Mike Edwards

The springs will have their rate printed on them - what do they say? I took mine off as while the C handled wonderfully, the springs were just too hard for road use below 60mph. H&R did send me prices for a set of springs that matched the rates of their lowering springs though if you're interested? If you're worried, I have a set of H&R lowering springs plus some (very) low mileage Koni T/A's I might be willing to P-Ex.

If it will drive bring it to the WOrcestershire meet this weekend and we'll either sort it out, or tell you what needs fixing.

What he said. Make sure your gearbox mount is in good condition as if this goes the shift action rapidly goes downhill...

Actually, a good intro... :)

The relays are for the ABS, so good advice!

For Weird, try this...

I used to have a Shrick'd and remapped (plus t/b, panel filter, Skorpion exhaust) VR6. As originally rolling roaded by AMD* it was making 229lbft and 206bhp. Six years later it was making 'just' 207 lbft and 215bhp. *in 1998 - having just fitted the parts above.

A 205 GiT* vs. a Corrado thorugh the twisties? The C is a heavy beast in comparison to the 205, but on healthy suspension I think the C would edge it. Provided that the 205 driver didn't bottle out mid corner - in which case the C would be useful for dragging the 205 out if the hedge... *owned both

358 is a Passat. 217A means you've got electronic differential lock (the abs acts as traction control as well as abs) 1h2 614 217A was fitted to a passat between 1992 and 97.

The shorter front stops are available from VW only I think - but they're not exactly expensive.

On my VR6 it's on a completely seperate mounting on the passenger side of the dash.

The power relay for the ABS is another source of this particular problem.

You also need a different cam cover gasket. Fiddly? How big are your hands Kev???

Current Polo items look like they might fit???

Vanish Mousse Carpet Cleaner and a flannel will deal with any problems caused by grubby hands - and clean up the dirt that's already there.

The OBD 2 tb does appear to be larger diameter than any of the OBD1 items (I have obd2, ABV and AAA obd1) interestingly the AAA is a very late model item and has the same i.d. as the gas flowed ABV item. As far as torque rush goes, the 2.8 manifold increased the kick in the pants feeling and appears to have moved it down the rev range (but has probably lost me some top end - but I don't spend much time at w.o.t. at the top of the rev range...)

Several causes are possible: 1 or more circlips holding the gear lever end of the linkage together have come loose; The bushes at the gearlever end of the linkage are badly worn; The cables are loose at the gearbox end and/or are out of adjustment; The gearbox mount is shot; The selector mechanism in the gearbox is shot; A selection of the above in no particular order.

Struan looks pretty worrying too - without looking like Begbie in any way whatsoever (obviously)... :)

Might be an idea to machne your spacers out of high tensile steel...

Sounds more like a problem with the seals in the master or slave cylinder?

Adjustment is at the gearbox end - the levers that the cables attach to. Adjusting these is easy to do, but only if you're sure that the shift lever mechanism is in good shape and (this may sound odd) the gearbox mounting isn't shagged. If you're happy about the above, looking at the levers on the gearbox you'll notice that one is closer to the engine with the cable aattching to the side of it, while the other is closer to the wheelarch with the cable attaching on top of it. Before doing anything with these, mark the position of the cable's fixings relative to the levers. For your problem, with the car in neutral slacken the cable on the lever closest to the engine and move the fixing backwards slightly relative to the lever before retightening and going for a test drive. If you find the other gears getting harder to select, you've gone too far. HTH

The Shrick VGI I had on anothe VR6 gave substantially more torgue across the range - but the ECU had been remapped to suit.

Not that I'm aware of. The OBD1 2.8 manifold* I currently have on my VR6 looks alot like this underneath though. *Moves the 'kick in the pants' moment on full throttle downwards by about 500rpm according to the 'butt dyno'

Comparison:

Hmm... where did I put that 2 Tesla cryomagnet...