samg60

yeah massive big boost leak, this happend on my car when I first bought it, it was actually a tear in the pipe, check it over before reattaching

boost leak, fueling, timing, etc. Sounds like there ould me more than one thing at fault here, check your pipes first, then start looking at the other areas, you should me making at least 180, how does the car feel

For those interested here are some figures of the efficency of the two chargers. Glader. Volkswagen uses their own G-later spiral blower. They use the G40 (40mm spirals) on the Polo and the G60 on the 1.8 golf. The G-later is 55-68% efficient and produces good low down boost, but turbo charging has superseded it in the VW group. Lysholm Screw Blower. This appears to be the blower of the future and its only problem at the moment is the cost of manufacture. It has efficiency of 75-85% which far exceeds the roots (35-60%) and is well in front of the centrifugal. It is lighter and smaller then the roots and requires less power to drive it. It gives the best of both worlds in boost delivery. It provides substantial boost at low levels just like the roots, but continues to supply good boost further up the rev range like the centrifugal. It was banned from top fuel drag racing in the early 90s but it continues to dominate the 500cu top alcohol class (3000bhp) and there is nothing which looks like beating it. this was taken from the following http://www.ttmtechnical.com/overview_of ... uction.htm

As I understand it the lysholm doesn't just move the air like a typical roots but is a positive displacement charger and compresses the air as it moves down the narrowing of the screws, I think :wink: following taken directly from bahnbrenner site "# Superior performance to the: G-Lader, Turbo, Roots (Eaton) and Centrifugal systems. # Greater adiabatic efficiency (Approx. 80%)" "Finally a rock solid direct replacement charger for the G60 enthusiast who wants more performance and reliability over the G-Lader. As shipped, with a 12+psi drive pulley the BBM screw compressor can bolt on in place of the factory G60 G-Lader with no other engine upgrades. With approximately 20% more efficiency over the G-Lader, translates to lower intake temperatures, nearly instant throttle response and much higher boost levels at low Rpm's. For the more extreme individuals, we offer smaller drive pulley sizes & stage kits to increase the boost over 22+ psi.""

have you tried the good old dizzy cap and rotor arm, this sounds very similar to the way my car was before I replaced these, however I think my problem was made worse by the fact that the pulley bolt was about to snap and had thrown the engine timing out.

have heard that putting redline mt-90 synthetic gear oil helps a little, no idea how much though

yup make sure the length of the lead is exactly 1m

I think Caiosg60 was referring to when the car is off boost and the boost return is lubricating the charger and help spin it thus not taking the power away from the engine, when you open the throttle and start using the boost you are quite right it will use hp (not sure how much) but the benefit of all that extra pressure will then result in giving you more power so not big deal about losing a few ponies. as for efficiency from all the research I have been doing and the main reason I bought one is because they are more efficient chargers than g60s and provide better boost, and are virtually indestructible (I hope) ;-) the person i bought the charger off (cheers Migs) supplied this explanation http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/rac ... bypass.htm

wil be about three weeks before were on th road I think.

didnt read that you had a vr6 though so I guess the 8v sump wont fit (Doh) still worth a check in the scrappy. havent looked underneath one of these so maybe the driveshafts are in the way, cant imagine it though, even if they are, no big hassle to take them out...

Ive had the sump off a few times to change the pump and the big end shells, and just tighted up the bolts in no real particualr sequence never had a problem, I am pretty sure as well that the 8v sump will fit as I look exactly the same, I could be wrong here so best to check, but if it is you can pick up a reasonable sump from the scrappy for next to nothing, and you definatley dont have to remove the driveshafts, well not on any motor ive seen anyway. :wink:

yep there is quite a bit of custom fabrication to do, luckily my father in law has acces to CNC equipment and all other metal fabrication parts, as even the kit that I have aquired is going to need a fair bit of work to connect correctly to my car.

Hi Darren what do you mean by 1600? its an autorotor SR2 2087 Screw compressor. and its the same compressor used by bahn brener, it has the followoing specs Capable of 300+hp and over 20+ psi on small bore 1.8L-2.5L four cylinder engines. Rated at 15+k rpm continuous / 17+k rpm non continuous. .87L per revolution. heres a link to some of the specs. http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/ca ... &catid=275

arent the swirl marks where the apex seals have been rubbing against the scroll and casing? :)

rebuild was by pitstop 16 months ago, 15k ago, I was told by Steve that the apex seal walls were on there way out on the scroll and this is evident when looking at it, in fact thats what I thought was going to be knocking around in the casing when I opened it, but there was no cracking then, I trust Pitstop with there rebuilds I just think I was unlucky with the cracking, thats why I have bought a Lysholm. I asked them to port it at the time but they said I would have to find a better scroll and this is the risk of Gladers, it had regular oil changes every 3k after It was rebuilt always run up to temp before being driven, but was often driven hard, it produced 15psi all the way until I opened it . I guess its the luck of the draw, just glad it didnt grenade as at least I can rebuild it. once I find a better scroll

Post by CaiosG60 PWR on Sam's computer!!! ;-) :lol: I really wouldnt recomend the 4.24 final drive. Even with the G60 5th the cruising revs would be really high. If the 0.84 does 100mph at 5500rpm in 5th with a 4.24 final drive then I dont think it would be that much better with a G60 0.76! Dont people think the 3.9 final drive is pritty sprint orientated when fitted to a VR gear ratios? Try the 4.24 final drive on an online ratio calculator. If you still fancy it I'll let you know once removed and checked by Vince. Cheers Caios