A20 LEE

Unfortuately not, as i don't own the rights to the pics. Already been in PVW July 05.

thanks, i've been sanding and grinding the rear beam today and thought to myself...Why am i doing this!!! Is going to look mental though. Got my mag shoot pics today!! Here's a taster, unfortunately can't post them up due to copyright. If you want a realllly nice wallpaper let me know and i'll email you a few pics on the condition you don't post them on a forum. BTW, whats missing from the pics? Removed something for the photos to make the car look cleaner and smoother.

i think if you building a car to show its got to be a little wilder/braver. Theres bits of this car i don't like personally but if it drove into a show ground it would knock you socks off. Truth is mine is a little too tame for europe but UK tastes are more restrained so i get away with it.

radiator cross member!! They rot like you wouldn't believe and cost about £450 from VW or £ 260 from GPC. Bought one myself after a fruitless search for a decent secondhand one. Lot of people re-powder/hammeright their old one rather than replace it, so watch out for that.

Spotted on cleaned.be. Think the time has arrived for a smooth front bumper, especially if your running phat arches. First toffeerado pulls it off and now it works on this one with a twist on the bad boy bonnet theme Really tempted by the rims too.

Only done one seam so far but you get the jist. Plan is to smooth and fill or grind every weld until i get a totally smooth beam. Should look really good but more importantly makes it a lot easier to chrome. Chrome struggles with chewing gum welds and tends to rust around them, so functional as pushing things on abit. before After - first smooth seam.

That more like it, have a go attitude. I'm pretty confidant the more i think about it that it will work out ok if i don't weld the plate to the trailing arms. Shouldn't be too hard to work out the increase in the cross section and imagine the eibach roll bar alone will stiffen up the rear more that the plate. Thinking about smooth off the ends of the integrated anti-roll bar but keeping it in place. Really need to weld it from the inside of the beam but theres very little access. Probably reshape the ends of the bars and tack a plate over the hole to tidy it up. Would look much better with those lumps sticking out tho' Should have more pics of the beam tomorrow and dropping of the subframes for chrome. Can't wait to see it all shiney, helluva lot of work gone into the rear frame. Hope it comes out OK!!!-

Interesting, bit of out of the box thinking going on now. Maybe i could go with the U section polished and chromed and silkoflex it onto place. Looks very close but has no impact on the rear beams function. Not quite as cool but a halfway house, probably just nag away at me though that its not done properly. Maybe i should buy another beam, do the mod and try it?

If i boxed it you right, now i'm suggesting a U shaped section which should still allow the beam to twist as i'm not completely resolving the resultant force in the beam as you would with a triangular section. My theory is that the U shape in 1.5mm steel should increase the I value of the cross section but not by a huge amount.

Here's a question for the engineers among us. If i bent a piece of 1.5mm steel plate into a U shape and welded it into the rear of the rear beam. The two outer edges of the plate would be welded to the outer edges of the rear beam, how ever the U of the plate would sit inside the U shape of rear beam sitting very close to the integrated anti-roll bar. In theory the rear beam shouldn't be a great deal stiffer but would hide the anti-roll bar. Thoughts?? Really keen to do this if you hadn't guessed!! Tempted to just go for it and see what happens.

i found that my 1990 16V'er was much more sensitive to wheels than the VR. The 16V really struggled to turn in as sharply on 8x17's as it did on sebrings. 8x17 (205/40) on the VR had little effect other than making the car a little twitcher at the back. Moving to 8.5x17 with 215/35 actually made the turn in very sharp and the steering feels about 40% lighter. No ideal why, expected it to be heavier. 9.5's on the back give enormus grip. Thicker anti-roll bars are a must as the grip pitches the body more even on a car as low as mine with the FK's on 3/4 hard.

Very nice, looks great from the rear. I'd replace the front grille and grilee spoiler with a factory item for an OEM+ look.

ditto...

Believe me theres nothing that compares to full throttle in a VRT. Sounds like there an angry tiger having a fight with a VR6 under the bonnet. Then theres the wastegate chatter, rushed gear changes and screaming tyres, can't wait.

good call, must get mine done... :lol: btw, you love what i'm doing with my rear beam. Post pics later tonight.[/quote:7eae7] Let me guess...knowing you I think you probably have boxed in the open section of the rear beam before sending it off to chrome?!?! :wink:[/quote:7eae7] Was thinking about that today too, boxing in the whole of the rear but not sure if it would make the rear of the car rock solid and mega harsh!! And boxing the two holes at the rear. :lol:[/quote:7eae7] I just read what, Andy had to say about boxed rear beams over in your thread. I may have to rethink this one! :lol:[/quote:7eae7] maybe you just box with with 1mm thick plate? Hmmm, its a good idea, worth more thought.

I've discussed this with some of the guys on vortex with VR6 T's. All say keep it simple, stick with 2.9.

Actually enjoy doing it myself. Shot blasting is also a complete pain to sand out to get a smooth finish for chroming.

Got my chrome driveshafts back yesterday and Rick kindly built them up for me, cheers mate! Gonna be pi55ed every night doing jobs for beer :lol: Also got cracking on the rear beam. Stripped to bare metal and ground back the welds. Now i'm going to run another weld along the edges of the current welds and smooth them in completely so the beam looks like one solid piece. Little more extreme than i planned but with TMT McCoy on here being a bad influence on me you, got to expect these things to happen. :lol: . Next question anyone think of a reason why i shouldn't box in the rear of the beam with a metal plate? Will it stiffen the the ride? Not sure if theres supposed to be any flex in the rear beam. Certainly won't be if i box and fit my Eibach anti-roll bars!!

Sorry couldn't resist, but you are crazy and are rewriting the book on building a Corrado show car in the process, keep it coming! Thing is I though i had wrote that for a second!! :lol:

good call, must get mine done... :lol: btw, you love what i'm doing with my rear beam. Post pics later tonight.[/quote:b1573] Let me guess...knowing you I think you probably have boxed in the open section of the rear beam before sending it off to chrome?!?! :wink:[/quote:b1573] Was thinking about that today too, boxing in the whole of the rear but not sure if it would make the rear of the car rock solid and mega harsh!! And boxing the two holes at the rear. :lol:

good call, must get mine done... :lol: btw, you love what i'm doing with my rear beam. Post pics later tonight.

thinking about ditching the cable myself and using a solonoid.

Looking to order a new sump for my C'. Anyone know if one of the aftermarket tuners offers a baffled sump off the shelf? Has anyone made one and like to offer any advise?

Since i chromed the gearbox i've been worried than the starter motor would compromise the finished article. Bought a brand new one from GSF which happened to be black. Problem now solved, asked the same friend that rebuilt my alternator if he'd ever tackled a start motor. "Loads of times" was the answer so he's stripped it for me and after a few hours of sanding i now have a fully polished starter motor. Got the end plate to do and then off for chrome. Think its an amazing reflection of the way the show scene is going that even brand new parts have to be stripped and rebuilt.

If it was easy everyone would have a 300bhp G60. Stick with it, sure it will be worth the heartache when your hitting low 13's at the pod.