junkie

Man i thought everybody knew this existed already http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... opic=69918

You will get better sound by "upgrading" but dont expect the quantum leap as Kev says. The more you do the better the end result. No need for sound proofing but if you do the results will be more then without. Its like adding a supercharger to your VR6 without an intercooler, it will work fine and be better than a stock VR6 but add that intercooler and you will notice a good difference.

Yea they are a good bunch. Gald its getting sorted.

Good stuff, i have painted mine orange too but not for that reason, so they match my Audi 80 early gauges for oil temp battery and oil pressure

Most people on here around 99% would disagree with that but im in the minority with you mate.

So your aare BBM state it will do 22psi on the 50mm but it more than lilely will not dependig on engine spec, mine did 1.1bar, hence why i went turbo for 1.5bar.

Thats old man talk if i ever heard any...

With pretty much the same spec i made 260bhp 250lb/ft on the 50mm, just do it

You wont be able to tell headwork has been done unless the head is off the block, rocker cover off.

What do you specifically want to know mate, basically as with all superchargers, the smaller the pulley the sooner it will boost as in make high boost lower down.

that is rather handy i must say lol.

Wel yes true but my manifold will take IHI thats all im saying.

Yea will do dude but also its an IHI fitment/bolt pattern and he will have most likely the T3 4 bolt pattern.

Not a clue mate tbh, it would not last long at all, who is it for corrado sunderland or the other guy forgot his name now.

Er not thought about it tbh, you looking to have it or something?

There were different turbos as well on the cossies so which 1 is it do you know?

No way thats just a minimum everybody should aim for, i still want 2bar or over on some engine sometime.

Not sure if its a question to me but 1.45 - 1.5 bar Cheers dude appreciate the fave comment :D i did have it all for sale but nobody was interested so removed it, i am going 20v still but im not sure if the T60 will be going in a mk1 race car or not but i will keep you in mind, its a Jabbasport big valve head and i think its standard inlet with larger exhaust vlaves but as for size i aint a clue. Had the car 6 years and its prob been on the road for 3 so im not too fussed its SORN'd still, :brickwall: the manifold was too much heat for the manifold to take as it was not made right by the casting company but thats all been changed now so should be good now, time will tell. Absolutely feck all at the minute, tomorrow or day after all my new parts are coming, on call wknd and im been ordered to do more decorating again aaarrrrgggghhhhhh :brickwall:

If anybody is going to do it then its going to be me lol.

Yes true dude thats what i meant lol

The mods to the inlet manifold are to clear the turbo and exhaust manifold, basically cut off the support bracket for the original exhaust on the inlet. No you do not need the mk 4 MAP sensor initially if i remember right, the Haltech runs its own MAP sensor so i now dont use the mk 4 sensor. A remap will be suffice enough for now, i ran my curent engine on digifant upto 300bhp 300lb/ft. The crank trigger wheel is for the management to know when to fire as its now been converted to run wasted spark ignition to try and iron out some ignition issues i was having but you dont need to. I doubt very much your going to do it for what you sell the charger for though mate. It will def give an instant improvement though, a standard engine should see 220bhp and 240lb/ft as a guideline depending on parts used.

And as we all know it is truly the only worthwhile thread to be involved in on this forum lol..... Rob regarding the rod ratio. My 1900 conversion is achieved by the usual 83mm bore, the rods though are 144mm 16v/20v rods as opposed to the G60 139mm i think they are, i never knew why but recently read somewhere that due to a longer rod and shorter pistons the forces or less on the cylinder bore walls so less stress on them and less chance to pop a piston through the wall. So my question is do i have more, less or the same rod ratio and apparently the piston can be designed better using the longer rod but whether thats for strength or something i do not know any ideas dude?

Yes he did.

Lighter components will rev quicker and allow higher revs more reliably, but im not sure how it will be on an over square engine [stroked] I think over square is stroked, as in the mm measurements on the stroke is greater than the bore diameter. I think under square is bored, as in the mm measurements are larger on the bore than the stroke length. Or they are the other way round but basically the under square will be high and fast revving naturally and the over square will be lower and slower revving naturally, both give different engine characteristics obviously, what your trying to do is create the best of both engines without the draw backs i suppose.

I used the 50mm for 4k from when the charger was practically brand new, sold on after that to go turbo, had no issues what so ever and the throttle response was more than instant, you thought about putting some gas on and it was already off.