quicky1980
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Everything posted by quicky1980
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R32 / 3.2 24v Audi conversion guide
quicky1980 replied to quicky1980's topic in [Archive] Wiki Submissions & Collaboration
Right V2 of the guide has been finished and uplaoded onto page one. In total I reckon Ive spent around 12hours putting this all together and to only find out the the 9mb MS Word file is too big to upload! :mad: So Ive had to convert it to a PDF for now. If I can work out how to further compress the word file I'll do that for V3. Anything highlighted in yellow means I need you guys to :help: me as I cant find the details on my records. Anything I have missed or made mistakes on, please feel free to comment about. In addition, if anyone wishes to repay me for this hard work, please contribute to the forum. Without the corrado forum the guide wouldnt exist. Anyone know of a better way to compress word docs down from 9mb to 2mb max? Ive already tried to compress the pictures and zip the files and cant get close to target! -
No probs, worth a try. I would be interested in the tailgate too, wouldnt want the wiper hole though...more details needed 16VG60!!
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looking good. Any chance you would part exchange your CF bonnet for a cf and fibreglass version?
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Hi Pete, glad to have you onboard!
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hi and welcome to the forum. Find out if you car is an early or late spec, this will help you narrow down the right parts. If your only wantinng the seats then it doesnt matter. Now are you wanting black or beige, standard or recaro, electric or not, heated or not? prices can range from £100 to £2000 :nuts: depending on what you want, so worth while being a little more specific :lol: .
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R32 / 3.2 24v Audi conversion guide
quicky1980 replied to quicky1980's topic in [Archive] Wiki Submissions & Collaboration
Ill try and answer you here, but will also review the guide to clarify/improve. I don't know anything about mk4 wiring (early), maybe it does plug straight in to the vr6 fuseboard :shrug: ?? But if we assume its the same as the mk5 (late) wiring then it's not a simple case of putting the engine in the car and plugging the loom straight into the fusebox. When you buy the r32/audi engine it will most likely come with its loom (engine loom) fitted, this loom will plug into the r32/audi ECU. The hard part is to find is the fusebox loom (fusebox to ecu) because most breakers/suppliers don't want the hassle of taking this out of the car as its very well impeded into the vehicle. If the engine loom is delivered damaged then this can be bought from audi/vw fairly cheap and in most cases cheaper than the scrap yards!! The fusebox loom costs a fortune new so ensure you get this second hand, you may not need a complete part as this will need to be modified any way Both the fusebox loom and engine loom plug into the ecu (audi and r32 ecu have two plugs on the ecu) which is the opposite to the vr6 setup where the fusebox loom is the only part that plugs into the ecu (vr6 ecu have one plug). If I can find a picture Ill put one up demonstrating this. Now, the engine loom doesn't need modifying, this can stay on the engine as is. The fusebox loom, as stated will NOT plug into the vr6 fusebox and I strongly suggest that you get someone who is proficient with wiring to do the work and youll understand why when you see the amount of wires that need cutting/deleting/joining. To splice the r32 loom, you need a vr6 fuse board loom and a r32 fuse board loom, both of which will be joined to make a vr6/r32 hybrid (obviousely vr6 fuseboard side and r32 ecu side). Once the hybrid loom is ready, the one end will plug into the ecu and have a few other wires going to the engine bay for lambdas, sensors etc. The other end will fit the vr6 fusebox as a normal loom. The vr6 fuseboard is designed so that most, if not all plugs cannot be plugged incorrectly and are colour coded to help. Plenty of sources on this forum of fuse board plugs. The only things that wont work on the dash are, MPG, Revs and possibly oil temp depending on how well the hybrid loom was created. MPG will never work as no one can work out how to have the old vr6 dash communicate with the new r32 ecu to make the calculations necessary. Revs can be sorted out using a CanBus adaptor. Oil Temp just needs a few wires and and temp sensor fitted to the engine. Flashing simply means your deleting/adding features within the ECU. Aftermarket alarm shouldnt be a problem as I think these normally use the starter motor circuit to immobilise the car which is a different circuit to the engine/fuseboard. But this depends on how the alarm installer did the work. If your still unsure, give SWICT a call. Theyve done a few now and will be able to help answer any questions. If your still not sure and your getting frustrated, PM me and I'' give you my mobile number so we can go through it on the line in return I only ask you give a few quid to the forum to keep it running. Ill see if I can get the guide updated, unfortunately GT5 on the playstation prob' wont let me. :grin: -
Just build the engine up in your garage (do you have one?), thats what I did as I use my car daily and needed it for work. Took me two weekends to fit it (ie 4 days), however I was happy for the weeks break to rest my muscles after removing the engine in the first place. Anyway, good luck and if I come across any "kits" ill pass them your way.
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As mentioned, this seems a bit expensive to me. Plus 72k isn't low mileage. To put it in to context, mine was a 2005 audi engine, 15k and also came with a months guarantee (read the small print, some exclude engine conversions). Got it for around a grand and that was about average a year ago!
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I've not fitted the 2.8, but there are allot of similarities in fitting. If I remember right, the 2.8's are taller and so you wont be able to fit the engine trim unless the bonnet is modded. Everyone seems to say that the 2.8 are easier to install :shrug: yet I thought the 3.2 was very straight-forward so cant see how it can be simpler :? If you get an early spec r32 it should be pretty much drop in (ignoring wiring, plumbing and exhaust etc), late r32's need fpr's and new aux bracket. Check out my build to see some pictures if it helps. Admittedly, the 2.8 is cheaper (about £400 cheaper according to the price of one going on here at the moment), but if your going to do the job isnt it better to fit the engine you want and not skimp on price? I made the mistake of fitting a vr6 as stop gap, worse mistake I made, ended up spending more money and still wanted the r32! Not sure what r32's are these days but when I was looking they were going for less than £1000. Even saw some sales for the whole setup for £2000. That link to ebay seems a rip off
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Right, as you guys have read. Things werent to great at the end of last year so my girlfriend and me needed cheering up.... mea.JPG[/attachment:3lskcqqc] Sorry about the poor picture quality. She was 8weeks old when we got her but now shes 3 months! Growing very quickly too! Car wise, not much news. Still need to wire in those seats
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Have you tried the search feature to find out ? :shrug:
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I looked on Edition, Piston Heads, Gumtreee etc etc Sometimes ebay Germany.I found mine on ebay UK in the end, you may just have to be patient. Dont forget that audi do/did the same engine so they aren't all called r32's. Just ensure you get all the parts you need off the car if you can. I bought just the engine and ended up searching high and low for the remaining parts for months afterwards. I do have a spare ECU if you get stuck. :shrug:
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get some pics up as you go through the work. may give us some good learning
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R32 / 3.2 24v Audi conversion guide
quicky1980 replied to quicky1980's topic in [Archive] Wiki Submissions & Collaboration
Hi ya, been very lazy and havent yet updated the guide. Its on my to do list though and I havent forgot about it. Tell you what, put up some questions that v1 doesnt answer and ill include the answers in the new guide. Sound fair? -
yup, they are the ones im on about. finding the late spec gauge is tough though. if yours is LHD you should have a better chance. plus they can still be bought new.
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you can get volt/oil gauges for early dashes. obviously a different design to the late versions. Good luck any way
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good point about the heater controls. If i remember correctly, some of those are now obsolete so may cause some headaches with the swap. I managed to buy them new at the time. Ultimately, the dash shell itself doesnt change, the bits that go in it do. So if you can get a hold of all the parts then its simple enough.
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Ultimate Dubs uk - Telford International Centre
quicky1980 replied to ozzit's topic in Event Announcements & Discussion
disappointing that there will be no corrado club stand inside (or did I miss something). been to a few of these before but never really enjoyed it. the artificial lights dont help. -
can be done, Ive done it. admittedly that bracket you mention is a problem but i couldnt find the late spec part but otherwise the centre consoles can be swapped from late to early and vice versa. dash doesnt need to come out. if you dont believe me wait for someone else to confirm or do a search
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i thought i answered your question?! but yes anyway
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I thought anything after 92 was a late spec though?
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the dash's are the same, the glove box handle, the centre consoles and vents can be changed to the later spec while the dash is in position
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Donjon's classic green storm. Return from yorkshire...
quicky1980 replied to Donjon's topic in Members Gallery
Excellent progress! Let me know if I can help out in anyway. -
what version corrado do you have? If its a vr it should be fairly straight forward. anything else will be possible but more involved
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Right, after trawling through the garage I managed to finally find it. Its the same loom that I sent you pic's of so it's yours once payment has been sent. You have PM for payment details