Dr Forinor

Cool cool, thanks for the replies :)

So I take it there is less bias to the rear since it's seized? What should the bias be anyway? I heard (or read somewhere?) that if you lower a car, the bias should be changed from the original setting, is this correct? And would the fecked rear bushes be adding to the twitching problem do you know? Thanks for the help mate

Can you elaborate on what a "brake compensator" is please? I take it this is different from a "brake bias valve"? Don't worry, I have a date to get these replaced, even have the bushes in the back of the car but I couldnt wait to go for a good drive :oops:

Right, this picture ( http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/download.php?id=31403 ) inspired me to go out for a very enthusiastic drive, and boy was it fun, I havent had that much fun in a LONG time. Leaving home there were a few silly cars that got in the way but on the way back, an absolutely clear road and boy oh boy oh boy... I'm still grinning, but I could be grinning more! Firstly, I have Avon ZV3s so I know I dont have the best tyre on there (thank fook it was dry), secondly my geometry is out so it wont be handling like it should which I appreciate. But just under hard braking right before a corner, the back end seems to get very twitchy, you have to adjust the steering to keep it in check (I noticed this before I had a bump on the rear axle too). Now I know I need new rear axle bushes, but I just want to know if these shagged bushes are contributing (solely/partly?) to this problem or could it be something else?

Thanks for the location PeterMunns :) And great pics :D

That looks amazing. Forgive my ignorance, but where is this place?

My cousin just bought a 53 plate 320 Sport with an M kit, looks nice, just your average bimmer basically. Anyway, he took me around for a spin and then said "here ya go, see what you think". So took it off for a drive, needless to say it's not all that fast but for a 2litre, its nippy enough. The drive I must admit was amazing, I didnt push it to anywhere near the limit (me not being 100percent confident in a RWD car, no matter how much power it has), but even then you could tell how much grip it had in reserve. The feedback was amazing, the ride was taught round bends, the steering wasn't too light, had a good weighty feel to it, gear change was excellent, pedals were spaced perfectly, great driving position, I really dont have anything bad to say about it at all. I knew BMWs were a drivers car but I dont think I ever appreciated how good they actually were/are. I enjoyed it SOOO much that I want to ask for a "borrow" now. I might actually even consider buying one myself, I never thought I would say it. I mean I know M3s and M5s are amazing cars, there's no doubting that, but they're in another league. The fact that this one isn't all that powerful, just the drive was fantastic even though it didnt have the power, I was left breathless to be honest. Anyone have any comments on a fairly new BMW they might have tried out?

But thats the thing, I was thinking of putting it there too but then I couldnt figure out what to cable tie it to, maybe I just wasnt lookin hard enough?

Fair enough, thanks for the reply. Can anyone else confirm anything before I try it myself?

Hahahaha, WOOHOO!!! I always use the search, but sometimes either I cant search or it doesnt bring up what I need it to. Anyway, how many gold stars before I get a crown?

Erm, sorry to dig this up but what did you cable tie it to? Have you got a digi cam yet? It being more than 1 year on from the last post?

sciroccotune: Don't you find it odd that the Golf R32 is faster around the track even though the Porsche 911 Turbo is more powerful, is 4WD and also handles brilliantly?

I was hoping so but I assume they would have double checked, triple checked etc etc before they put up a time like that?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/topgear/powerlaps/ Have a look what the second last car is in that list, and then look at what was faster 2 cars above. How is this possible? Why? Discuss and enlighten me please...

Thanks for everyone's input, much appreciated, I think I shall save up for a BMC, you all have me convinced. Funny, the question wasn't even anything to do with the BMC CDA yet I am still going to end up buying one....

Wow, what a difference!!! I didnt have a heatshield and just the K&N jobbie right next to the engine, was told to get rid of "that sh!te", so I did and put in the original airbox with the original VW filter. And wow, the acceleration is better, seems to pull cleaner and harder in all the gears, minus the great growl (which I dearly miss). I then decided to change from the 17s to the original 15inch Solitudes, and my, what another difference, both in acceleration and handling [even though the tyres on the 15s (Avon ZV3) are worse than the tyres on the 17s (Toyo T1S on the front and Goodyear Eagle F1s on the back)]. Safe to say I am definitely sticking to the 15s, even though they look crap in comparison, but then I did buy the Corrado for performance, and thats what the 15s are best at. Now my question; Obviously the original airbox (with the not so free flowing filter) is better than the K&N jobbie, so I was thinking of just putting in an aftermarket panel filter. Now which one would you recommend? Or is there not much difference between the diff panel filters? I was thinking BMC since their CDA is much loved, plus it's cheaper than the K&N one. Would an aftermarket panel filter give me back some of the growl? Bear in mind I don't want to drill any holes in the airbox (I am a bit iffy when it comes to irreversibly modifying original parts). Thanks in advance

Thanks for the sites guys, appreciated, keep them comin if anyone has any more and if anyone knows about any books worth getting a hold of.

Right, my plan is to buy a Golf MkII around the end of the year, and make it into a project with subtle exterior mods, a nice ICE install and an engine swap with *hopefully* a supercharged VR6 engine. Can anyone point me in the right direction in terms of websites that may help me along with my project, and any books that will help. I am not savvy mechanically at all, so I will need to do a LOT of homework before I can get this project started. I am assuming a Haynes manual will be a start? Any other books that might be relevant? Thanks in advance

I feel for you mate, I would be absolutely devastated if I woke up to even HALF the damage of what happened to ONE of your cars. Hope its sorted soon and hopefully they get caught!!!

This is a tyre by Continental, which had come with my sister's Mazda (1998 1.5) when we bought it and I have to say, they have impressed me to no end. They stick to the road extremely well be it dry or wet and a LOT of my friends are impressed with the "handling of the Mazda" which I put down to the tyres right now. I asked a tyre dealer (who stocks Barums) how he thought they compared to Bridgestone RE720s and he said "about the same". Now, this is a budget brand by Continental, so I have trouble believing it but they really are that good. I don't have any experience with the RE720s (and can only go on from what I have heard on this forum) so cant really comment how they differ and just wanted to know if anyone has had a chance to compare the two?

Anyone managed to get this art mastered ? I used to try it on my (fun to drive) Rover 214SLi but the pedals were far apart, in the current Mazda 323 the brakes are very sensitive and I just cant manage it. The fact that I cant twist my foot around comfortably enough might also make a difference, but the pedals in Corrado are closer, perhaps just use one half of the foot for the brake and the other half for the accelerator rather than twist the foot? Is it easy to do in a Corrado compared to any other car you might have tried it in?

Dont want to go through the insurance kev, esp since I dont have protected NCB and I wanna build it up, and I think my excess is around £400ish... Yes it does cost around that much for the rear axle, but I will be getting the one that Dinkus replaced, which, as far as he knows, is fine and in good condition, AND cheaper, lol. The only matter is getting it up to me. Lol, I wish I had asked you sooner about the stub axle mate, no worries, when I have a bit of extra cash, shall replace the GSF stub axle with the VW part instead. gaz the geezer: Thanks a lot for the offer mate, appreciated, but as I mentioned, Dinkus and I already have an agreement.

davidwort: Kev is correct in that I have already replaced the stub axle, it is the arm that I am talking about. Can you tell me how I can get a hold of the software that you have? I assume this is EKTA? The reason why I'd rather change the whole axle (and not have washers etc like you suggested Kev) is 'cos I'd rather everything be done properly than just a "repair", but thanks for the advice. When I change the rear axle, is it advisable to change the other stub axle aswell? Or if it has not been damaged in any way, will it be fine leaving it as is? Does anyone know how good(/bad?) the stub axle from GSF is? I saved quite a bit buying it from GSF than from VW, should I have stuck with VW for this part?

Hey guys, I was just wondering, is the trailing arm a part of the rear axle or is it seperate? Ie, can I replace a trailing arm and leave the axle in place?

Are there any disadvantages of the VT gearbox mount? Such as having stiffer engine mounts gives more vibration, anything like that at all with the gearbox mount?