Mike Edwards
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Everything posted by Mike Edwards
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Fitted the inlet and throttlebody this weekend, but left everything else as is. First impressions are good - much snappier throttle response due to the different linkage, the torque peak now appears to be at ~3500rpm and the peak power doesn't feel like it's dropped much. One thing, the butterfly on a 2.8 OBD2 throttlebody is significantly bigger than that of the OBD1 (or at least on the examples I have). I'm guessing, but it may also be bigger than a stock 2.9 OBD1 item as well.
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Cams are different between the ABV and AAA ,but are the same across all AAA variants (OBD1 and 2). Makes you wonder about the effect of the revised inlet on the OBD2 engine...
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Bonus question: Describe the differences between an AAA and ABV head... :)
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Gearbox mount in good condition? Cables might also need a tweak?
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No-one's yet mentioned upping the CR as part of the rebuild? This seems to be a standard item on VR6 race engines (about 11:1) and has 2.8 engines producing 220bhp...
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Maybe the one from a 24v?
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Passing thought of the day - 12 and 24V inlets
Mike Edwards replied to Kevin Bacon's topic in Engine Bay
http://www.schimmelperformance.com/main ... ntakes.htm -
There's already a fluid cooler...
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ABV VR6 techical information (rebore size advice)
Mike Edwards replied to Rpmayne's topic in Engine Bay
3.2l... -
ABV VR6 techical information (rebore size advice)
Mike Edwards replied to Rpmayne's topic in Engine Bay
Juat out of curiosity, what's to stop you putting an ABV head on a BFH block? -
I might be selling a gas-flowed throttlebody and chipped ecu to suit shortly...
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VW also do shims for the rear wheels that can be used to adjust camber or toe-in.
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To convert from OBD1 I need the complete intake, throttle body, sensors, engine loom, engine bay loom, ECU + what? TIA
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The fade you describe is most liekly the pads. The 288mm upgrade is the easiest as it just bolts on without haveing to sort longer bolts and spacers. Get some hotter pads first, with changes in the fluid and braided hoses if you're still losing the brakes.
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Use a small adjustable spanner and leave the adjuster nob in the toolkit?
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This picture should give you the idea.
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If you didn't scribe round the bottom of the strut where it bolts on to the wheel bearing housing and fitted the coilover in the same place, the camber will be out and with it the tracking. On the rear suspension, the rubber bush does sit between the body and the top of the coilover but is should have come out with the strut. Generally a good idea to replace these things though as they perish with age...
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Did early Corrado VR6's have smaller rear brakes ?
Mike Edwards replied to AmbisoniK's topic in Drivetrain
Same size rear brakes and pads on all models, but a change in pads for later VR6 and G60 cars (March '93 onwards). -
If the top plate (visible in the engine bay) is the only thing turning - along with the damper rod and top nut - you don't have a problem. I fht erubber top mount below these is turning as well when the car is on its wheels you do have a problem.
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Standard suspension makes no such allowance (although corner weighting does make a difference) so if there's as big a difference as described it suggests that something is amiss. Did you check the assembled length side to side before fitting them?
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So in summary the best combination is?
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Steering rack issues solutions and swaps....
Mike Edwards replied to 24V Renshaw's topic in Drivetrain
A key tip - from personal experience - when changing the rack and replacing the ARB bushes on the subrame: Before you bolt everything back on to the car, make certain you've put the ARB back in the right way up. Oh how I laughed when - as the very last job - I came to put the droplinks on... -
But you're driving what is reckoned to be one of the best-handling VWs made. If you're ruining the handing for the sake of looks, you may as well slam a Lupo - it's not like you've lost anything... :)
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4th!!! Check the bypass valve, and use a a good quality item. (2 so far - but on different cars...)
