Kick Up The Rs

Hi All, Finally got myself a VR6 and I'm compiling a list of stuff that needs doing... So, I'm after the passenger side upper door card trim that sits on the door card against the window. I think the part is 535868503A. Where can I get one of these? Cheers, Nick

Hi Leo, yes interested but not sure if you received my PM as they appear to bounce. Please PM details and I'll see if I receive them. Thanks Nick

Hi all, The itch for another Corrado has returned, despite me being away for the best part of 8 or so years, enjoying TVR ownership. I regretted selling my beloved G60 and at one point I was searching for the new owner to see if I could buy it back, but it never happened. Anyway, I'm looking for a nice sub 100k-mile Corrado VR6, std or modded, if anybody has one up for grabs or who knows of one going, then please let me know. Many thanks in advance, Nick.

Been away for 8 years having sold my G60 to pursue TVR ownership. They said 'you will be back'. Here I am and I'm now in a fortunate position to buy a nice VR6, so I am on the lookout for a sub 100k mile car. Would appreciate any feelers /leads! Cheers, Nick

Wow, my old car. Sold this back in 2008. I spent loads of time and effort getting it to the condition I wanted - glad to see she still looks good. :-)

Hi, Can anyone tell me if it's possible to get either new or second hand near-side inner door seal and near side rear quater panel glass outer rubber? Some b*****d has jus tried to get in and failed... Any help would be appreciated thanks

Thanks guys, I have a working ignition barrel and keys, passat de-locked handles and the rogue boot lock. There's a lock set on ebay at the mo. which includes steering column and lock, so may be worth a look... Ta

Is this possible? I had a look, but the barrel looks a solid unit to me I'm desperate to get a working boot lock as I lost my keys and I now have the passat handles fitted. Somehow I just don't trust my RCL Cheers

Sorry, Yes ignition advance at 2k RPM, blue temp sender disconnected. And the good thing is the engine bay looks totally stock...

This is really interesting as I can now recall that when my local indy did my cam belt i noticed that my dynamic timing was miles out and i had to re-adjust the timing... :confused4: Also, since the cambelt was changed I've been suffering from what I thought was little end knocking with the engine warm - not pinking though. Anyway, since shifting the cam belt by one notch the noise hase completely disappeard. Incidently the Shrick cam is bloody marvelous and I have a dynamic advance of 7 deg which really livens things up! A very good thread too...

With the flywheel set to 0 degrees by using the gearbox end did you find that the camshaft pulley aligns correct or that is half a tooth out? Yanards, Well its a strange one, I checked last night with my cam belt one tooth corrected to what it came off and the dot 'almost' lines up with top of the head (about 2mm out). Fitted the belt as it was before I swapped the cam and the inner dot is 'miles off' So I can conlude, the belt was one tooth out, but now is correct and 'almost' lines up with the top of the head. The cap is off and the rotor arm sits about 4 deg clockwise of the notch with the flywheel at tdc so i assume all is correct...

Thanks, Well, I've just spoken to Darren and my original cam alignment was correct. The lip on the outer cover is a bit misleading. Correct timing is when a straight edge is placed along the top of the head (no gasket in place) lining up with the inner single dot on the pulley. So, I'll be moving mine back a tooth before I start the engine...

This is interesting. I installed my Shrick cam courtesy of G-werks last night. As my cam belt is only a few hundred miles old, I thought it would be a good idea just to slacken the tensioner and lift the belt off whist swapping the cam (marking the relevant position on the belt and pulleys beforehand). So before removing the belt, I rotated the engine to tdc on the flywheel I inserted a screwdriver in the pulley between the two timing dots on the outside of the pully and it did not line up with the lip on right hand side of the cam cover (the screwdriver went into the cavity in the head just beneath the cam cover). It was one tooth out. I have timed it correctly with the new cam but have yet to fire her up as I need to put it all back together. The question is, what would the long term effects of running a tooth out on the PG engine?

Thanks All, Can anybody tell me the maximum height i/c that will fit between the subframe and slam panel?? (hope its less than 420mm) !!1

Oh thats a terrible shame. dont like to see things like this happen :(

Thanks, But isnt the Gwerks one based on a golf G60 unit? I also understand that Gwerks no longer produce this replica..... :(

Really like the look of this and was just wondering whether anybody had fitted one to their C? 1. Ease of fitment? Does the rad have to move rearwards? 2. HP gains? Done a search thru the Forums but not a great deal on the Pitstop offering... Advanced my ignition by 1 deg today and the results were very good, so me needs an new intercooler to push things a little further... Thanks

Have a look on G-Werks site at their flowed heads. They give flow rates and equivalent BHP figures

I concur with Stormcharged. I gave mine several coats of tint, flatted them with 1500 wet and dry. Then 5 coats or so of lacquer and again flatted them back. I then used G10 and T-cut to bring em back to OEM style. The finish is simply amazing, even though I say myself. Jus make sure u leave the laquer for 24 hours to harden before you attack them with the wet and dry.

What's the point if a CNC flowed G60 head is just as good as a 16V head...? I'll get my coat.

The way I checked my rear mount was with engine running, see if you can easily push the rear of the engine down on to the mount using hand force. If so, yup it'll need doing. If you do change, go for a Febi mount and stay clear of the GSF patern ones otherwise you'll have even more vibration!

Wow they look good painted, as do the overlays. Time for a trip to Halfords for some tint me thinks

OK, I bought some rears but I had real trouble making the overlap nice and smooth thus ended up with loads of creases on the edges. I ended up with the hump and removing them. So how do I do 'em properly, if I were to buy some more?

I've heard good things about this unit, So I've just gone and ordered one from Caraudiosecurity. Anyway, was wondering as to the best way of mounting this unit in boot and preferred location. Any pics of an install will be greatly received. Cheers in advance

Thanks Phil, Spoke to the dealer who supplied the car new and they said the car is too old to supply new keys based on chassis no. etc. But the problem has just got worse. I managed to lose a key fob an ign key late yesterday. I think i left my C keys on the roof of my wifes car before driving off in it... So Im afraid of leaving the car on my drive now... I suppose the easy solution is to get a complete set of locks off a breaking C. So a wanted ad is going to appear! BTW I put it all down to jet lag and not resting enough! NVM