Henny

could be worth slinging a new oil pump in while you clean out the sump... At least that way you know that if the light comes on, it's just an error rather than a proper warning... 8)

Mmmmm, amazing what a difference a few bolts and some polish can make isn't it... :wink: 8)

That's what I need to know from someone who's got the later red/orange needles... :roll: :wink: All of the clocks I've got have got white plastic needles on 'em... if VW already made ones that can be used, then it's gonna be a whole shed load easier to take a set of them into a manufacturers to get 'em copied, than to design and manufacture something completely new... :?

Again, powered by the engine so the noise would change with engine speed, not road speed.... :-P

Expensive? depends on how you do it... :wink: Lots of work? Yes! :? :roll: Worth it? Hell yes! :wink: 8)

Yup, you needed to use G12+ else G11 or G12 can react with other coolants and become a jelly like sludge that blocks up every waterway and is generally nasty... :| G12+ DOES NOT react with other coolants so you'll never have this problem... 8)

Snap! 90/130 Bosch bulbs... 2 for £20! 8) Should make things a bit brighter when the car hits the road again with one of Gav's loom! :wink: :lol:

Doubt it Gazza, if the noise changes with car speed, but not with engine speed, it's VERY unlikely to be anything on the engine... Don't forget to ask about the bearings while they're doing your tyres Dan! Cheapest way of getting 'em checked I can think of... :wink: 8) :lol:

For the price of it, get G12+ and have the peace of mind that you're running on the stuff that VW designed for your engine! 8) It's pretty cheap from Euro and GSF for genuine G12+ 8)

The sensor on the rad is the fan switch... it has nothing to do with the water temp gauge. I can't remember where the water temp sensor is on the 16V KR lumps, but I'll have a look when I get home tonight and let you know if no-one here posts the answer before hand... 8) If the top hose is hot, and the bottom stays cold, you could well have a blocked/dead thermostat. (lives in the bottom of the waterpump) If you're loosing water, start with the cheap easy things first: Check all the pipe joins for leaks, check around the radiator for leaks, check the water flanges on the head/block for leaks, Have a close look at the metal water pipe that runs around the front of the engine and over the top of the gearbox (it rots and gets pin-holes in it!) Fit a new expansion tank cap, and see if any of that little lot helps (total cost, a couple of hours looking at your engine and about £15 for a cap!) 8) If that little lot doesn't help, time for a pressure check/leak test... :? :| Good luck, enjoy your new car, and welcome to the forum! 8)

that'll be the bit that's in contact with the ground then! :roll: :wink: :lol: I dunno if it is that or not, but I've just found out that the "dead front bearings" on my Golf is actually crap tyres making all the noise... :roll: :lol: Saves me having to strip the front suspension to get the bearings pressed out at least! 8)

umm, dunno where it is... :oops: I'll see if I can find it tomorrow night when I get chance (gotta fit CD player to mum and Dad's Leon tonight and then go to the pub! ;) ) 8) I'll definately dig it out on Friday night though, 'cos I'm hopefully picking my moonroof up on Sunday! :wink: 8) :lol: *Edit - sometimes I amaze myself with how much of a muppet I can be... :oops: :roll: Fresh from my Bookmarks list.... TRY HERE! ;)

Standard green injectors are 280 cc 8)

Could well just be tyre noise from your dead tyres then! :roll: Get some new ones on, and while they're fitting them, casually ask about the wheel bearings... :wink: :lol: 8)

8) Ta! :wink: 8)

If you dip the clutch and the noise stays the same, it's not the clutch or any of the engine components. 8) It's likely to be a dead wheel bearing, or it could be tyre noise if you've had new tyres recently...

:roll: :roll: :lol: Can you post up the part numbers you're buying as these will be really useful for when people (including me! :wink: ) decide to do this on their C... 8)

holy sh!$£, a MKI K-jet with a lift pump... :crazyeyes: you live and learn... :oops: :roll: :lol:

Yup, the last of the MKI cabs were digifant and so had the lifter pump... K-jet ones never did though... 8) I spotted that on Etka as well last night! :wink:

Cool, you can give me a hand putting a new lock in mine then... :wink: :lol: My key is sooooo worn after 250,000 miles that it won't open any of the other locks properly any more! :roll: :?

yup, use the search and type in "moonroof AND passat" There's a couple of REALLY good threads on it that have inspired me to get hold of one for my 'rado while it's off the road... ;) The passat roof (around 90 -> 93) is the one to go for! 8)

Yup, my advice (and only my advice, I only speak from my own bitter experience here!) is to avoid Jabba like the plague if you're after a supercharger rebuild... They just don't want to know and seem to be using sub-standard parts in their rebuilds recently... My charger had less than 14K on it and ALL of the bearings and most of the seals were shot less than 16months (4 of which it'd been off the road!) after a stage 4 rebuild done at Jabba... :| :( G-Werks (Darren) did a rebuild on mine for me and looks to have (I've not opened it! :-P ) done a lovely job on it for a better rate than Jabba was charging and with a whole hell of a lot better after sales too! 8)

ETKA says that all K jet MKI Golfs had only one pump, cabrio or otherwise. The thing in the tank is the fuel gauge sender... The thing to do is to remove the fuel main fuel pipe into the metering head and secure it into a glass container, turn on the ignition and see if you get a real JET of petrol out of it, or a little trickle... (you may need to turn it on and off a couple of times to get it to fire... If it's a trickle, you're pump's probably dead, or the gauze filter at the bottom of the fuel tank is blocked. To get at the gauze filter, remove the gauge sender and if you shine a torch (use a good waterproof one so you don't get any sparks!!!) into the hole you should be able to see a plastic and mesh filter right at the bottom of the tank. Put a magnet on the end of a stick and move it around the gauze to remove all the rust debris from around the filter. If there's loads of rust in there, then you'll need a new filler neck and possibly have to drain the tank and clean it out properly (also change the fuel filter afterwards as this will be blocked again!) If it's a jet of fuel, turn it all off, reconnect it and remove the feed to the fuel pressure regulator (bolted to the gearbox end of the engine) again, get the pump to fire and see what comes out... reconnect and try the return from the regulator... You can probably guess which bits to test after this as K-Jet is dead simple and nearly always is broken due to debris in the fuel system! :roll: :wink: I'd be suprised if you'd managed to kill a new pump that quickly, they're pretty robust and tend to keep working just complain loudly for a bit before they die! On a different though, have you checked the fuel pump relay? Could be faulty and have been known to make the pump noisy due to intermittent connections... :|

Firstly, you really need a slap for a pun that bad... :lol: Secondly, RW Wheels are a fairly old wheel manufacturers based near Ghent, Belgium. Their address is: RW Wheels S.A. I.P. - Tulpenstraat, 3 - 9810 Eke Nazareth T : 09/385.50.93 F : 09/385.55.93 Their web page is http://www.rw-wheels.dk/ but it doesn't seem to work anymore... :? French retailer is: Concord Wheels 2480 Route de Lille - Nouveau Monde 59270 BAILLEUL Tel: 03 28 49 23 97 Fax: 03 28 49 20 78 I can't seem to find any other information other than that though... :| My guess is that the wheel is called a "high tech3" wheel though... :wink: :roll: 8) Ain't google Ace?!? :wink: :lol:

do a search for speakers, or have a look in the Ice'N'Secure topic as there is LOADS of info on speakers in there... General feeling is that it's different strokes for different folks, but I've yet to talk to someone who doesn't like the focals or the MB Quarts... ;) 8)