RW1

Clutch reservoir feed is a pipe about halfway up the side wall. The reservoir must be kept filled above this point and the top shoulder "V" mark. .

The sensor connections are a bit sensitive to moisture. Damaged casing won't help!

No. But it wouldn't surprise me given the age, higher mileage/useage & heat that it has happened. Problem with all rubbery things under the bonnet on all cars really as they get older. Mother's Type 3 fastback went up in flames that way years ago (12 year old car) when the rubber feed hose split between the pump and carbs. .

Also check the small pipe connection onto the fuel rail pressure regulator at the nearside front of the inlet manifold. (Subject to recall in USA as clips allow weepage). .

Sunroof seals DO leak slightly but it's meant to seep into the surrounding catch channels. All part of the design. However, it is possible for the seal's gripping "U" part onto the steel roof edge lip to leak by capilliary action. The water goes round the "U" grip/sunroof metal lip and ends up on the inside face of the sunroof panel. Then it drips onto the inner liner panel and soaks it. It means taking the sunroof panel out and removing the felt seal surround. Putting in a little grease (bearing grease will do) into the "U" grip part of the sunroof seal and on the sunroof panel lip edge. Using something that sets like Gasket Seal will leak again with time as in the summer the roof being heated by the sun will expand /contract and break the sealant, grease will remain flexible longer. It just needs a smear on the metal lip and the seal grip as it goes on. There isn't listed any sealant from VW but every sunroof seal I've removed has evidence of something being used (10 - 15 years and it will have perished). Then refit the seal. This will stop the water capiliary action onto the inside of the panel. It's messy but does work. .

Create turbulance which then deflects the Black Flies (USA) off the screen in the direct vision path of the driver and passenger. Black Flies was as I understood it the reason for these covers in the USA states affected by the seasonal problem. Somebody States Side will chirp up soon with the detail background. .

It was an optional extra on both the 16v & G60 certianly for 1990 - 1992 cloth seats. .

Cheers Mr Wales. "Yeah, I was amazed at the headlight sizes as you noticed at Utterly " And that was without my glasses on Dom! Yeah, market/shipping timing off the production lines. .

Three wires on the oil filter housing top. Two at front left & right are oil pressure switches. Back off-side is oil temp. Oil pressure gauge should be screwed in to the near-side pressure switch position. It's a tight fit as the thread is interference fit and only just tightens down to being leak proof just before the sender contacts the top of the oil filter housing. Removed oil pressure switch sender wire goes to "WK". "G" to gauge "G" connection. .

Not quite, 1992's has the big bonnet at the end of their production run. .

The pics are a good illustration of all the changes but it wasn't just in one go. It's like very early, later early, early later & late later. The year ranges being 1988 - 1990, 1990 - 1991, 1991 - 1994 & 1994 - 1995. Each point a subtle shave of change and you need to have a fine eye to see it. For instance, the pics show the wing change, look at the bulge on the arch above the wheel. The early is more shallow. The bumper is angles slightly differently, not a photo effect, the early car looks narrower. There's three headlight standards, another change where the slope of the glass changes very fractionally but put an early in a very late and it's obvious. (This where it gets scary for Dom :wink:) .

Either out of position or burnt contacts usually. .

For a 1.8ltr 16v........ Blue/white is oil pressure gauge sender signal. Yellow is oil pressure 1.8bar for led & buzzer in dash clocks module - normally closed under pressure (main bearings). Blue/black oil pressure 0.3bar for led & buzzer in dash module - normally open under pressure (cylinder head). Green/black is oil temperature sender signal. --------- "G" on dual pole oil pressure sender is the signal wire connection to the gauge. "WK" is connected to the Blue/Black wire. (This is a 0.3 to 0.5bar normally open under pressure switch.) WK connection should short to the sender body if tested off the engine. It cannot be connected to the Yellow wire as the dash module logic will set off the buzzer and oil pressure LED as the module on this wire is looking for a pressure switch that has gone closed circuit when oil pressure is present and WK goes open circuit when under pressure. The oil pressure switch connected to the Blue/Black wire is removed and the oil pressure sender is substituted. --------------- The module logic works like this..... As the engine runs it looks at both switch conditions along with rpm & time. The 0.3 bar goes closed circuit for loss of oil pressure and the dash oil pressure module works as an instant response to the switch closing ie. loss of oil pressure at the cylinder head. Loss of oil pressure is detected, the buzzer and oil pressure LED come on as long as the condition is being detected. The 1.8bar switch goes open circuit for loss of oil pressure and the module senses this must be happening at about 2,000rpm & above (main bearing oil pressure loss). It waits for about 20 seconds to see if the low oil pressure condition is transitory. If still low after about 20 seconds, it activates the buzzer & dash oil pressure LED. They stay on even if the oil pressure improves and can only be reset by turning off the ignition (temporarily) ie. you ain't suppose to run the engine again until the problem is found - check oil level, if still there at above 2,000 rpm & 20 seconds, don't run the engine again until examined by a mechanic. .

Have you checked all fuses + are all relays pushed home on the relay panel? Not a coil/key reader problem as it would at least fire sa said. .

Here we go.............. ye of little faith :lol: .

I got pulled into a mobile MoT test station, bit like a Grand Prix with 5 of them jumping at the car to do the tyres, exhaust and lights. Got a pink warning ticket...... 3D letters. Unless it has changed in the revised leaflet V796 ( the defining plate size & shapes, layout, spacing and font document ) since 1999, it's solid black only. The plates were only a day old as well although they replaced old ones with 3D which had passed at least 5 MoTs. Mr Plod present as a minder to my pit team was very helpful with his expert guidance.

Erm, no - it's a microswitch in the offside part of the tailgate lock. It cab be just seen by looking up into the lock body when the tailgate is raised. It goes open circuit as the lock "hook" part as it's pushed back by the lower body lip square securing bracket when the hatch locks. It's the usual thing to go or it is misfitted. Dealer item, part number begins with 333 947 561. .

Simple switch circuit. Switch is only moving part. 12volts - Bulb - Switch - earth. Only other possibility is that the wire between the bulb and switch has shorted to the body due to fretting. Most likely place is the rubber gaiter on left side where cables go into the roof from the hatch. .

Yeah, but the 462A is 512, on 1996 - 1997 Golfs etc., 462 is 504 on the Corrado, so 512 is not a CP related MAF but apparently works OK for someone on here. I can't remember but didn't your MAF come off a Golf '97. If so, I've just bought one off a G'97 and its a 462A. 461's have the alphabet of suffices and thats why I had ????. .

The ignition trigger passes through the ECU so the ECU must be set to fully advanced as an internal design value and then the electronics adjust it by delta retardation to suit according to the two knock sensor's feedback. And I don't see any link of Engine ECU to ABS ECU other than the diagnostic bus common wires. Coolant temp is Grp 00, field 1, revs are on field 3 but scaling as you will find is not a direct readout and a factor has to be applied plus it won't be accurate as the readings are truncated. .

Excuse for hitching back as I went for a cup of tea and things seemed to have wandered on.............. Think that about sums it up. The dizzy & coil pack are very different beasts besides the MAF itself. Quite a few wires to change/not use/add. ECU drives the coil pack direct to add to the list although may not be relevant depending of conversion depth. For camshaft position sender read hall effect sender in the dizzy. Also, I've found the hot film MAF (OBD1) more sensitive to oily filters like K&N causing "chugging" and now run on a plain old VW filter which are changed out regularly at 10,000 miles. Admittedly the car is standard but it’s the same MAF at less airflow rates. VAG-COM can't override the key immobiliser otherwise every thief would be equipped with it! Unless you get the matched immobiliser/keys with the donor "CP" ECU, you are at the mercy of the dealers to hook your motor to the VAS5051 and dial Southern Germany on the GEKO system. No code is visible to the garage and they can't do it by hand/fax/telephone anymore or refuse to point blank (issue with who owns the car under data protection at present and right to codes) as this was all stopped in 2002. (If you see Ebay ads for software to do this, its for second and third generation immobilisers, none of which were fitted with the Corrado "CP" ECU circuitry). Bottom line as Kev says........ Not impossible but…… not a Sunday afternoon & dun though. I'm still looking for a spare "CP" ECU after six years as only about 2,000 exist worldwide and it’s unique to the Corrado. MAF…… 021 906 462 (Bosch 0 280 217 504) goes with the “CP” but I seem to remember someone on here buying in error a 021 906 462A (Bosch 0 280 217 512) MAF and saying the stock Corrado with “CP” ECU worked and was better (debatable as there was a MAF fault). 461’s are all hot wire MAFs I think??? .

Summary: 16v 9A 2.0ltr Corrado Understand first that there is more than one “brain”. When coupling up to the diagnostics, you are coupling upto a data bus on which hangs the individual ECUs. There are upto 4 ECU’s possible on a 2.0ltr 9a 16v Corrado – Engine, Autobox (see notes below for UK), ABS & Key Immbiliser (See notes below for application). 9A 16v Engine ECU. Reads: Lambda Probe, Coolant Temperature, 2 x Knock Sensors, Hall Ignition sender & Firing Point Sender, Airflow Potentiometer in the Airflow head, Idle & Full Throttle switches. Controls: Idle Stabilisation Valve, signals the ignition module to fire. ---------------- To access the Engine ECU on the Corrado’s data bus, the PC isolating interface needs to be electrically isolated. Optical interfaces will not work. Secondly, the initial interrogation baud rate must be 4,800 baud for initial interrogation or the ECU chokes. To clear the choked ECU, back fully out of VAG-COM, switch the ignition off, pause, switch the ignition back on and re-enter the ECU at 4,800 baud rate. VAG-COM can be preset to this data bus speed. The ECU is simple in operation. It has a defined set of fault codes in accordance with those used elsewhere on VAG cars but only those relevant to the engine, eg. 00515 – Hall Sender but be aware of differences using the same terminology! The Hall Sender G40 in the VR6 this is the Camshaft Position Sender, while in the 2.0ltr 16v it is the Hall Effect Sender in the Distributor. There are less fault codes programmed into the engine ECU than the VR6 as the engine electronic sensors & switches are fewer in number. There is only one set of measuring blocks on group 00. It consists of 10 fields for Coolant Temp., Engine Load, Engine Speed, Idle Stabilisation, Lambda interrogation, Lambda adaption, Road Speed signal, Switch position condition - various, Calculated Ignition Firing point. These are all fields with values where a prescribed action sequence generates a number that has to be compared with a specification for that field to pass or fail relevant to the test. So unlike the VR6 ECU, they don’t resemble anything sensible, just a set of numbers jiggling about as the engine runs. 9A 16V - ABS, Autobox & Key Immobiliser ECUs 9A 16V ABS, Autobox & Key Immobiliser ECUs can all be interrogated with either an optical or electrically isolated PC interface & cable. The interrogation speed is ideally 9,600 baud rate but these units don’t choke if the wrong speed is used initially. VAG-COM will find them eventually on the data bus. The ABS is without traction control but otherwise it uses the same components generating a similar subset of fault codes as the VR6. The Autobox option is obvious, if it isn’t fitted, nothing to interrogate. In the UK, this option doesn’t appear to have officially been offered to customers but the Autobox does exist for this engine and was fitted to the UK 8v engine Corrados. The faults codes are the normal set. The Autobox ECU has to be “adapted” to the Engine ECU & Throttle Position Sender otherwise it will “jump” gears on auto change. ie. 1 to 3, 4 to 2. The Key Immobiliser is only fitted to post October 1994 (chassis 50SK000719 onwards) – June 1995 (end of production) made Corrados. Very few fault codes. One group (Grp 001) of measuring block fields associated with seeing the key on engine start. .

There is nothing linked to the engine or anything I can see that would do it obviously. Spoiler is the only obvious candidate but why only under hard acceleration does not make sense. I just wonder if there is a loose wire somewhere that manages to swing and touch when the car is pushed. The rest of the circuits is just as you say plus all the dash illumination points including the glove box light. And the radio's ignition feed is linked to the fused circuit. .

The spoiler also hangs off that circuit if it's fuse No.16?? .