MattWilde

yep, got a scorpion on mine, but it was £25 and the bosal job that the car came with when i bought it was rotten. knocks a bit when cold and sits at a nasty angle, will get it changed when i have the dosh

green C on the A418 in stone this evening, gave a thumbs up and got a wave back :D

at 30 miles an hour i'd be in 1st gear not second, got about 10mph before the cam changes. you have to be in the right gear with vtecs or you bog down, much like a turbo.

I haved driven VTEC's for 3 years before i got the C and when you get used to how the power is delivered you can make them go very very quick. But not many owners are used to it. The handling on the type r is great for a track or for very smooth roads and we all know there aren't many of those, so the stiff setup makes it skittish on rough roads. And as stormVR6 said, the fiat coupe 20v turbo is a beast, my friend has one with a small bit of tuning to 254bhp and 251lb/ft tourqe, and oh my god does it shift, just a bummer with the lag between gear changes

just a suggestion about the payment/delivery of goods. but could an escrow service not be set up, either by the forum or by anyone on here so that money is only passed on to the seller when the escrow recieves the goods, then the goods are sent to the buyer when the seller informs them that the cheque has cleared. might make it safer if anyone has the time to do it.

tyres, suspension and brakes would be the first thing's i'd sort for good lap times.

you could get powerflow to make you one, will be made on the car so should fit no probs (well mine does)

gavin, thanks for the explaination and i have a good torque wrench so no probs there. With regards to the rev counter problem i forgot to say that when i took it in to be looked at whilst i had an oil leak fixed, my mechanic checked the accuracy of the rev counter by attaching a rpm reader to the ht leads to read the pulses from there. this returned the same reading as the dial does on the clocks. this is what is confusing me, the mfa says one thing, the clocks and ht leads say another, so if the mfa reads the same pulses wouldn't it match? listening to the engine i 100% believe the mfa reading, not the clock reading and i'm sure it doesn't idle at 650rpm! lol. really sorry for all the questions and thanks again for the help

h100vw, that part of the removal/refitting of the knock sensor is fine, it's the blue plug at the other end that i can't get off the car. it comes out of the loom connector but is attached to the metal coolant pipe somehow but i'm not sure how. G60Renshaw, so if the dizzy or coil are broken then it would send an incorrect reading to the dial there for replacing them would fix this problem? i thought the hall sensor was inside the dizzy (or so i was told) and my speedo is accurate to the roadangel gps so it's just the rpm that's incorrect which leads me to think the timing has been set wrong and thus the poor running of the car. does this seem like a valid reason? sorry for the long post, but i haven't been able to use my car since i bought it due to these probs and i really want to go for a blast thanks again

h100vw, that part of the removal/refitting of the knock sensor is fine, it's the blue plug at the other end that i can't get off the car. it comes out of the loom connector but is attached to the metal coolant pipe somehow but i'm not sure how. G60Renshaw, so if the dizzy or coil are broken then it would send an incorrect reading to the dial there for replacing them would fix this problem? i thought the hall sensor was inside the dizzy (or so i was told) and my speedo is accurate to the roadangel gps so it's just the rpm that's incorrect which leads me to think the timing has been set wrong and thus the poor running of the car. does this seem like a valid reason? sorry for the long post, but i haven't been able to use my car since i bought it due to these probs and i really want to go for a blast thanks again

thanks for the quick answer, my rpm dial hits the limiter at 5500rpm, but it reads lower than the mfa rpm does, and it gets worse higher up the range. i think my poor running might be from timing that has been taken from a sensor giving out incorrect readings. all very confusing and frustrating :(

Hello, just have some questions i need answers to so i can hopefully solve my cars probs. 1. Where does the RPM dial take it's reading from? And is it an electrical or mechanical sensor? (2 for 1 with that question :wink: ) 2. Same question as above but for the MFA reading of the engine speed. 3. When i went to change my knock sensor i found the blue connector of the sensor attached to the car somehow, but can't really tell how. The loom connector is free but the actual knock sensor connector is stuck, how do i remove this? Thanks for any help and answers you can give in advance

Compact Car Audio in Aylesbury are very professional. They are on Edison road on the Rabans Lane ind. est. Never had a problem with the Cliffords they have installed for me

changing the whole dizzy doesn't bother me, and the sensor is internal on the g60 so i'm told so it isn't replaceable on it's own. seems to be the next step

for got to add, the mechanic mentioned something about a sensor in the dizzy that 'could' be causing the rev limiter problem, does this sound reasonable? can't for the life of me remember the sensors name though, sorry

right, you were very close beavis. had a fuel leak which was causing most of the problems ranging from the mpg reading too high to the general poor performance, so that's all sorted........but the rev limiter still kicks in at 5500, strange this is, the garage had the mot testing machine thing on it and it read the same and the needle, only the digital mfa reading is still higher than the needle so i still think there is a problem, just don't know what. dodgy knock sensor? or am i gonna need to replace everything to do with the engine speed from the clocks to the sensor? soooo close

cheers, that has been noted too. not liking this list that's building though

sorry to sound maybe a little dumb, but i'm from a jap car background, so i don't know what all the cables and pipes are, been looking and working out what does what but i still need a little help. which one is the knock sensor cable?

they had the car to do it (and it is a stage 4 with pulley and chip, which is why i thought it would be quicker) all the vacuum piping looks new so i will check the length of the ecu/throttle pipe. The digital rpm readout on the mfa shows what seems to be the correct rpm, and it is higher than the analouge reading on the dash but at idle it is only a few hundred over not the 1,300 over it would be when the limiter kicks in. The car also feels like it is driving into a head wind a points during the rise in revs, could this be the timing? sounds like all of the probs everyone is listing is there :( thanks again for all the suggestions, really really helpful

any paticular fuse or relay that would affect the rev limiter? and the mpg thing, would that be a leak in a vacuum pipe or would the fuse/relay affect that too. Thanks for the help

never had it before the work was done so i don't know. and this is the first corrado i have ever owned so i have no benchmark to check it by

after bedding in the supercharger that has just been rebuilt i decided to see what the car could do (only got it 23/04/05). as i put my foot down the car accellerated ok but the rev limiter cut in at 5,500rpm, no where near the red line. Other odd things that are happening is the mpg always showing as 60-70mpg, the rev and mph needles twitching (seem to drop all of a sudden then return to normal with no change in the engine noise or feel) the car has just had a jabba stage 4 rebuild on the charger and i followed all the instructions for bedding in and to be honest i expected it to be quicker. very worried and confused, please help :?

that is one fantastic looking car :notworthy: