Valerian

Just replaced my original Valeo matrix with a Topran one and found that it doesn't seem to sit in the heater box as well as the original. The matrix seems to be a couple of millimetres taller than the original so i can't locate the two locking tabs on the top I think this might be because the bottom plastic cover of the Topran matrix is not an exact fit into the bottom shaped reccess of the heater box. Not too great a problem seeing as it's held in with two screws anyway. Has anyone else here found this problem with the Topran (or any other make of) matrix? Water had also been leaking in through the heater motor air inlet as well so i've (hopefully) resealed it with mastic. How the heck did VW ever think that, what looks like, foam draught excluder was ever going to be water tight?

I'm changing my matrix at the mo. and i intended to leave the dash in but i couldn't see how (having never changed a VW matrix before) you could get the matrix out with the dash in situ. There is naff all room to move with the dash in so i took the lot out. I would say a realistic time to do the whole job would be 6 to 8 hours and that's gonna hurt your pocket if you get a garage to do the job.

I managed to find the little blighters and boy is the nut on the passenger side a right knuckle cruncher to get to. I didn't intend on taking the dash out to begin with untill i saw how little room there was to maneuver. Someone has had the dash out before and not routed the loom correcty so i thought i might as well take the whole lot out. Looking at my old matrix i'm not entirely convinced it is leaking untill i get it pressure tested. Still....i've got a new one now so might as well carry on. Well....will carry on next weekend. I was only out there for a couple of hours today then lost all feeling in my hands. So....sod it for the time being.

I've started stripping my dash out so i can fit a new heater matrix but i'm blowed if i can find the two dash bolts that are supposed to be just under the windscreen in the engine bay. I keep looking at the pictures on the Canadian Corrado site but even so still can't seem to locate the bolts on my car. Can anyone enlighten me as to where they might be exactly?

The other belt that's in the way is the power steering belt. You need to remove that belt before you can remove the alternator belt.

Blue is positive......blue brown is negative Here is a schematic of the speaker wiring for you:-

I believe they did in the 1990's and it was called the "Taro"

Oh...and they (VW) are also planning to build and sell a pick up truck in 2010 which will be called the "Robust". Lets hope they get it right and don't leave themselves wide open to the mercy of the trade discriptions act :lol: Here's a video of the moc up that's been seen driving around:- http://video.google.co.uk/videosearch?hl=en&client=firefox-a&channel=s&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&q=vw+robust&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title# and here's a pic of what the finished item will look like:-

"Now i wonder why that could be" he said whilst dismantling the dash board of his Corrado to make his way toward the confounded leaking heater matrix. Anyhew.....here's my bit of news/trivia for those that don't know:- Remember Volkswagen's 'one-litre' car, capable of one litre per 100km, or a scarcely credible 282mpg? Well VW has approved top-secret plans to build the limited-edition fuel miser in 2010, CAR Online can reveal. The tiny, grey cigar-shaped curiosity was a triumphal hit at the 2002 annual meeting in Hamburg and now – finally – it's heading for production. At the time the chairman of VW's supervisory board predicted that the super-economical two-seater would go into production as soon as the cost of the carbonfibre monocoque dropped from £28,000 to £4000 which he estimated would happen in 2012. Now the VW 1L will hit the market two years ahead of schedule, in 2010. ... Somewhat surprisingly, the basic vehicle concept of the one-litre VW (pictured) hasn't changed that much over the past six years. To keep the frontal area as small as possible, the passenger still sits behind the driver. To ensure optimum structural rigidity, the aircraft-style canopy door concept will also be retained. Very Top Gun.

It's just the whole dash outer that i was going to replace so i guess i should be ok unless anyone else can give me some input.

If it was summer then i would, but it's winter and with no heater it's rather difficult to keep the screen defrosted me duck. Windows are also steaming up with the heater on so i assume the matrix has gone big time.

Is the later dashboard the same as the early one. By this i mean the whole main part of the dash excluding the switches, controls and facia panels. I'm asking because i thought seeing as i'm going to take the dash out to replace my heater matrix i might as well fit a replacement dash in exchange for the one i have which is riddled with screw holes drilled by previous owners.

Didn't realise the recall only applied to VR6's of a certain year. My C is a 1991 KR model so i guess it doesn't apply. I thought it would apply to all Corrados seeing as they fitted bypass valves to all models.

Do you mean ....changing the matrix or driving a Skoda Felicia? :lol:

I bet you thought this thread would be about the credit crunch . Well, it could be if i wanted to whinge about the fact that late last year my employers took our quarterly bonus away and layed off 10 workers in my area. I could also whinge about the fact that since two weeks last Monday i have been under consultation regarding possible redundancy. But...nope i'm not going to whinge about all that :ignore:. Anyhew...some of you have probably read my other posts about the problem i had getting no heat from the heater after the coolant system decided to throw a wobbler a couple of weeks back. Well, this morning the heater matrix decided to empty all it's contents into the passenger foot well....thanks a bleedin bunch VW :bad-words: :lol: guess what i'll be spending the weekend doing. Worst of it is that i'm now going to have to drive around in my sister-in-laws Skoda Felicia untill i get the matrix sorted :pale: . Still....better than walking or crashing due to misted up windows i guess.......ir is it ? :eek:

The mould is on the inside...round the edges between the lens and the backing. Do you stick the pressure washer nozzle inside the light then?

My opinion is.......i think it looks supurb :D You've made a good choice with the body kit and i think the whole car looks very smooth and not too chavy (as they say these days). Wish things would stop breaking on my C so i could get it looking the same as yours.

Just remember this the next time you try to drive through a flood. Replay in your head the legendary words of Mr Scotty "She canny take it Jim"

Pull off all four spark plug leads off the plugs and look down the spark plug holes to see if there's any water down them. If there is (and you can't always easily see if there is)....take all four spark plugs out and let the water drain into the cylinders. Then replace the plugs and leads and crank her over.

+1 :grin: -2 :lol:

Hi Monkey....well i think you answered your own question. I have one of the aforementioned Bras mainly because my last bonnet ended up looking like a pepperot thanks to the damn farmers down here spreading half the fields over our lovely winding country lanes. Got to admit though that it does very little for the looks of the car. Seem to look ok from a distance but dreadfull up close due to the thickly hemmed and stitched edges of the Bra.

I fitted crystal rear lights to my Corrado 9 months ago but now there is green mould all around the edges of the lenses between the lense and the backing. Anyone ever found a way to clean them out or should i just bin the damn things :grin:

Absolutely awsome car with all the latest technology including playstation graphics on the dash. A worthy conclusion to all the Nissan sports cars that have gone before such as the 240, 280, 200sx, 180sx, 300zx, all the Skyline models and the awsome 350Z.

Try filling the matrix up with coolant through the two feed pipes in the engine bay and then reconnect the pipes and fill the rest of the system. Unbolting the expansion tank and holding it up above the level of the engine helps expell air as well.

Let me know how this goes....i was rather wondering at what pressure these VW heater matrix bypass valves actually close, or start to close, at. Thing i'm getting at is....When pressurising the system with this airlift tool, could there be a risk of the bypass valve closing due to the excess pressure from using the airlift. :shrug: Have you actually taken your bypass valve off to see if it is closed. You can tell just by looking down the barrel of the valve if it is closed. The other method i used to test it was to hold the valve under a running tap to test the water flow. I'll take a photo of my valve tomorrow but i'm not sure that the camera will be able to see down the mouth of the barrel as well as the eye can.