Henny

Welcome to The Forum... 8) I guess you like the noise of your car a little bit then?!? ;) :lol:

I've split this into it's own thread... Good idea dr_mat... 8)

6 IS the center cap removal tool... fits the Seibring and BBS wheels' centers... 8)

that's expensive... it's more than I'm paying for my heavily modded G60 and I'm only 28 and it's getting an agreed value of around 9K!

the ECU adjusts the timing signal slightly to give the advance and retardation needed for the engine to run properly. It gets this signal from the halll effect sender in the dizzy so that it knows: A) RPM and B) position of the dizzy (and therefore where to spark) I have no idea past that point if the ECU can vary the timing of each individual spark or not, but it's sounding like it may be able to... :S One thing that may be worth trying is to rotate the dizzy 90 degrees and put the leads on correctly for that position... if the fault doesn't move then it's a lead, rotorarm, or cap... 8)

yup, only the face lift interior has 2 switches... Early interiors (as benji16v says) have one switch where click one = front only, click 2 = fronts and rears...

You've got me stumped anyway 'nanaman... :| The only points that I can think of are the ECU, dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads or hall sender, but as you've already tried all but the ECU, that's the only point left I can think of... :| It's fecking odd anyway, hope you get it sorted soon... :)

check the multi plug which connects onto the ECU, specifically, you're looking for dodgy wires which are either cracked or disconnected... I know of 3 1.4 MKIII golfs which have all had similar problems related to this multiplug being pants... :wink: The revs to get going thing sounds like a crap clutch...

unless you're planning on moving to a high bit of Scotland (or maybe some bits of Wales) where it gets really cold and snowy and stuff, IMHO you should be OK... 8)

Yup, I can confirm he did have 'cos I asked him about it today! :D :lol: 8) Didn't ask him if he'd still got it though... :oops: He came in to do an interview and spotted me getting out of J-Dub, then mentioned it while I was setting up the mics for his interview... 8) Seemed like a nice bloke, and totally off his rocker (but in a nice way! ;) )

if that is low (and off hand I don't know if it is or not) check the engine pipework for boost leaks... When was the charger last rebuilt (and who by?)? Low boost pressure could be the sign of a dodgy seal if it's suddenly gone down...

It's there 'cos when the air is too cold (and the engine is cold too) the inlet system can ice up which causes the car to run like a sack of spanners... :) The warm air feed is there to prevent this from happening and should have a vacuum acutated flap to block it off when the engine warms up enough to not run the risk of icing being a problem... 8) Thing is that it very rarely gets cold enough for this to be a problem in this country on an fuel injected car... the G60s (and vr6s I think) don't have this feed, and I know I removed it (as well as a VERY large amount of the bottom of the airbox!) when I had my 16V golf with no bad effects... 8)

I've seen a Euro 'rado which had the fogs removed for just that purpose Kev, and they used some silver fine mesh to make a foglight looking inlet on both sides... 8) Looked pretty damned good too... :) 8)

they'll be even better when I get my Butt in gear and fit the senders and get 'em working... :oops: :roll:

smear a little grease onto the O rings before fitting and that's about it... 8)

It's off an Audi 80 sport and I got it from Struan (bigeastsideG60) from on here, but you should be able to get one from a scrap yard reasonably easily... It needs a whole hell of a lot of work to make it fit there, but yeah, that's where it goes... have a look in my members gallery to see it... (around page 2 I think... )

:roll: :lol: I'll lock this one then... 8)

Well, Feck it... I've just ordered the pipes from Bar-Tek... Cheers for that link Jim... 8) A smidgen over £300 and I'll have some shiney bits on my engine! :D 8)

make sure you've got the vacuum hose from the throttle to the ECU on the correct nipple on the back of the T/B... if it's on the wrong one you'll confuse the hell outta the ECU... :| It's not something really silly like you've got the plug leads (wires) on in the wrong order is it? I've done this myself and sworn loudly when I realised! ;) :lol:

they're only wider in the arch and top, the recess where the bumper fits into is the same... 8)

the fog lamp blank and reflector will be on the opposite sides, but that shouldn't make too much of a problem as (IIRC) most of the after market lamps have 2 fog lamps instead... 8)

fan repair will cost you about £1 if you do it yourself... ;) Sunroof could be something REALLY simple like the cover on the manual crank hole wasn't closed properly, or a dead switch... For that kinda money, (£1850 at the mo) it's definately worth it IMHO.. 8)

new (not recon!) engines don't really need running in anymore... In fact, the evidence is slowly building to prove that they actually last longer and perform better if used properly from day 1! Engine and machining technology has moved on sooo far so fast that manufacturers just leave the running in clause in as a get out... also to stop every fast car/bike being written off by people jumping on one and ragging it from the outset before they've got to know how it handles... ;) :lol:

the frameless ones are the early ones... the ones you need are the late ones.. 8)