Valerian

Take your drivers door panel off and check that the wire coming from the exterior door handle is not fouling when the window moves up or down. If it's not that wire that's causing the fault then it's more than likely a wiring problem where the wires pass through the door pillar into the door itself. Over the years the constant opening and shutting of the door can fracture wires in that part of the loom.

You may either have to fit a new lambda/o2 sensor or a new cat. Try the sensor first. Surprised your MOT tester couldn't offer more help.

I used to think that but i'm quite warming to the idea lately....lol

i have some spare indicators but the lenses have cracks. Ther are some listed here : - http://www.car-partsonline.com/Results.asp?Basic=652&command= But who knows if they actually have any. I was thinking of converting my front fogs into indicators and then removing the existing ones and using the o/s space as an air inlet for the air filter.

For whoever might be interested...Autobra at the moment have reduced the price of the Corrado bra by a tenner:- http://www.autobra.co.uk/shop/index.php/cPath/106_120?osCsid=37fa2c1f82487ba94fc1c91f0d21b930

There's is no way that idle speed screw should be srewed out that far. You either have a vacuum leak , mechanical timing is out,or , ignition timing is out. Seeing as the car seems to rev freely i'de put my money on a vaccum leak.

I thought all the BMW drivers (cocks) were now driving Audis. That's what Jeremy Clarkson said a few months back and he should know because he's the God of all drivers.....lol

But have you adjusted the idle mixture? You adjust it at the fueling head with a hex key. Turn clockwise to richen...Anti-clockwise to weaken. You should also check that the ignition timing is correct.

If she's not idling smoothley, and she's drinking fuel, it suggests to me that your idle mixture may be too rich.

162k on my KR valver but had a rebuild 3k ago

Sounds like valve stem seals to me as well. Seals are not too expensive but labour will be quite a bit. I'm sure one of the VR boys will be along shortly to enlighten you about the cost.

PIN 1 = BU/WH - ? blue/white = Speed sensor feed PIN 2 = NOT CONNECTED - ? PIN 3 = NOT CONNECTED - ? PIN 4 = BN/RD - ? brown/red = Ignition switch live PIN 5 = BK - ? black = +12v to aerial amplifier (switched feed from head unit) PIN 6 = BU/GY - ? grey/blue = illumination feed (to turn on head unit illumination when the lights are switched on) PIN 7 = RD/WH - ? red/white = permanent battery live PIN 8 = RD/BN - ? brown = earth

Or even better .....this:- http://search.autotrader.co.uk/es-uk/www/cars/TVR/Ne-2-4-5-6-7-8-27-44-49-53-61-64-67-103-133-146-236,N-19-240-4294966359/advert.action?R=200837318609831&distance=150&postcode=ex36+4et&channel=CARS&make=TVR&model=&min_pr=&max_pr=5000&max_mileage=

This would be a nice Sunday toy :- http://search.autotrader.co.uk/es-uk/www/cars/CATERHAM/Ne-2-4-5-6-7-8-27-44-49-53-61-64-67-103-133-146-236,N-19-240-4294962808/advert.action?R=200838318827934&distance=65&postcode=ex36+4et&channel=CARS&make=CATERHAM&model=&min_pr=&max_pr=5000&max_mileage=

If you are anywhere near Walsall then i can recommend MIJ Performance. They can build and fit a stainless system for a Corrado while you wait (as long as you pre-book a time slot) for around £275 or less. I've used them several times in the past for building and fitting exhaust systems on imported vehicles.

Water will seep down into the spark plug holes and cause the spark plugs/leads to short circuit. Best thing to do after an engine wash is to take each spark plug out and let the water drain into the cylinders. Then replace the plugs and start the engine to evaporate the water from the cylinders.

There are plenty of Corrados being stripped for parts at the moment if you do need a motor.

Those boss' usually have a copper sprung contact/tag for the horn. Try taking the boss off and bending the copper contact back a little so it doesn't drag so hard.

Does anyone know if the interior door latch handles on the early Corrados are the same as the later ones? If not then how do they differ?

Take your headlights out of the car and remove the lenses from the headlight units. The reflectors are prone to peeling and turning yellow, or even worse smokey black. If you can't remove them from the car for some reason then you'll have to just peer through the lenses to see if the silver/chrome reflective coating is all in tact. If the reflectors look ok then you will need to fit an uprated loom.

try here:- http://www.body-kit.co.uk/section.php/2596/1/body-kits

Don't even get me started on this subject :bad-words: :mad2: :censored:

Yes m8 tiz me

So...are you saying that even though you have tried a different dizzy you are still getting no spark at the spark plugs? You need to take a spark plug out of the head, connect it to it's lead and then get someone to crank the engine over on the starter while you hold the plug against the head or rocker cover (make sure you wear a rubber glove when you do this). You should see a spark jump between the plug and the head (or rocker cover). I'll explain what i mean about No.1 at TDC when you confirm if you have a spark at the plug or not.

Put number one piston at TDC and then check that the rotor arm is pointing to the position of number 1 spark plug lead.