Henny

Welcome to the Forum... 8) The search button up at the top is your friend... Type in "VR6 AND ISV" and you'll get loads of info on how to check 'em, how to clean 'em and how much they are to buy new... 8)

To crack most of these new "copy-protected" CDs, just press and hold SHIFT when you put it into the CD-ROM drive... :wink: :roll: :lol: I didn't tell you this of course... you read about it on "the web somewhere..." :wink: :roll:

yeah yeah.... I neva sed I cud spel... :roll: :lol: :wink: *makes mental note - AL not LE... *

Sods, mine used to be A, it's now C... That'll be why the conning sods want 2K to insure my 'rado next year... :|

mmm... Brakes can happily get to 2 or 3 hundred degrees C under SERIOUS braking manouvers... I've boiled the brake fluid in a MKII golf GTI before now, and that was rated at 250Deg C! :crazyeyes: For the slight extra, I'd go for some proper caliper paint that should be rated to about 250/300 degrees and won't cause you any problems what-so-ever... 8) this all depends on your style of driving of course! :wink: :roll: :lol:

...and quite an old one at that! :roll: :wink: :lol:

They'll deliver to your work if you asked them! 8)

It's correct.... After lowering the car, you need to re-set the bias valve else you'll end up with too much brake bias to the rear of the car making it unstable (rear end locks up before the front).... It's the same on most VW cars... It's easy to do, but you do need either a pit, or a set of 4 post lifts so you can get under the car while it's on it's wheels... IIRC you just undo one nut, move the adjuster valve to it's upper position and then tighten the nut again... 8) Job done... It makes one hell of a difference if you've lowered your car a lot and have to hit the brakes hard... :|

I was actually gonna build in a few LEDs to give the different colours behind each part of the panel... I'll post up some pics to see how it looks... 8)

They only won't play 'em for the first month or so until someone cracks 'em like they did with DVD players! :wink: :lol:

Hooray!!! Jim's back in a 'rado! 8) It's a nice one too IIRC... 8)

I dunno RACK... Having looked in your gallery I reckon that the wheels you've got should clear the Brembos... Where abouts are you based? You may find a nice person close by that has the conversion that's willing to allow you to try your wheel on their car to make sure it clears... That's how I did it :wink: 8)

Viper99 Where are you from? Is your car left or right hand drive?!? :roll: :lol:

Even with a 9mm spacer they're flippin' close, but they fit with enough room for safety... 8) The design of the spoke MUST be such that they attach to the hub of the wheel further towards the outer side of the wheel than it's mounting face... Looking at your avatar, the spokes on your wheels appear to curve back in when they get to the rim which may mean that they won't clear... :? The only way you can guarantee that they'll fit is to try your wheel on someone's car that's got the conversion fitted, or to have exactly the same wheels as someone who's already got them on a converted car... :|

Brembo conversion is Disks, 4pot Brembo calipers (including pads!) carrier convertors (so you can bolt the new calipers onto your car!) and then you need a pair of braided hoses made up so that you can connect the calipers to your existing hydraulic brake system... AFAIK only a couple of types of 15" wheels will fit, flat designed 16" (Like the Borbet C :wink: ) and quite a few 17" wheel will fit over these brakes... The design of the spokes is critical as to whether they'll fit over the calipers or not... :? Hope this clears things up for you a bit... 8)

I disagree... It can't be a hydraulic problem if the clutch NEVER bites... If the clutch hydraulics fail, then in effect, you can't press the clutch peddle so you can't make the clutch release. If the clutch is permanently released (IE you can put it into any gear with the engine running without the car moving anywhere or the box grinding) then the friction plate has worn out, the release plate's springs have gone (so it's always released) or the shaft that the release bearing is on has jammed creating the effect of always having the peddle pressed down... or worse, you've killed the gearbox's input shaft... :? From what was said about it going weird before hand, my bet is on the release bearing mechanism having jammed/twisted causing it to lock on keeping the clutch released... :?

keep us informed! Well chuffed for the guy that he got it back intact! 8)

Firstly, Welcome to the Forum... 8) Secondly, don't you just hate busses?!? I hope no one was in the car at the time... :? Thridly, yup it does sound slightly suspect... BUT the guy could be being completely honest with you about the car and is just using the wrong terms... As Rodders suggests, get the reg number and phone VW and ask them when it was last serviced and when the next one is due... That's how I confirmed that my G60 had been clocked... :| Also, if it is the V5 he's lost, tell him he won't be able to sell it to anybody unless he applies for a new one and if he starts being funny, walk away! Car with no V5 could be anything or anybodies... :? Quite a few Corrados now have 100+ K miles on them, and, as long as they've been looked after, this shouldn't be too much of a problem... 8) The engines are all pretty strong and take the milage well, but there are weak points that you need to be aware of when looking at them... Fortunately, VR6 compiled a rather useful buyers guide which you can find HERE 8)

yup, cynic No.2 here too... :wink: :lol: If you listen to their blurb in the intro to the video, it's just a magnet that they strap around the fuel line "to polarise the fuel molecules".... :| Utter pants... :roll: :lol: This is, of course, only my opinion :-P

I've got a second hand one of these on its way to me at the moment... I think I know of a cheap mod that you can do to them to get around this problem once and for all... :wink: bear with me for a little while until it arrives and all will become clear (and illuminated! :lol: ) 8)

Brake caliper paint is great for this use... 8) Available all over the place in a range of colours.... 8) God, that sounded like an advert didn't it?!? :? :roll: :lol:

:roll: :lol: :lol:

almost certainly a dodgy bulb... It could be a wiring fault, but I'd change the bulb first to see if that cures it 8)

A lot more than Jabba..... Oohhh, Harsh.... Fair but harsh! :wink: :lol: Seriously though n8047035, have a look at those instructions and see what you think about taking the charger off... If not a reasonable garage should be able to take it off for you for about an hours labour... I'd highly reccommend sending the charger to Darren (G-werks) for a check over just for your peace of mind... I just did and the mess he found inside the charger was quite scarey when you consider that it had been rebuilt less than 12K and 9 months (of use) earlier by a different (won't name 'em, but you know who I mean! :wink: ) company... :shock:

Best fluid is DOT 5.1 It's not affected by water, has a VERY high boiling point and doesn't affect your seals, the make doesn't matter much as long as it says DOT5.1 on it... 8) DO NOT use plain DOT5 as it will rot the seals in the calipers and cylinders.. :shock: