Henny

yup, stick some Quantum silver (good quality, semi synthetic available cheap from VW) in there to top it up... It'll mix with no problems and is the recommended oil for Corrado engines anyway... 8)

kevhaywire, Andi's added a new feature to the forum... hold your mouse over the red writing... ;) 8)

swfblade, an LSD or 4x4 is the answer... ;) TajMan, at a guess you'd be looking slightly over 200bhp (@flywheel) with that spec, but your torque will be WAY more and start way lower down the rev range as the rest of the people above mention... Personally, after you've installed an uprated oil cooler (a must for all G60s in my opinion) I'd get yourself the biggest intercooler you can squeeze in there to make maximum use of the boost you do have before starting to mess with anything else... 8)

yup, I request a Hiab straight out now... and they know me well enough to send it too... :oops: :roll: :lol:

I've been thinking about this mod for a while... I'm lobbing about 25K miles a year onto my Corrados, so it makes sense to put a TDI in the car and then get a different chip on it... ;) Plus the fact that J-DUB owes me nothing at all (in fact, I'm now in profit from buying her back!) it seems a shame not to try it at least! ;) :lol:

fag lighter illumination: brown = earth grey with blue tracer = lighting circuit... Patience is a vitue... (or something like that anyway, I could never be bothered to listen to the rest of it... ;) )

sell the C? never... Transplant a TDI into it? maybe... ;) :lol:

gradeAfailure, yeah, I know what you mean... I started off with AirCooled dubs and have worked my way through working on just about all of those and most of the watercooled stuff too (upto about '93) Some of the comments we got at the Beetle garage I worked at when we started to work on MKI GTIs were just unreal... :roll:

if it's just the belt that's given up, and you stopped before the engine stopped for you, then you should be OK with just fitting a new belt... 8) Have the belts been replaced that you know of? May be worth getting the Cam belt (and tensioner) and Power steering belts done while it's in bits anyway... ;)

268K? Sheeeeeeeeiiiiiiiitttttt.... I'd better get J-DUB back on the road sharpish to try and pass that! ;) :lol:

These modulators work really well... only down side is that they're actually illegal to use in the country... :| However, the chances of you getting caught are slim to bugger all, so go for it... ;) There won't be any radio crackle/interference from other stations as nothing in the UK at the moment transmits (legally) on 107.7 'cos that's right up at the end of the dial... The "surround sound" bit means that it'll try and send any extra embedded digital info that the device connected to it can supply... the odds are that your radio won't know what to do with it so will just put it through the speakers as normal... but it does sound good doesn't it... ;) :lol: p.s. I'm a radio broadcast engineer for a living... ;)

use manufacturers specs if you're running standard width/diameter tyres... Rear brakes grabbing can easily be seen if you jack up the rear of the car... Have a look at the handbrake mechanism when the brake is off, the cam that moves when the handbrake is applied should move ALL the way back to the end stop/rest on the caliper when the handbrake is released. If it doesn't (on either caliper) it needs replacing... (yes, I know you can clean 'em up and get another few months out of 'em, but they will turn around and bite you in the ass.... this is how I wrote my first Corrado off... :| )

Fag lighter illumination... ;) easy to get at too.... 8)

Andi, down boy! You know I'm not like that :lol: :roll: (and neither's Steve...)

erm, Andi, Boss, mate, you're wrong... :| The side wall measurement (30, 35, 40, 45 etc) is a percentage of the WIDTH of the tread on the tyre.... A 195 50 16 will have the same (or very similar) rolling radius to a 205 45 16 or a 195 45 17.... a 205 50 16 will be quite a lot bigger rolling radius and WILL show up on your speedo readings... :| (all numbers picked randomly to show what I mean...) *edit* feck, I've not had that much to drink tonight that I can miss 3 posts have I?!? :oops: :lol:

I've just dropped from 17" Masitaly wheels to 16" Borbet Cs... I can tell that the ride quality is better on the 16s than it was on the 17s which weigh about the same amount.... The cornering also seems better, but that could be due to the extra width of the 16s... :|

cheers kev, you've just answered a question I was about to ask.... 8) *goes off to buy something on ebay...*

feck me, drive anywhere with bright sunlight in that.... I dare you! :? :| Looks really nice, but I'd bet it'd be an utter get to keep clean and actually drive around with... :|

MikeVR6, they're the only 2 things which control the interior dash lights... the fuse and the dimmer switch.... My first port of call would be to pull the lightswitch out and have a look at the resistive coil and it's sweeper contacts to make sure you've not fried anything there... :|

I hate visiting this forum when drunk... there goes another £51... :oops: :lol: 8)

I can't believe you're not gonna rehone the block Steve! Standard rings from your place are only a few quid per cylinder and the loan of a honeing tool is gonna cost you less than a couple of pints... :roll: A complete rebuild of the top end which you then mate back onto an unknown bottom end is gonna result in an engine which WILL pass oil past the rings 'cos the increased seals in the valve guides will cause the vacuum in the cylinders to draw oil past the old, tired rings and therefore burn oil even faster than it was before....... that turns into an ever decreasing circle with a complete failure (and a large bill!) in the center... :| For the cost of the rings and the use of the honing tool, why not do it?!? :? Hell, gimme a call and I'll pop down with my mates honing tool and do it myself! :lol: ;) (at least that'd sort the carbon deposits anyway! ;) :lol: ) Don't forget that you've already had a muppet install a paper head gasket on that engine... God knows what else they've done to the bottom end in the past... :? :|

benji16v, plates just have to be readable, clean and not cracked for an MOT... There's nothing about the typeface in the MOT rules... ;) What's wrong with your rear lights to make you think they'll fail?

From a non-VR6 owning point of view (and from someone who really has almost no experience of VR6s) that looks horribly like a dodgy earth/connection somewhere to me... :| Throttle, transmission and fluid temps all reporting intermittent would make me think about checking all the multi-plugs for green contacts/cracked/ill fitting wiring connections where the connections for these sensors are breaking down.... :| Especially that BIG connector on the side of the engine I've seen pictured before... ;) Of course, not owning/having owned a VR, I could be barking up the complete wrong tree.... :roll: :oops:

yup, with ya all the way there Andi... J-DUB was on almost 250K miles when I decided to rebuild the engine (well, it pre-empted me slightly... :oops: ) and my new grey C has 150K on it and is still pulling like a good 'un.... 8)

phew! I thought I was loosing the plot there! :lol: Thanks for clearing that up... 8)