RW1

EKTA orders parts. .

EKTA was/is subcontracted to LEXCOM in 1996 and was the first VW parts application & lists. LEXCOM own the programme which is why they chase. They did other manufacturers as well. ETOS is a newer VW owned parts application & lists with other frills. .

Hi Chris, As above: Relay 10 Fogs only, nothing else hanging on that circuit. Relay 11 Horn only, nothing else. No common power rails, 10 is on battery “30” and 11 is on ignition “15”. Both use the common rail earth inside the fuse/relay panel for earth side of control circuit so if there was a main problem with the panel, all the relays would be chattering. Relay 12 has no impact on 10 or 11. 191 906 383C is just a later ECU fuel pump relay standard for all Corrados currently. Previous suffix’s superseded. The only difference in these relays (identical relay parts) is that they are switched differently. The horn relay 11 is permanent connected to power and earthed by the horn pad when the horns are needed. Where as the headlight switch applies 12 volts to relay 10 so that fog lights can be powered when sidelights only or sidelights and headlights are on. The earth side of the relay is permanently connected to earth. Therefore I would suspect that relay 10 is chattering given the reliability of the headlight switch in the Corrado. Your’s isn’t shot is it??? If so, the “off” position it could be supplying 12 volts to the fog relay 10 due to the engine rough vibration as it gets started. Nothing would be apparent at the fog lights cos the fog switches isolates the supply to the lamps after the relay but before the lights. Pull each relay 10 & 11 in turn and see if it’s both or one and the other can be felt. Always difficult to know which is switching on as the one next to it can feel as though it has switched. If relay 11 was chattering, I’d expect to you’d hear the horn whimper. Cheers Chris .

Fuses can tire. It may be that the current draw just topped it good & true. If it blows soon, then look at the fan bearing again. Hope not :) .

Its a thermal fuse. Therefore it reacts to heat! Should not be soldered but crimped tightly only. No other electrics on this circuit fuse. Straight wire from fuse to fan swtich then onto the resistor pack. Take the fan unit out and check it still spins freely? Maybe in cleaning ut something has now jammed. As Steve says, thermal fuse may have gone cos it's been weakened by you soldering it. With 5 way plug off the fan unit. See if 12 volts is on all 4 coloured wires relative the brown wire when the fan switch is moved 1 thro 4. That confirms the switched volts are OK or not. If not, investigate the wires back across the dash to the swtich and then the single black /red stripe wire back to the fuse box. .

Mark, Kev, 2 connectors………… 6 way immobiliser plug: Pin 1 Black wire goes back of fuse/relay panel to a connection that goes live with 12 volts ignition. Pin 2 Grey/white wire goes to grey/white pin 43 on the ECU connector via ECU loom (VR6 Motronic ECUs). Pin 3 Grey/white (or Grey only wire) wire goes to an adapter T2b - pin 2 forward of the gear stick inside the lower dash beyond where the centre console finishes, then on as a common wire to Pin 7 (grey/white wire) on the 16 way ODB2 connector in the gear shift. Pin 4 Brown wire to chassis earth. Pin 5 Not Connected. Pin 6 Brown wire to chassis earth, common’d with pin 4 in the loom (instrument loom) and usually uses an earth by the driver’s door pillar. 3 way plug: All three are the key sensor in the steering column in a shiny black cable. ------------ Kev., In the case of the Goof, there is a separate fuel shut off valve connection from the 6 way connector pin 2 (Goofs 1994 to 1997 only). But I can't find evidence of it in European lists and it does not wire into the fuel pump relay circuit, it's a separate component. I don’t think this connection needs to be made, it’s an option for some markets. .

Sounds like this is the 1994/1996 Conlog 900 Logic fitted by VW dealers. Was Cat 1 full mony but delisted 5 years ago at Thatcham. Master fob has red lens (needed for reprogramming) but slaves have white/clear lens in the fob. Hard to program the 900 slaves unlike the later 950 replacement. .

VWCCGB badges made about 1997 I think. Loads sold or given away. Can't remember how many made, a few hundred. .

P. Only 3 days but it was off the road most of October with problems. Did get out in it last Saturday. Fuel Pump relay is the one on the bottom row next to the door marked 167. Part number 191 906 383C C.

Reckon the damage was done after the car finally stopped. The engine must have been glowing like an electric fire! .

Oh yes, saw this last week. Competition! What do you think her maximum speed was during the journey? .

The fact the car engine is not starting at all, even for 0.5 second means it's most likely not the key immobiliser. It may still be a bad connection for the alarm immobilisation. Depends how the alarm has been used to isolate the car circuits. Too tight, he would be meaning behind the fuse/relay panel. It's all a very tight bundle directly behind their and a rats nest of tricks. .

Take th efan out from the passenger side under dash. It may be the bottom bearing needs looking at. A bit of light bearing grease will help. Surprised the thermal fuse is holding out. Also while in their, check what sort of "12 volts" supply is across the fans contacts in the connector, brown wire ( earth ) to ??, when the fan switch is switched on. .

Reading from lamp earth to chassis earth or chassis to battery earth pole? It means the lamp's "earth" connection ain't true chassis earth somewhere and your bulbs only have say 12.5 volts across them not 13.8 volts. What you have measured is the voltage across the bulbs - engine/gearbox - battery earth. There could be a voltage across the engine/gearbox earth path of say 1.3 volts and 12.5 volts across the bulb. Cos you've measured with reference to the battery, the meter see 12.5 + 1.3 = 13.8 volts. Only 12.5 across the bulb, so it would be dimmer. If do have some sort of volts in the range 0.5 to 2.0 volts between the earth measurement points, you need to start looking for a poor connection of some sort. It could be the chassis somewhere or it could be a crimp in the loom end connections at the relay or lamp. If this checks out OK, as said, the reflectors must be mirror silvered finished not tarnished & dullish. .

Naa, a little bit maybe but it's a few quid only....... £50 at most for knocking off an hour. Underdash out, get at the box, refit new box, same in steering column for the sender, recode th ekeys, put all trim back = 2 hours. Add one hour cos "haven't seen a Corrado in years - ermmm". Good estimate really. P. is talking about the keys recoded + sensor + the box inside the dash. Parts in total are £130. Plus labour for 3 hours at £50/hr for fitting and key recoding then + VAT = £320. Is correct ball court to expect. The Coil is £35 but it's the box of tricks that costs another £100. Anyways, don't think it's this. dr_mat is most likely but cos of the cost, just worth changing the ECU relay "109" in case it is playing up. .

How did you measure the voltage reading? Across the bulb contacts? Or are you referencing the 12 volt bulb connection to the car's chassis earth? Check lamp earth across to chassis earth with your meter while the lights are on and see what voltage reading exists. Ideally it should be 0 volts. If there is a difference, start looking at the earth connections - batt to chassis; chassis to loom mod, etc. .

I was doing some homework tonight so the grey cells are still active :) The system is hand shaking. The transponder immobiliser looks at the key, tells the ECU to go. Also both ECU & transponder box handshake digitally, not a pulse unless you mean a burst of comms. Once the engine ECU/ T Box OK it. they go to sleep until the engine stops. Initially the engine fires as the hand shake takes longer and that would be unacceptable to crank the engine a few of seconds so it's the inverse, start and shut down if failure occurrs which is why the Corrado starts, revs for 0.5 second and dies when it all generates failed starting handshake. Decoder is in the ECU as well other wise the car can be hot started as they once tried with mine ("CP" ECU). None "CP" don't need a key in the steering column (chipped or not) to be started. .

ECU - Transponder & key. Yes they do have to be coded for your car P. Only one way now is the dealers with 7 didgit code & date & dealer code & country code via their GEKO system. Techie won't see what gets programmed. If you have the 4 digit code from a few years back, thats differnt, VAG-COM can do it. .

Ah the fog clears! No probs. .

:lol: Eyeball it today?? (Or was it known?) But even so, Kev, it's seems very high even for that set of probs! .

Didn't work for me :(

Injectiors are red wire perminent 12 volts from fuse box - non-switched. ECU switching is on the brown wire. No resistors in circuit either side of the injector on these wires. .

Agreed Supercharged. Check your petrol pipes on the driver's side from the front of the engine and the car underneath. That rate it ain't all going down the engine. There must be a pretrol smell somewhere. (Other than the exhasut) I doubt if the probe could push it THAT far! But you never know! .

PM'd .

I reckon the calculation for road tax would generate a 15p premium on a litre of petrol. Insurance is a whole new ball game cos more variable factors come into it but if Blairs third party idea was done (which is sound as that means a central fund) I reckon a further 25p a litre would generate enough based on £300 annual premium 3rd party etc. If peeps want fully comp, then that you take out as additional cover and thats where the age, car, area, etc. kick in like they do now with any premium. .