripping the seat. .

Walesy, 1st it needs NT4 or W2000 or XP professional to run. So unless your system is one of these, you ain't on the starting blocks. Doesn't cover anything much on Corrado (only VR6 engine) and only really starts in full on any post 1996 cars. .

No not the left back. Windows is right hand rear back. Left rear back is the two seat heating relays. (Edit: slow dial up, doh :( ) Sounds like the driver's one doesn't like the heating element or has gone faulty. Take out the rear left rear passenger seat squab and the relays are there at the bottom of the side panel trim panel. The relays are "intelligent" inside for the thermostatic control. Swap them over and see if the buzzing moves. If not it's the seat heating element or thermal control element in the seat has gone in some way, if it moves with the relay - relay - part 443 019 533A. .

I think Dave said they were made of stainless steel when I bought mine from him cos I was thinking they needed a coat of paint as they come bare metal. Same opening principle applies though otherwise something else will give in the outer handle. If you "lock" the door lock mechanism while the door is open and watch the how far the handle comes out before the lock mechanism springs open, its about 60% of the full travel of the handle. So there isn't much scope for the handle to release the lock before you are pulling the door with the handle. .

Steve, Hope it has girdle straps for the windy days to stop it ballooning itself off. And put large black bin liners fully over the wheels to stop splash up onto the discs. Trap them under tyres against the road/drive surface. Not sure about this particular cover but the Cover Systems one I got (similar by the loks of it) was advertised as out door. The silver finish was for UV protection but it still breathed a fine dust onto the paintwork. Check it and you may need once a month on a dry fine day to take off and clean the car. Cheers Chris .

It really happens cos peeps don't open the door as designed! Correct way is thumb on door key bit and then use your fingers to force the handle outwards with your thumb still on the key lock. Then open the door while you have the handle held in the open position. What peeps do is pull the handle only, that is effectively pulling on a locked door as the mechanism hasn't released. So the bit that we all know & love breaks, cos not only is it put under the normal load to unlock, it also has to take the increased load of a lock mechanism being partly jammed due to the peeps pulling it outward before it has chance to release. The other thing is to apply some aerosol grease carefully to the mechanism. Drop the window fully and look down in the back corner of the window slot. Pull the handle and you will see the mechanism work. Put the grease here on the hinge parts but do avoid putting it into the window felt guide groove or on the glass. I quite agree the door handle mechanism is a poor design but if used correctly as describe above with the thumb on the key lock, the door opens very easily. Dave16v is the wizard on here making the door repair lock kits. The Ebay ones tend to be Germany sourced. .

Both clips are regular used on seats, accelerator pedal arms as well as the cable gearchange on both Audi's & VW. For an early / late type clip, take the split at pre'94 and post'94 for gear change but it's not really as clean as that for other parts using the parts as retaining clips on stub ends. .

Resistance is 1.2kohm +/- 300 ohms for a good sensor. .

Can you still open the passenger window with the driver's door opened, ignition off? (With either the passenger side or driver's side switch.) If so, just check your driver's door pin switch in the pillar wall has both brown/white wire connected and they are being earth by the pin switch contacts (dual switch). If this is OK, then I would try a replacement window controller, 191 959 875. Common to all Corrados and a lot of other VW's so a scrapyard will have more than likely one knocking about. .

Fools every one new to rear discs on VW's....... Should always with rear disc braked cars anyway and turn the front wheels to the kerb when relevant. It may be that the handbrake levers on the rear calipers where the cables couple up are partly siezed. Good enough for traffic but don't move enough to compensate for cooling of the brakes when parked up. I think your's will be the Mk2 type caliper which are prone to this seizing problem. You may be able to "work" them free but usually replacement and then think about using Mk3 or Mk4 type calipers (Use search for other relevant topics). .

Dom's right but the gauges don't light up the pointer needles. There are 52mm VDO Cockpit Vision Gauges that give the same night time visual effect I posted up early in this topic. Exactly the same but in a round gauge. (The mounting panel illustrated is not VW's part, that goes where the cassette holder is.) .