cata

:lol: I took the time to get rid of that 14yr old grease and muck off the front seat belts, with hand pumice. This would be doing the complete opposite, wouldn't it? It's easy enough to take apart and tighten the crap out of that spring when you know what to do. Hopefully, when I get some pics up, it will be straight forward for those who never looked at the mechanism before.

Well, cutting up the plastic scuttle tray panel worked perfect. It's aged and nasty-looking so I took a hack saw to it and then mounted the washers on there with some glue. It works just like before and I didn't loose the heated washer jets in exchange for some after-market ones. Keep in mind that three tiny little chunks of the scuttle panel itself (metal) had to be cut out as well in order to channel things properly.

Sorry guys, I meant to update this thread. I blew the head and now it's been waiting at my shop for the last couple of months. I hope to do a quick DIY sometime before the end of the year when I get it back.

Many people have been reporting bad customer service from EIP, and that's over in the States. If you're across the pond, I imagine they'll look at you and see a freebie. It sucks that you guys get the 2.9L manifolds (what the EIP copied) but at least we get the Schricks for cheap :lol: ...which is what I'd rather save my pennies for BTW.

I've had the same problem after first buying mine. It was quite funny to see the passenger nod with every spirited shift I did :lol:

I can't believe it's doing this to me. Two days ago I was putting the rest of the front end back together and then the stock alarm just went off for no reason. I turned the ignition on and that didn't shut it up so I disconnected the battery. Ever since then I have three weird things that are acting up. The car has a Clifford alarm wired up to the stock alarm, installed by one of the PO's. 1) The close window feature worked but now all windows close except the driver's window which doesn't move at all but closes through the window switch. 2) The horns are also acting up, they are brand new horns (which worked when tested) but when I press the horn button with the ignition on I can hear the relay clicking and the horn making a short "bing" as if it gets a short amount of power as the relay goes through it's cycle. 3) When I twist the ignition switch to start the engine, I can see a small voltage drop but no movement what so ever. I know the stock alarm cuts the fuel but the Clifford alarm probably cuts the starter. Other than that, the alarm works fine. It locks all the doors and it activates but why all of the weird behavior all of the sudden? I did need to disconnect the battery a few times when working on the car but I didn't play with any wires. I also checked all of the fuses and made sure that the relays are properly plugged in. I disconnected the battery for 13 hours in hopes that it will go back to normal but no results. I also caused the alarm to go through it's cycle (arm the car, kick it so it goes off then disable alarm) but nothing there either. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I need the engine to run to finish up the last of the mechanical work and drop it to the ground and take it for a drive for the first time in 8 months.

We in Canada got that blank "unleaded fuel" plate too but I'd rather have a fully functional Corrado. Here's a pick of the switch. Can you guys post up a pic of those air con controls? We got them under the heater controls because they came standard. ...oh and we were the only country not good enough to receive fog lights so just finished wiring those up last weekend.

Cheers for the responses, since I live in Canada I have no access to broken down Peugeots. Would anyone mind posting a link where I could possibly buy a kit like this? The hood was hand made by a guy in Canada and it cost 550CAD to make and then 120 to ship it a fair amount of distance. The quality is close to flawless, he did make a small mistake that only I would notice but other than that it looks perfect. It's got rolled edges too.

I just found this in the mailbox today, ...but it doesn't have the holes for the washer nozzles pre-cut. Can any of you guys recommend the best way to do it? I don't know if there are things that I should watch out for when cutting through fiberglass bonded to carbon fiber but any sort of advice will help right now. I need to do this in order to pass a comprehensive inspection. Oh, and I'm not giving this to a body shop. Can't be trowing money away. :lol:

I'm pretty sure that that's where the headlight lever switch went.

E-mailed him a few days ago but no reply from the guy.

You need: -laundry hooks -leather glue First you need to take the damaged card(s) off as it's next to impossible to do a good job with them on the car. You can take this opportunity to give the leather a proper cleaning/conditioning as it's a whole lot easier when it's off. I even scrubbed the stitchings with an electric tooth brush when I overhauled mine :lol: Then you spread glue evenly between the cardboard and the leather then you use the hooks to bite the two together and create a strong bond. Be sure to buy tons of each as it took me four small tubes of leather glue and a bag of laundry hooks to do all four. Be sure to plant the hooks right next to each other and then depending on the glue drying time, move them down one by one at least twice during this period of time so that there won't be any deep marks in the leather when the glue is dry. I was happy to see it when it was finally done but it's pretty time consuming when you have a lot that needs to be re-glued. I suggest you reinforce some of the parts that didn't come apart already so that you won't have to do it again soon. That's how I did mine and they are holding up pretty good. Here's a picture I found, to get an idea:

I will take pics when it will get done, within the next month.

Here's a bit of a shortcut, but you loose most modern alarm features. I think it's worth trading for, rumour is that OEM alarms aren't as easy to hack with a laptop. This comes with instructions to hook up to the stock alarm. http://cgi.ebay.com/Klappschluessel-Funkfernbedienung-Corrado-Golf-3-G51_W0QQitemZ4632266326QQihZ002QQcategoryZ53915QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

I had the same problem but I took a slightly different approach. I already did the front ones but the rear ones will be the same. If you guys want, I can show you how tighten them enough so that they work again when I do the rears. Obviously they won't work like new but it does make a difference. All you need is a flat-head screwdriver and someone to stand around and help you twist it.

Same here, you should look into selling these. I was straining my back yesterday trying to tighten the door as high as I could but to no result.

That is some serious BS. One day I save some awesome pictures from you and the next I find this in the search. You're probably better off with it being a writeoff anyway because you don't want to keep driving it knowing in the next few years it will start to rust away. It gets pretty depressing until the whole process is over but I hope that this won't cause you to look into other cars. Hopefully the right one will come along shortly.

There's also the option of mounting the tweeters in the sail panels. The PO provided them as hacked up so would it be worth my time to try it out since half the work is already done? How would this sound potentially?

Would you mind posting a link? I can't seem to find it on google. Cheers

I guess trimming the bottom of the gaiter would work just as well :scratch: but the I don't see how you can get away without chopping up the e-brake top cover.

Yep, the leather slides over the handle and the trimmed handbrake cover. It's actually good that you handbrake cover is fekked because you won't find it hard to trim it down. Mine doesn't stay in place well either so I'm planning to duct tape it in to place with strong tape and then when I get the right fit, put some glue on it so that the leather stays in one place. It's not a big deal if you hack up the under side of the e-brake console because no one will ever see it. The upper part will stay intact. If you want to see for yourself why you need to hack it up, be careful when you test fit the leather as it scratches easily and is very stubborn to fit in there. Nothing a little shoe die won't fix though :)

I'm waiting for the weather to go back to normal until I start experimenting again. It's pretty unpredictable here so it's hard to tell. I came to the conclusion that it's best to chop up these two parts: -center console support (pictured) -e-brake cover (trim on both sides until it easily slides into the e-brake console but be careful not to over trim until there's nothing left to hold it's upper part to the bottom part) - You'll see when you look at it, it will be pretty close. Basically you need enough clearance so that the leather will slide easily when wrapped around it. This is the path I took as I want it to look flat on top of the e-brake tunnel rather than look all loose as if it wasn't meant to be there originally. This pics shows how I hacked the e-brake console support in order for the leather not to crumple up and push up and give it an unnatural look at the top. Yes it sounds dumb explaining it but I wanted it to look factory.

Beware that you will need to chop up your center console a bit to get it to fit properly or else it will just look like it doesn't belong there. I got mine a while ago but I'm still in the middle of fitting it (been lazy). I can post up some pics if you guys need a hand. Other than that I think it's a great mod to do, the leather they sell seems good quality too, it has a good feel to it :lol:

It's certainly unique! I'm don't support body kits on Corrado's but I actually like that!

Try http://www.hostdub.com/ and see how that works for ya. People host massive pictures on there. High res or not though, those were really good and was surprised to hear that you don't have much experience.