samg60

Just a couple of questions for you 20v boys, just come off the phoen with Vince from Stealth and he is too busy to take my car at the moment which is fair enough, I am not too bothered about the car overboosting, however it has started occasionally just stalling then not being able to restart for 5 mins, this has either been from cold or when hot, with no particular pattern. car is now running fine with no black smoke etc, however it does hunt at idle, these are all small problems but would like them sorted. Vince has suggested the fuel pump relay which is possible so will take it off my relay from my old g60 golf

Ah ok, well will have a chat with Vince then to see what he thinks

Hi Cai, its been up and running all weekend and it absolutley flies (ask Ben) dropped the oil as it smelt of petrol. whatever the wiring loom / bad earth was doing it was bad as the car starts on teh button now and has no black smoke. Taking to Vince to get the map slightly reduced as he sadi teh turbo was over boosting, which apparently aint good. Vince Said taht K04 only like about 1.4bar for reliability and mines currently doing about 1.5bar. Just as a matter of interest what turbos do people replace the K04s with to get a reliable 300bhp figure, just interested for the future ?

Hi Gavin looked like the relays have given up the ghost, I may reinstall it after the car comes back from stealth, I think it was somehow causing a short, when I bought the car the headlights just wouldnt work at all, i.e. Dip worked but full beam basically shut the lights off, I didnt check that the wiring was correct or anything, just removed it, I will try and get a couple of fresh relays, can you let me know where I order them is it simply Maplins, or an RS catalogue or are they VW parts.

well would you know it, took a dodgy headlight wiring loom off the car and its running fine, gonna take it vince anyway as he says the car is overboosting slightly, cant belive it but the car is now running like a dream, not counting my chickens just yet by looking good

right then have spoken to Vince and he said all the sensors appear to be fine, did think that the car was hitting overboost a lot and that the max air temp it had reached 120 was dangerous however this was likely to have been when it was mapped on the rollers, however must keep an eye on it, have removed the boost controller thingy (thing with two wires to see if that helps at all) but really need to get the car to vince and thats miles away so i guess I need to get it transported there. bloody hell am thinking I may knock fast cars on the head, first a glader killed then a lysholm and now a 20v that doesnt work, cant get much worse, and the car worked fine for thr first two days I had it.

Right then No New Map sensor yet although can get get one by early next week, plugged a laptop in last night and the Map sensor seemed ok (1 bar when engine was off so atmosphere) and then .5 bar when engine was at idle so below atmosphere. air/fule was cycling between 10 - 14 going to ring Vince again at lunch once I have the laptop plugged in again car seemed to idle ok last night and no black smoke, but didnt take it out, am concrened until I know its 100% ok

yeah spoke to Vince, quite helpful, will take it to stealth at some point to get a cleaner map, the Map I have is for sprint racing hence the cold start issues etc, vince going to help me ove the phone once I get a laptop sorted (should be this evening) . Need to get the car running though and to be honest don't mind getting my hands dirty. thanks everyone and hopefully get this sorted soon

where is the idle adjustment on the 20v (told you I was new to these engines) and do you need the blue temp sender unplugged to adjust (as with the g60s)

fair point was only interested as it was there, but your right of course it will cock everything else up, going to remove it this evening and stick a plug over it, no idea why its there at all ?

I could however put a one way check valve there right ?

The saga continues, obtained new temperature sender from VW today, however the part number has apparently been superseded and the part I obtained has 140max rather than 125max on the side I asssume this is max operating temp and that the voltage scale will not have changed ? need to get a laptop to test MAP sensor however taht is proving difficult and I am a computer applications developer (for &*^&^ sakes) also took a picture of the foloowing, its a tap on the side of teh inlet manifold to adjust teh amount of air on a cold start, however i assume that where its attached to is a two way and therefore will need to be closed once up to temp otherwise I will lose boost (anyone ??)

ok spoke to vince and he says basicaly what Ben said either teh map sensor is up the duff or there is a split in the vacum hose, am going to check the vacum hoses tonight but need to find someone who will sell teh map sensor if its bust, the part number is GM 806-667 3 bar sensor

Hi Ben thanks for all the help mate, dont suppose you have the part number for the MAP sensor do you ? am going to go and order another from AUDI today when I pick up the blue temp sensor. hit another problem last night the MAP supplied to me on the floppy disk seems to be unreadable, going to try and plug into the dta tonight and at least retrieve the MAP form here so that I can at least store it safely, lets hope taht isnt corrupt as well ...... am also going to speak to vince this afternoon, to see if he can shed any light

Ok thanks Lee will do, just got 4 platinum plugs from the stealers and a new temp sender is on the way, was going to order new coilpacks but it turns out the engine is running coil packs from an AGU and the dealers said these packs never go, has anyone got any experience of these ?

Hi Gavin, yeah it was wayne that mapped it, so may give him a call, will have a check for the lambda sensor, I guess its still connected. will get a set of plugs and start there

Hi there, have just bought a corrado 20v on DTA and am having a few issues with it, the car ran fine for the first two days, but now has started stalling at every junction and wont idle, with bellows of black smoke (unburnt fuel) , I was told by the previous owner that it can be a bitch to start becuase of DTA but find it hard to believe that this is the only issue, as it ran fine for two days, I will throw another set of plugs at it as it hasnt had any for a few years but just wondered if anyone else had any ideas. (PS what plugs should I use, its a BAM engine with 285 bhp) many thanks Sam

Yippee !! I'm back (sorry Red Lee) but have a lovely new 1.8t corrado. 320lb torque and 285 bhp not a bad starting place. thanks again Lee.

never had my car on the rollers but easily keeps up with evos and scoobys. cars with similar specs in the states get between 205 - 235 hp at the wheels, lysholm chargers give fantastic power dilevery however they are not without their issues....

looking sweet :-)

yeah I know what you mean, I think they are diodes or resistors or something cant remember what exactly (god and I have an engineering masters degree :-) ) anyhow yeah on pin 2 which is vout I think it did seem to be on the same path as the component, you cant really go wrong if you clean the old solder joints and then just solder back. hey sam when you soldered your ECU back together did you notice a funny little khaki colored electrical component? if you know what I am taking about there were a few of them all around the board but I was wondering if you knew if it actually connected with pin #2? I cant remember..

well the chip is an sns stage 5 mapped for 18psi on a glader and the car is running very sweet (just gave it a good 25 mile thrashing) so I wont be changing back to the old sensor, I know I need a correct map for everything that has been done, but want some 440 injectors a smaller pulley and new manifold before I do this. I think Darren mentioned that the stage 5 sns chips had mappings up to 18psi anyway so I gues this is why cthe map sensor is working ok, anyway it all seems ok. I get a bit like a bull at a gate sometimes, but everything seems ok. Darren do I need a new map for this sensor ?

OK map sensor arrived and installed and car running well. all good so cheers jonathan. now the new map sensor is 250kpa which is 36psi right ? However I assume this is actually 18psi, so will I need another sensor for when I get the 22psi pulley and and can I now put back my ISV without it bleeding boost past 15psi. Cheers Sam

yeah appropriate map sensor on it way once potatonet sends it, really am going to have to speak to you over the coming months regarding bigger injectors 50mm pulley and a remap for 22psi, are you available saturdays ?

can the problem tehn be overcome by chnaging the map sensor