Toad

:oops: I must admit I misread that to start with, after the second or third time I realised what you meant. I suppose that'd be as good a bet as the turbo, and I wouldn't have to do anything to the exhaust. It'd be pretty reversible too. thanks for the suggestion Right then, in addition to the questions on the turbo above, how much work would it be to fit a charger, I know there are 16vG60s and the (eaton or lysholm) from a mini would be a bit smaller, so it would fit. Could the existing induction kit, ie filter, metering head etc, be turned to feed the charger, and the charger outlet fed into the throttle body?

Could you not space all the pulleys away from the block slightly? would that give you enough room?

Along the lines of?? Or do you mean a charger off a mini? I'd not considered charging it before....

I slid under my car last night, I was intending to fit the oval piped back box off my spare car, as my twin DTM box scrapes the ground and is a bit too noisy on the Mway, had a quick look at the fitting, then got under the spare, only to notice that my road car has a different exhaust, no big siliencer under the rear seats, I'd genuinely not noticed this in 2 years, despite the large amount of time i'd been lying under it, I suppose i'd never seen a 'proper exhaust' before. Just out of interest, do the manufacturers normally stamp their names on the pipes? I wouldn't mind finding out what make it is, I suppose they (straight through pipes) are/were readily available, and I think i'll remove it and refit it to stop the banging under the passenger seat. Any tips would be great! Cheers.

Hey Guys, I've been thinking about trying to get my 1.8 16v a little bit more fun to drive. The years are starting to catch up with the engine now, and I reckon she could do with a bit more go to her to get the fun back into driving her. I've been offered a 2l 16v engine which I thought about rebuilding and dropping in. I've got a spare couple of 1.8 engines and a complete spare 16v car, sop i'd been thinking along the lines of building the 2l block up with a rebuilt 1.8 head, and the spare gearbox, new clutch etc, then the car would only be off the road for a day or two while the whole lump was pulled out and dropped back in. But last night I got thinking that maybe a turbo conversion would be a bit more fun, keeping the 1.8 engine (rebuilt of course) I wouldn't want a big turbo, something small that would spin up quickly, after all i'm not after huge power, perhaps 175hp. That way the car would be perfectly driveable every day, sat in traffic on the way into town at low revs, but would get a bit of a shift on when I opened her up. Has anyone done a conversion like this on here? i'd love some input. The way I'm thinking is to retain the original air box, running pipework over the back of the engine to a turbo, then have a different manifold on the front of the engine, something similar to the Schimmel SRI. I could run pipework- perhaps 2-2.5 inch round to this My main questions are; Would the K-Jetronic injection system cope with this? I do quite like it's simplicity and I had heard it would run up to 200hp? Does anyone make a suitable inlet and exhaust manifold? Where could an oil feed for the Turbo be taken from? perhaps the oil temp switch drilling on the back of the 16v head? What other modifications would be needed? If i ran low boost, could I keep the original compression ratio? (10-1 isn't it?) I'd like to keep the car as driveable at low speeds as possible. I know it'd probably be easier to buy a G60 and mod that, but I like the 16v, and I want to keep it. Cheers for your suggestions.

Try using a hammer and a punch to give the head of the bolt a bit of a wack, should free it up a little.

I love you... I know the clutch is the other side, but they rotate together. :wink: They're bolted to eiter ond of the Crankshaft. You might struggle to undo those bolts with no head or gear box on the engine, you might have to use a windy gun, to undo them, otherwise the crankshaft will just rotate.

The Corrado uses a Hydraulic clutch, so there's no cable, instead it sounds like your release bearing has gone. were you getting a rumbling/lots of feed back through the peddle? its gearbox out time, i'm afraid mate. What engine is it, VR6, G60, or 16V that'll help people when tryi ng to diagnose your fault.

I think we've all been there... With Ben's sister? Is this another forum thing I'm missing out on? :lol: Seriously mate, that's some nice work... I wish I had the confidence to go all out on a conversion like yours!

I think that feeling comes as standard with a corrado, doesn't it? I spent a month trying to work out why mine wouldn't run before. The injectors are all working properly? Good luck with her.

Well last week I took my old spare set of injectors and remoced the end cap to them, then saturday, pressed the endcaps onto some new bosch injectors off the bay and fitted them to my rado. Doesn't seem to have made any difference to the driving side of things, and haven't had a chance to see if they've improved the starting yet, so that was a little dissapointing. Then borrowed a set of sprong compressors and changed the rear shocks, realising that I should have bought several more items than just the shocks, nevermind, they all went together with the crappy old caps and protectors on. Not pretty, but she goes round corners properly now!! 8)

Also trucks from Ireland, Gurnsey and Jersey don't have to have speed limiters fitted.

the sender is on the back of the 16v head, to the right as you look at the front of the car, the connector is a female spade that slides over the top of the sender. I suppose this connection could be sh!tty tooo.......

Imagine if there were no speed limits here today, do you reckon car development would have been significantly altered? I wonder how fast we would consider "too fast"?

What do you mean if it's top or bottom end? That is letting gasses past? I think the test is to put petrol in each of the bores, and if the rings are leaking, it'll run past them, if not I suppose it indicates the valves aren't seating well. Do you mean you did a complete re-build with valve stem seals and guides? How did you re-seat the valves? going old school and lapping them in with grinding paste?

For my 16v, I think it was around £300, that included all 16 valve seals, guides, skimming, pressure and crack testing and a rebuild and came back with a head set (all gaskets and bolts) I didn't have to buy a head set from them, but it was cheaper in the long run as they needed the stems seals from the set. I think valve guides are around £5 each, so a Vr head is £20 cheaper than a 16v in that aspect, I imagine skimming and testing are similar money, and stripping down and re building would be a similar amount of time, there must be plenty of people here who've had it done.

If you are confident enough to take it off, then yes!! you can even strip it down if you want to save even more money, I've just sent the head in fully built before and picked it up built back up. I've not had much to do with VR's but there is a group buy on the engine manual somewhere on the forum, get one of them (they're about £6 i think), that'll help a lot. Just be very carefull with the head, my mate had a Landrover tdi300 head to put back on this week and one of his mates was about to stand on it, que much panicy shouting!!!

Those steelies do look quite nice, and I suppose you've got the bonus of them not going skanky like alloys do with de-laquering etc.

Some parts of a head rebuild are pretty DIYable, but the head *should* be tested for flatness and skimmed, some people get away without either, but i don't like the idea of it, also, a pressure and a crack test are a good idea too, none of these things can be done at home really, I'm not sure about grinding the valve seats either, think that's best left to a decent machinist, although I have seen valves being put into a head without the springs and a drill used to spin them up, and "grind" them in, that was a very very agricultural application however and really isnt reccomended. To save money, bypass the garage, they only send them off, go straight to a specialist, Owslebury cranks in Winchester are very good, and have been going for years, but there's bound to be someone local to you.

Try adjusting the idle screw on your throttle body to lower your idle speed, I don't think the ISV would drag the idle up unless a temperature sender was wrong making the car think it was cold, and pushing the engine to fast idle all the time.

I have heard that if the sump has taken a knock the oil pickup pipe can crack, and will cause a lack of oil pressure on cornering despite the oil level being just right. Might be worth checking out if everything else seems cool.

See, better constructed answer :D

There was an answer to that question posted on here previously, I think by KevHaywire, I believe it went along the lines of the manifold needs to be wrapped to keep as much heat in as possible, this helps draw the exhaust gasses away from the exhaust ports, ergo, creating better flow, more power etc. I can't remember it exactly as to why it works, but I seem to remember thinking along the same lines as the inlet manifold runner diameter helping flow. Someone'll be along soon to give you a better constructed answer.

Apparently......

I've just ordered a set, I've got a really bad misfire on startup in this weather, I think the injectors are letting fuel leak past them. I've got a spare set of injectors that i've removed already so that I can pull the endcaps off and fit them to the new injectors in my own time. I'll let you know how it goes,