Henny

Later bonnets have more re-enforcing strutts/braces on them as they have to have a weird pattern to clear the VR6 lump, where the early one just had 2 bars front to back... 8)

http://www.roadeye.co.uk/owners/index.htm Getting one for my 'rado once it's almost finished... 8)

Could still be the bulb... If the fillament in the bulb breaks it can sometimes re-make contact when bumped and if there's power there, it'll weld itself bask together again... Problem is that once it's hot again (ie lit) then if you knock it again it'll break at the weak spot... :? IMHO You're more likely to have a dead bulb than an intermittent wiring fault...

around $530 at todays exchange rate... :? + shipping and any american import taxes... :?

White smoke when you first start the car is just steam made from the condensation in the exhaust boiling off... Don't worry about that unless it doesn't clear once the car's warmed up a bit... Darker smoke on over-run tends to either be over-fueling, or burning oil... Neither of which are particularly great signs... :? Take your car to a garage and get the tuning/fueling checked thru the rev range. That'll show you if you're running rich, or if not that it's burning oil... :?

Dubster you don't have to move anything if you use the 1.1 gearbox with the 1.8 GTI engine... It's only 'cos of the G/box that it won't fit onto the original 1.1 mounts... Anyway, Sorry guys, we've moved well off topic here. :oops: The long and the short of it is that the 20V turbo will pretty much drop straight into the Corrado (any model!), but you may have to mess around with drive shafts depending on which G/box you decide to use, possibly with fuel systems (dunno about this one!), and definately with wiring! :lol: 8)

Erm, it will... I've done it.... :? You need to change where one of the engine mounts attaches to (think it's the front one, but may be the G/box one, can't remember) but it goes straight it... you need to arse around with fuel pumps and tanks and pipes and the like, but it'll basically just go straight in... Same as a 1.8 16V drops straight into a MKI 1600 GTI...

Different block, yup, but the 'rado shell is basically the same for all models year on year.... so same mount points... 8)

Why? The VR uses the same mounting points as all the other 1.8 and 2.0 'rados and the 20V is based around essentially the same block layout as those... :? Why shouldn't it fit straight in?

picture the scene... a motorway slip road, a small gap, and a 30 tonne truck coming along the motorway that has no inclination to let you into/through that small gap and into the middle / outer lane... With the standard box, from 20 to 50 I'd have to change gear loosing between half and one seconds worth of acceleration time... If second will hit 60 or higher, I won't have changed gear before I'm going faster than the truck and so am through the small gap and out into the less populated middle/outer lane... Miss the gap, hit the brakes, stuck until a nice trucker (they do exist, honestly! :wink: :lol: ) lets me in 'cos there's no way you can do 0-60 in what's left of the slip road after being cut up by a 30 tonne truck! :? I guess you have to do the sorta motorway milage that I do a year to realise just how much difference that extra half second or so can make lower down the speed range... 8)

Try it with a 30 tonne truck bearing down on you and you'll realise why you need the longer 2nd gear! :lol: :wink: :lol: As I said, I don't do the whole racing thing unless I'm either at a proper strip, or on a track, in which case I'm just interested as to what my car can do rather than trying to beat everything on the track... 8)

Yup I tend to agree, but the useful one on my journey into work is 30 - 80 on the slip road onto the M56... If I can knock even half a second off that in the morning, I may save 10 minutes on my journey! :shock: :lol:

Have a word with a dealer... Their version of the software may well have the part number on it... :oops: At least you know it's on Main group 9, subgroup 45, illustration 224-00 :lol: :wink:

Yup, I'd go for all black with a different stitching pattern... Makes the seats look completely different, yet not out of place... 8) We got it done to a Beetle (*yawn* yeah, a long time ago, but still relevent!) about 10 years ago and the difference it made was unreal. Standard seats with all black leather and a new stitching pattern made 'em look a million dollars! 8) They were done by Dave at DB Cartrim up in Blackpool... He's still going now and still has his good reputation which says something.... 8)

I never had a problem with the gearing of 3,4 or 5 (or reverse come to think of it! :lol: ) but 1st was just too short (although it's the same on the VR) and second was close to useless 'cos it was WAY too short... :? It's all to do with the kind of driving you do... I'm mainly using my car for getting to and from work: 28 miles into Manchester every day in rush hour (no idea why it's a rush, everybody's stationary! :roll: :wink: :lol: ) 2nd was too high revs, 3rd too low for most of the stuff I was stuck in, so my fuel consumption was nasty... With the VR 2nd ratio, I should be able to leave it in second that little bit longer and not have to change gear every 30 seconds causing wear to the clutch and my knee! :wink: :roll: :lol: I won't have the problems with the top end gears, I've got the engine upgrade to deal with that lot :wink: :-P It's the lower gears that have always been too short for my liking... this should get around that problem by shifting 2nd up that little bit further... And, as I say, it should knock at least half a second off my 0-60 'cos it'll be a gearchange less! 8)

OK, good news and bad news... :? Here's pictures of the parts you need... 8) However they're only listed as one part which is the WHOLE mounting and all (part 9 on the diagram, parts 7 and 8 say number unknown...) :? Part number is: 02A 945 413 C

yet again, here's Kev to the rescue with another of his photo "how to" guides.... 8) Nice Job as usual, Kev... 8) I think you may have just prompted me to do mine... 24weeks standing in my back garden and the strips on my 'rado are looking a bit sorry for themselves... :?

making 'em outta plastic/perspex is a really bad idea too... 60 seconds of main beam and all you're left with is a molten splat on the front of your car where your BLING covers used to be... :roll: :lol:

Nah, that's about par for the course... It's a bummer when it happens, but don't let it get you down... 8) I eventually bought the 8th 'rado I saw after travelling nearly 2000 miles in total! :shock: I did have some pretty specific ideas as to what it was I wanted though... :roll: :lol: Good luck in your search, and welcome to the forum... 8)

Could also be the wiring to/from the alternator and the main Earth strap... Check that the Earth from the battery to the chassis and then to the gearbox isn't green... If it is, change it... Also the lives to the starter and then the one from the starter to the alternator are known to do the same... :? Green copper = oxidised = high resistance = sod all charging occurs and you get a flat battery! :? The cables aren't expensive or difficult to fit, so it's worth having a good look at 'em... 8)

I paid just under £450 for mine from Badger5, I didn't want the hassle of having to go to Seat and VW garages to get the parts, and then having to get pipes made up and the like... It was sooo much easier just to pick up the phone, tell Bill what I wanted, hand over my credit card details and hang up the phone... 8) :wink: Also, it for any weird reason it doesn't fit properly, I've got some come-back to him as it's specced for my car from his company, rather than bits from other dealers who'll just look at you in a funny way... :roll: :lol:

Sorry mate! :oops:

Welcome to the forum... 8) Mods all depend on what you want to do to the car... Dropping it onto it's ar$e and making it do 160+mph with a 0-60 under 6 seconds probably isn't high on your priorities 'cos of the kids/wife, so I'd go along the lines of uprated brakes, slightly lower it with some GOOD quality matched springs and shocks (very little change in ride, much better handling) anti-roll bars and a nice miltek stainless exhaust system. Nothing "in your face", just subtle mods that'll make driving it nicer and even a little safer! 8) Good luck! Oh, and it' CORRADO!

I'd bet VW motorsport also used a different crank, con-rods, pistons, valves and had it running with a different capacity when they used that block! :wink: :roll: :lol:

Yup, usually you have to apply slightly unsubtle use of a large hammer and a screwdriver to get the old sensors out! :wink: :roll: If you didn't need a sensor before, you sure will after! :lol: