Kezbo

For sale: Genunine VW rear backbox taken off of my VR6. Surface rust to incoming pipe but back box itself in good condition considering age. The suitcase silencer on my car rusted through so I got a new full system but this back box seems too good to chuck out. £5 collected from me in Studley, Warwickshire

Yes VR6-2014 please come and get them!

I get what your saying but I'd never put these rusty parts back on

I have recently replaced the front and rear shocks and springs on my VR6. The old shocks and springs are covered in surface rust but we're functional when removed. Does anyone want them before I put them in the scrap metal bin? Collection from Studley, Warwickshire or pay for postage.

I have a set of 4, just been professionally refurbished (blasted and powder coated) and not used since. Looking for £300, in Studley just south of Brum. Also have a single un-refurbished wheel if of interest.

I bought those fuel lines from Heritage Parts recently, genuine VAG ones. Not cheap though. Interestingly I have the opposite problem, takes ages to fire from cold but starts on the button when warm.

Think you can get them on ebay, called trumpets if its the part I am thinking off: looks abit like a miniature trumpet and has a nut which clamps onto the bonnet release cable?

Is the Rayne Automotive loom the one to get? I need to buy one of these upgrade looms.

Still for sale

Not the same on the corrado, the feeds might have larger unions (can't remember right now) but the one being discussed is one of the rear brake lines.

Still for sale if anyone wants

Yes this seems to be normal, mine is like it and at first I assumed someone had oversized it at one point due to a damaged threat. But now I think it may be so you know which line feeds which rear brake. When I replaced my brake lines a few months ago I got the correct size male end off of ebay. I think they were m12x1.0 3/16 unions.

For sale, a new old stock genuine VW centre silencer, sometimes known as the suitcase silencer. I've had this in the garage for many years but never used, it is like new. Part number is 535 253 409K, I think it is for a 2.0 16v but may fit others. £60 Collection only from Studley, Warwickshire, due to size and weight.

How much are you after for them? I'm only down the road...

There are cheaper (branded) kits on ebay

Interesting, do you have a link to those ones? When I was looking there were a few listed in the corrado section but all of the wrong type.

I've just done the same and in the end had to drill the bolts out. Where do you get the backing plates from? The ones vw heritage sell didn't fit my vr6.

I've got a spare set of speedline that I've just put in for refurbishing and am planning to sell once I get them back. Pm me if your interested

Saw this thread earlier so tested this on my drive home. While driving the oil temp read 106. When I stopped, turned engine off and then turned ignition back on straight away the oil temp reading had dropped to 98.

Sorry for the delay replying. It was Redditch Shotblasters that I used too. They did a tow bar armature off my range rover, which is about the same size as a corrado subframe. It was £50 blasted and powder coated - that was a year ago and it's still in good condition.

I've previously used a firm in Redditch - may be the other side of the county for you though.

You can try heating the bolt up with a blow torch too, try to get to really hot as the differential thermal expansion of the metal is often enough to break the rust seal. Wait until the bolt has cooled before trying to undo it otherwise the risk of snapping will be increased. Also when I did mine the bolt was rusted to the metal lining of the control arm bush rather than the captive nut. I ended up cutting off the control arm and bush.

It looked pretty normal when I had it on the other day, around 90 degrees. Are you thinking it might have been too low? Intake temp seemed quite high, about 30 degrees when ambient was 18, not sure if that's normal or not.

Thanks. That's interesting, I've never heard of that problem. Is there any way to test / identify if this is my problem?

93 corrado vr6 I'm having some trouble in that on startup the car seems to turn over for a few seconds before firing up, then when it fires it takes a few moments to clear its throat. Then once warm the idle seems rough. I've had it on vag-com (lite) this morning and no fault codes found. I have replaced the fuel pump relay but that hasn't helped. I'm thinking it might be the crank sensor but want to be sure before spending much more money. Is there any way to tell without trial and error, what about the live data you can see on vag-com, is comparing that with typical figures of any merit (if so does anyone have normal figures?). For example n a hot idle I'm getting: Revs 680-740 (it's not bouncing around a lot but just doesn't sound ideal) Timing 4.5-6 btdc Co around 900 Any help or advice greatly appreciated to help my wallet!