RW1

Hi Dutch, With the weather being cold, I'd just drive it for 5 minutes at 40kph or so to get the oil temp down to some lower level like town driving readings. It's not as though its a hot day these days. Just don't abruptly halt the engine at top temperature. Chris

Thats the warning as it does really gulp fuel. That said, just bridge the two contacts in the connector. Very crude fuelling really. .

If you mean the fault memory that VAG-COM looks at, then it will loose the fault codes on loosing 12 volt power. If you mean testing the ECU on a repairer's workbench, then that is down to how good their set up is and will only test the ECU itself internally. .

I notice that it's got a relay loom. Some bulbs can weld the relay contacts so even when the ignition is off, headlight switch off, the battery is still switched through. Tap the relay loom relays to free but it will occur again. .

Thats one way. That you should be able to measure with a DVM and get closed circuit. The other is open circuit all the time even when cold in which case it would drive badly in the first 3 to 5 minutes due to weak mixture. If the 5th injector was working all the time, you notice better acceleration but the fuel tank gauge would be moving visibly to empty fairly quickly. Plugs, not too much. They would go more golden, not thick black. Exhaust would not be that noticable cos remember it's only injecting petrol when the engine accelerating, not cruising. .

It's to do with the operation of the cold start valve. Until the engine is partially warm (35'C), this thermo switch is made and therefore the cold start injector (5th injector - blue connection on inlet manifold) injects additional fuel on start and when acceleration is demanded on the accelerator pedal. Once past 35'C, the thermo-switch open circuits preventing the Cold Start Injector working and all further enrichment is via the vacuum connection on the warm-up regulator on the KR engine - 1.8ltr 16v at normal running temperatures. .

Hmmm… very frustrating. Here’s the wire to the cabin fan control switch. 5 in total at the switch. Is that a clue??? To a missing trapped wire? “Where does the live come from?? ” - It should be connected to the switch – pin 2! Cabin Fan Controller Switch wires: Black/Yellow - +12 volts ignition White - Fan speed 1 Yellow/Black - Fan speed 2 Yellow - Fan speed 3 White/Yellow - Fan speed 4 At fan motor end: (Additional wires not at Fan Control Switch end) Brown – Earth. ----- Internally, fan motor has Red - +12 volts, Brown – earth. Not on fuse 6 but to avoid confusion, Grey/Blue wire is +12 volts illumination, Thin Brown wire – earth for illumination only. .

Thats the original standard. Try searching some of the German web sites. Someone will have done it. Or get hold of a UK box... .

Quite agree, somewhere between 1988 & 1991. Here it is in its full glory. Prototyped in a Scirocco and intended for the Scirocco as well but one wonders what then would have had to do the the chassis to take the power/torque. It was a 2.4 ltr 24v affair developing 175bhp. Bad on low end pull which is why it went to 2.8/2.9ltr capacity. .

It was prototyped as the RV6. Looked slightly different. .

Yeah, Gunk can be pretty sharp stuff in neat form - seem to remember someone saying it should be diluted with water in the less stubborn areas. I ended up using Autoglym's version from Halfords. Very impressed with where it was used. Got the job done and no tarnishing of the black paint. Even softened with little effort, the engine plastic stuff Karmann spray on the engine bay at the factory. About £7 a large squirty bottle full. It should do an engine bay in total. .

Simple switch/wire/bulb/earth circuit. Check bulbs for short. As Steve has said, trapped wire. What was fiddled with before if started. If nothing - bulbs. .

If this turns to tears (which I hope not) there are two 52mm separate gauges that VDO do with the exact same style of night time illumination. An I have a design for using them in the ashtray location. .

Stripped thread procedures. Jam something in and see if you can ease them out. Reverse drill them out. etc......... They are only done upto 8Nm (6 lb ft). So quite likely some one has ******* :ignore: them. EDIT: Censored for the youngsters viewing hour.

Maybe not. Wrong position. The oil filter housing position is closed circuit (made) when engine running. Works the buzzer in the dash by detecting the engine above 2,000 rpm-ish has pushed the switch closed. Your sender is going open under this condition. Cylinder head is open circuit when running. It can only be fitted in the cylinder head switch position if you want to use the switch part of the sender. Also, sender will work but if 5 bar used with 10 bar gauge then readings are incorrect and same for vice-versa. .

Bridge relay 12!! Marked "167", bottom row, right hand side corner. The pins are the 30 to 87 positions on the fuse / relay panel. It does mean the fuel pump is running all the time as this is bridging in the battery 12 volts not ignition 12 volts. It would be better not to do this as fuel will be pumped all the time. More difficult to do. Alternatively run a 12 volt ignition supply capable of at least 20amps load to the fuel pump relay connection pin marked 87 where the pushes into the relay fuse panel. That way at least you can turn the fuel off with the ignition key still and it will allow you to drive the car without flooding it. The only source for this with current carrying capacity is a white plug on the back of the relay fuse panel, bottom row. The middle white one. Pin 4 should have a fairly thick Black wire which will take the electrical load. Check it with a meter for ignition +12 volts before tapping in. Relays on fuse panel by drivers knee behind the removable small pocket shelf. Yes the thing like a small hip flask. .

Just seen recently Butterfly's Solitude wheels after refurb by Pristine in Milton Keynes. Definitely the place to send. Until she said they had been done, they passed inspection very well. Only upon very close up are the give aways that they have been done but colour was spot on. .

Yeah, too much for that going down. No fault codes makes it hard but I would be interested in eliminating the MAF. Details are too sketchy TBH. .

Found it Dom. It's an exchange engine ECU of some sort at £363.26 to you and me. Hidden amongst service parts for contract hire vehicles. .

It's not a recognisable part number but 997 suggests a "repair kit" part number. Although it still a little strange for that sort of part. VR6 ECUs new for the C. are more or less finished stock wise and the price is a hell of a lot higher. .

That's because the VW techie gets parts from his Parts Man. Parts Man packs up the kit according to the job card at the dealer. Parts Man packs one matrix and one foam strip 701 819 069. VW Techie works to job card which says put foam tightly round edge of matrix and fit. End of story. Not quite. Joe Public comes in and asks for a heater matrix. Parts Man not having much Mb in top department doesn't tell Joe he needs the foam. Doh! :lol: .

When you get there, here's the gen..... Corrado Combined Oil and Volt Instrument VDO Gauge Original Fit Equipment Parts List for RHD Corrado (UK): Combined Oil & Voil Meter Gauge - 536 919 527 £131 at GPC in 2001 (No longer available) VDO Oil Pressure Sender 0 – 10bar range with combined oil pressure switch £40 - £60 depending on source. 4 pin connector housing – 1J0 972 704 About £1.75 Repair wires for connector housing, 4 off – 000 979 133 £1 each. (yellow with crimped connectors) In-line fuse holder and 3-amp blade fuse (smallest easily available, 2-amp is lowest value made but hard to find). Maplin do a suitable blade fuse holder. ------------------- Gauge has four connections: a) Connection to oil pressure sender output. b) Dash illumination +12 volts supply. c) +12 volts from either battery direct via 3 amp fuse (permanently on) or +12 volts ignition (switched). d) Earth. ------------------- Installation Notes: The oil pressure sender is fitted in place of the cylinder head pressure switch as the logic of the switc part of the sender is “pressure to break”. The oil pressure switch wire is fitted to the sender switch connection. The other terminal, oil sender pressure signal is connected to the gauge in the passenger cabin. The night time illumination is sourced from the cigarette lighter illumination. The wire Grey/Blue wire is the +12 volts illumination. Tap into this using a ScotchLoc. The earth connection is again sourced from the cigarette lighter illumination. The Brown wire is the earth. Tap into this using a ScotchLoc. The 12 volts supply can either be sourced as permanent +12 volts so that the battery condition can always be seen. Or it can switched when the ignition is turned on. For the battery +12 volts, run a wire to the battery +ve terminal. It is recommended that this feed be fused using an in-line fuse holder and 3-amp fuse. Going direct to the battery takes away the influence of electrical loads. If the +12 volts supply is connected to the fuse/relay panel, electrical loads influence and distort the voltage readings. Alternative, the ignition +12 volts can be sourced from Glove Box supply wire, a Black/Yellow wire. This is the VW method but be aware that electrical loads may influence the voltage readings leading to incorrect indications. The 4 repair wires 000 979 133 should be pushed into the connection plug shell 1J0 972 704. This will ensure a good connection at all times and no likelihood of an electrical short of the adjacent pins (if the connections were made “loose”). Connect up as per the labelling embossed on the back of the instrument to the Corrado’s wires above. For ease of removal, it may be wise to introduce a 4 way plug break connection – see photo. Also in the photographs is a 3KHz tone lights ON reminder buzzer (Maplin sourced). This is connected to the headlight switch loom wire Grey/Red at the headlight switch. As this is a full +12 volts at all times, it will ensure the buzzer sounds whereas if on the dash dimmer control, may not work at lower than full brightness. ---------------- .

I don't think it was meant to be a reminder but a warning, subtle difference. To quote the flight handbook - " When the side lights are on, a warning lamp lights up in the switch." There is a relay available for the panel that does that but it wasn't becoming on a Corrado :). Cheap buzzer noise. Goof item but no wiring on C for it. Yer meant to eat your carrots Stan and notice the shimmer as you get out. Mind you, having fitted LEDs in the switch on mine, you can't miss it now - day or night. Any one know if the Ford chime noise one is a separate part? Well without that guy, the C would have been chopped even earlier by VW. You should be thankful to him! :lol: . .

Logic is correct as the ring is a sidelights only ON warning ring indication. So with/without ignition on in the sidelight position you get the ring. On headlights, it works only when ignition is knocked off, ignition off, knocks off the headlights, so the sidelights only warning ring comes on illuminates. Clever little diode buried deep inside the switch. The Lamp symbol is always on when the ignition is on no matter whether the lights are on or not. Switch locator illumination. Its in the owners handbook. :wink: .

Just reverse your photo at the start of this topic. Curved side is on the opposite hand etc. That's all it is. Will be a baaaad fit and look odd as the RHD for the UK cars ( and vice versa) is a snug fit. Hmmm - thats bad luck, another Storm batch pricing scandal on Ebay then? .