Henny
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Everything posted by Henny
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Phone Darren at G-Werks... He'll probably have 'em in stock too! (pm'd you the number!)
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Please don't flood the forum with multiple posts asking the same question. I've removed your other posts before anyone answered to keep all the answers in a single thread. Thanks.
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To remove the injectors, pull! :roll: :lol: Seriously, on a 1.8 16v (KR) you just grip them by the top of the injector (around the nut that locks the fuel pipe on) and give 'em a good old yank to get them out... you may find that giving them a slight twist first loosens them so you can get them out... DO NOT YANK ON THE FUEL PIPES THOUGH! To test it, remove the coil lead from the coil, take one injector out and place it into a jamjar, turn on the ignition and crank the car over... you should get fuel in a nice spray into the jam jar... do this for a couple of seconds until you have a level in the jar you can measure (while timing how long you're cranking for!). Put that injector back into the engine (push hard!), mark the fuel level and then throw the fuel away (or put it back into the tank!) and then try the dodgy injector for the same amount of time. If you get the same amount of fuel in the same amount of time, then it's unlikely to be the injector that's at fault... 8) There is a way of firing the fuel pump by shorting the hall sender connector, but I don't have the details with me at work... :? DISCLAIMER! If you don't fully understand any of these instructions, DO NOT TRY IT YOURSELF! playing with high pressure fuel is not fun if you get it wrong and will almost certainly make your insurance company laugh at you and walk away from any claim you try to make after getting it spectacularly wrong! :onfire: P.S. cylinder closest to dizzy is No.4 :roll: :lol:
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the only way you'll be able to tell if the box is goosed is if you drop all the oil out and sift thru it for metal debris... I'd stick some new oil in it, see if that helps, then check it in a couple of hundred miles to make sure that all looks OK... 8)
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well, as a first off, CHANGE THE OIL! :lol: :lol: :lol: :roll: Also check that the front mount isn't loose or anything daft like that... It's possible that one of the bolts has come loose.. may also be worth checking the rear engine mount, as you've already said you've changed the other 2... 8)
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aren't the relays for the heated seats around there somewhere? I dunno for certain 'cos I've only got the fabric seats, but I remember reading something about that... :roll:
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...could be... [/Hong Kong Phooey] :wink:
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yeah, I agree Tempest, last year was my first Inters and I wasn't that impressed... It had all the bare bones to be a great show, and a fantastic (if somewhat remote!) site, but just didn't seem to "gel" together into a good show due to the organisation (both lack of and/or overbearingness of!) I loved that there were so many clubs with such big stands... That was the only thing that was making me REALLY want to go this year... now that's not happening, I can't see the point... I'll go to Action, VWNW, Stanford hall, BVF and dubfreeze, but I'm pretty certain that Inter's is now off my list.... :|
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Or mud/ road crud stuck between the CV joint heat shield and the drivers side inner CV joint?!? :wink: Just a thought... 8)
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If you do both, you should get a better benefit than just doing either one.... 8) I've had my exhaust manifold ported and have a new Miltek downpipe from JMR (16VG60) which will result in something similar to your 4branch, and I've got a full stainless system on with a custom cat-bypass and most of the tuners I've spoken to agree that this should help with the torque... 8) The 4 branch should flow better than the standard manifold will, due to it's design and the length that it has to join the 4 branches together, rather than having to join to 2 in the relatively small space of the exhaust manifold...
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Sod it, I'll not bother with Inters then, I'm up for that... 8) I'll PM you a bit closer to the date, but can you do me a favour and let me know when you book your ferry tickets so I can make sure I'm on the same one as you! 8) :wink:
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:shock: :shock: :shock: 1001bhp?!? 0-100kmh in 2.9 seconds?!? and LIMITED to 400kmh???? that's just SILLY... I soooooo want one.... :wink: :roll: :lol: :mrgreen:
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I've read about some people having this problem before... The simple answer was to file the holes in the tailgate a little so that the lights can be aligned perfectly with the outer lights... 8) don't forget to put a dob of anti-rust paint on the bits you've filed if you do this though! :wink:
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VWs official figures have always been given for a complete car (not stripped out like some manufacturers :roll: ) with half a tank of normal fuel, 2 passengers and luggage...
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I'm annoyed as hell about it... Dubforce has been invited, and they're only a couple of months old, yet a forum with 1000+ members with some of the best cars in the country hasn't been... utter madness.... :mad: I really do think that the organisers haven't got a clue what the people want, which tends to be to see some top class cars displayed... not half a dozen stands of 5 cars... How do you invite 5 people from a forum of 1000+ people!?!? According to one guy I spoke to, the plots aren't even big enough to get 5 cars on anyway! :roll: :| I'm tempted to say "sod it" and go to the european 'rado/'rocco one the weekend after instead... :wink: which is a shame 'cos Inters was going to be the show where I really tried to get my 'rado looking spot on to show it properly... :roll:
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Sounds to me like your linkage just needs re-adjusting to get it to be where it should be... 8) The cables stretch over the life of the car, and the gearchange starts to get worse, but by re-adjusting it, you can get it back to how it should be... 8) Have a search for "gear AND adjust" and see what crops up... I know I've seen the adjustment guide here somewhere... :wink:
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What all of the above are saying is that you should check behind your stereo for a blue and white wire which should not be connected to anything... :roll: :lol: It's in the car to alter the volume of the original stereo so that it gets louder the faster you get, but most people who fit stereos don't know that, so they connect it to the aux power feed which stops the spoiler getting the correct signals to raise and lower automatically... :? :roll: If it's not that, it could be that your relay/control unit is faulty... It lives under the dash, just by the manual switch.... 8)
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who's the daddy? who's got the biggest wheels on there car?
Henny replied to hustler's topic in Engine Bay
I really don't understand this fascination that some people have with slinging HUGE wheels under their car... (Monster trucks excluded! :lol: ) Going REALLY big really doesn't help the ride quality or handling in any way what-so-ever... :roll: :| I think that a nice 16" is pretty much universally acknowledged to be the best size for corrados being a good compromise between looks and ride comfort... 8) Just my 2p worth... *Ker-plink!* -
The two sizes are 50mm and 90mm and I'm pretty sure that's measured in the middle... They are interchangable, all you have to do is jack the front of the car up and undo the couple of hundred* bolts that holds it on, swap it over, and put the bolts back in... Easy... 8) * this may be a slight exaggeration, but it feels that way when you've got to undo 'em all!! :wink:
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Could be wheel bearings... :? Also, check the rubber strip across the top of the windscreen, there's a plastic insert in it that sometimes comes unclipped and causes one hell of a lot of wind noise!
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Dave? you can't say anything about silly names... The guy that I was going to get 'em made by has quoted £40 per set for the needles, so I told him to naff off... I'm now looking for a different manufacturer... :roll: Has anyone got a good close up photo of a set of clocks with the red needles (standard ones, not painted!) as I think that these may already be exactly what we need! :roll: :|
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yup.... 8) Although there's shielding along the whole length of the exhaust that can do exactly the same... :roll: :lol:
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Under 30 mins... 8) you'll need an 8mm socket, extension bar, ratchet and a philips screwdriver... 8)
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1990 / 1991 = H plate Average milage on an H plate is around 130K miles, but there are LOADS with MUCH more, and quite a few with a lot less... :roll:
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Without those awful window stickers I hope :shock: :lol: :lol: yeah, forgot to mention that! :lol: :lol: