Mike Edwards

Well, the boost return is just that: unless full throttle is used, a proportion of the high pressure air is returned to the supercharger. While doing this means that warm air is fed back into the charger reducung its efficiency, it means that the engine is only fed full boost when the throttle is wide open. If you don't adjust the linkage as described in the instructions, you will only get a 'whoosh' sound if you nail the throttle then release it. In terms of perfomance, it is my impression (having driven G60s with and without the boost return) that doing this might give a bit more oomph at full throttle, but reduces it at any other setting making for a more on/off driving experience. HTH

So you're selling the standard item? Interested if you are, as I want to get rid of the 'whoosh'. Could you post the actual text though? This might aid comprehension on my part at least...

Do you have a blow torch? One of the small workshop /kitchen butane powered jobbies? These work really well at freeing-off seized/rusted nuts and bolts - particularly if you're not interested in re-using the rod-end.

Those wheels are going to be - tricky. G60 280mm set up with Pagid pads and braided hoses I think.

On the plus side, that all the tyres are illegal makes the fact that they're the wrong size (leading to extensive rubbing and noticeable problems with the gearing) much more palateable... :) BTW, if the car was in the same state when I bought it as when it got it's MOT, make a point of never going back to that garage. I've never seen a melted choc-bloc screw connector terminal before, plus you have to love the way someone had wrapped tape round it 'just to be certain'. (Air Freshener comment removed as it wasn't intended as a dig)

Well - given how far the tyres protrude relative to the wheels, I'm still wondering HOW whoever was driving managed it??? :scratch: It's going to need a bit more than some light sanding followed by powder coating... :roll:

Maybe I need to put up some pictures of the 'kerbing'...

Do I refurb the - kerbed - BBS RX on my 'Project' G60 and buy a set of new (legal) tyres, or just flog them cheap and buy a serviceable set of used wheels and tyres? Costs seem to be about the same, so... :confused4:

Headlining doesn't look to happy either. If you want the interior panel I have a spare one.

I would be surprised if the gear itself is the problem?

More likely to be a bent track rod or rod end. Replacing it will be easier?

The second one appears to be completely McDonald-ducked. Which makes the gap on the top one more suspicious. Very normal, MOT failure if spotted, but still driveable.

Only when it's new though...

Well... The C has a cable change gear linkage, so the only places where wear can occur are the bushes/spring/retaining clips on the lever, the gearbox mount and the selector mechanism. The cable ends can also break (at the gearbox end), but these tend to go only as a result of some 'forceful' gear selection when the mechanism is out of adjustment. The 1st thing to check is that all the circlips holding the gear lever meachanism together are present and correct. Refitting these if they're missing makes a big difference.

I've changed 2 heater marix now (Golf GTI and C 16v), and in both cases used the more expenisve opton from Euro (less than £40 - bu6t it's been a while). These were stamped up (and dated) as a VW part but made in France - just like the original items. Valeo I think.

If it fitted in a Mk2, it ought to fit a Corrado (bonnet clearance notwithstanding)

I was wondering if it was bouncing off the bump stops...

11 and 12 if you belive that someone has previously over-torqued them to b*gg*ry is an important safety tip. If they're untouched since leaving the factory, corrosion is really the only reason to change (or if you manage to round them off trying to undo them too...)

2, 3, and 7 are the items to replace while it's apart. 2 and 3 are dependent on how worn they look/feel, but 7 tends not to show any signs of wear except when the weight of the car is on it (take 4&5 off and look for cracks/splits in the rubber of 7). There should be no need to remove the caliper when doing this, and nothing else needs to be supported once it's jacked up and on an axle stand (although I've never actually bothered with the latter, this is not good practice...) You will probably find 5 a complete pain to undo, while the bolts holding the strut to the caliper will require BIG spanners to undo them. Oh, and it's definitley worth buying/borrowing a big torque wrench when it comes to doing the strut bolts up again.

Hmm.. how low have you got it?

If your KR engine is still okay (did I miss something?), just go with - say - Kent GF 1602R cams. Less than £200 and gave my old 16v over 150bhp.

Obviously, if they're not to your liking I'm sure someone on here will be happy to take them off your hands... :)

The Inlet Air Temperature sensor is on the front right of the intake manifold

Firmer springs??? For AVOs!!!! Have the strut tops punched through the bonnet yet???

The springs on my H&Rs were rated in N/mm...