junkie

Do not put the silencer kit on the BBM charger, that moves the throttle body and all it does is put the weight of it onto the casing of the charger, the casing obviously gets heat stressed and warps then seizes the charger up.

Yes as its not used as a fuel pump as such its only feeding the new pump, not sure on the theory of it all but Kev knows and he posted it up on another forum but its not used too much. :wink:

Agree with you there buddy, officially it should be serviced once a year to maintain it but was told that clifford never made the gen 4 stamp for the dealers.

Try running the early 16v fuel pump like i do. Bolts straight on under the car with the fuel filter and use the standard in tank pump to feed the new 16v pump.

Ok here is the 1 i was on about and yes its still not what you are looking for, in my head it was the same till i found it for all you haters out there viewtopic.php?f=11&t=7027&start=900 bottom of page.

Glad to hear its looking up if a lot expensive you noob....

ARB's will do alot more than braces. So you saying you dont want a rear arb just front upper brace with lower arb and rear brace. Well if it were mine i would go with the rear arb, maybe rear brace, front arb and larger rear arb than front. In my view your way will make it understeer. And the rear arb would probably be easier to fit than the brace lol. Do the arb's 1st as they make the biggest difference then if more is needed which i guarantee it wont then add some braces.

Forgot the guys name but he has the 28mm Neuspeed rear set to the hardest setting and standard front which he swears by, i personally feel a 25mm will be suffice Mark. I have 25mm front and rear Neuspeed, the car only understeers in the wet, it makes it wash out easier, it does corner very well though on 17's with FK Konigsports lowered 50mmish, now i do want to change the rear to the 28mm as i have the 25mm now, all it will do for me is help the turn in to be a little more responsive. I think _Leon_ also looked into this.

If you have standard front ARB a 25mm will be fine on the rear, the stiffer/thicker the bar is on the back the more the back end will oversteer.

Why do you say you need fancy bulbs on an uprated loom dinkus?

But its definately worth the wait.

lol

I do still agree with you.

I do agree with both your posts, it's just when lady luck is not on your side you never know especially when talking about the Corrado.

Still no guarantee though.

Really _Leon_, i cant recall it been off the road for that long, what were you doing? Prob next year now, just got too much going on and still no money im afraid, you need to drive it again though its completely different now to when you did last time, its working properly and boy its alot quicker through the gears, better do it quick before it breaks again mind.

Amen loom brothers.

Yep you def dont want to be going anymore safely, get some new injectors in there, i ran the greys @ 260bhp so may be worth looking into them if your going further with the engine, or just get a jezzag60 air filter set up lol.

Far from it mate, it came off the road in March, sat there for 3 months whilst i got the parts, then its been at least half of each week trying to fix the damn thing, got there in the end, happy to have taken my time though as it was the first time i have stripped a head off etc.

Going to be awesome mate, just like coxylaad's, you doing the dash too? Corrado's even rarer site on the roads as this 1 will be off the road forever lol, just dont do a stoney.

Oi you shut it before i kick your bleeding teeth in..... :bad-words: But please dont hurt me :roll:

Blimey @ the wheels too awesome stuff Jonathon.

I know some body who might have a rallye set up for sale mate but no haldex, let me know what you want for the box, is it a straight swap?

Sounds awesome mate, i need more info on the gearbox mate, i have been looking for a good answer for ages and awesome sounds good enough for me?

Have you checked to see if there is voltage there, obviously there is not properly, and the simple stuff like the fuse. Did you remove the fuse when you were removing it originally, if not i suspect the switched live from the ignition switch to be faulty, basically you earthed the switched live to the ignition switch and blew the contact on the switch, needs that wire moving onto another switch live. I have also done this previously too many times and i never learn, i have a permanent live to my ignition switch as you should do then all the other wires onto 1 contact, its only a matter of time till it goes too, borrowed time its called.