Henny

Loves Handling and sheer GO of them... (even the 1.8 16V I had wasn't exactly slow!) Seating position and cockpit layout LOOKS, both of the car, and of passers by/ people being passed by... :wink: 8) Ease of mechanical work... Anything is do-able by someone who knows how to use tools and RTFM/ RTF"C-F.net" ! :wink: :lol: Spoiler (it has to get a mention doesn't it! :lol: ) Hates The hassle trying to get some of the more obscure parts/trim Lack of a Haynes manual! :roll: Knowing more than some of the parts muppets who try and sell you the wrong parts while making out that it is the correct part that you ordered, even though it looks nothing like the old bit you have in your hand, and has a totally different part number on it... :evil: (Sorry, that turned into a bit of a rant there... I got messed about by S-K-F in stockport today about my oil pump, which is going to take ANOTHER week to arrive, and I am NOT happy about it 'cos I was going to finish my engine this weekend.... :roll: ) That's it for the hates... Even though I've just spent a horrendous amount of money, time and effort on my G60, I'd do it all again without hesitation (with the exception of snapping the bolt in the first place! :roll: :lol: ) I had planned to do something similar, rebuild wise, later in 2004, so all my sheared bolt did was to move the project forwards slightly... 8) Basically, I love my 'rado and wouldn't change her for the world (apart maybe, for a few more modifications! :roll: :lol: )

yes totally agree with you there some of these cars are far too low on here!! they are compremising handling just to scrape and rub... get a -50mm car corner weighted and it will out handle anything with standerd dampers 911's inc.. i know cos i have easilly out handles my bro's carrrea 4 on roundabouts.. :lol: Yup, Mine's -30mm (ish!), corner weighted and had a full suspension geometry set up by a pro racing team... By god, did she handle before the crank bolt snapped! 8) I think mine looks spot on too.... but obviously, I'm biased! :roll: :lol: AND I'm not running with drive shafts at silly angles multiplying torque steer and wear of CV joints! :roll: :lol:

Check your brake fluid level, as this can turn the warning light on... If that's OK then I'd say it's the wear indicator for your front pads that's causing this... 8) Some Corrados were specc'd with sensors built into the front brake pads that make the warning light come on when they wear to a certain level. Someone has probably replaced the pads at some point with cheaper pads that don't have the sensors in them, so your brake warning lamp is warning you that your pads are low... I'd guess that if you take off a front wheel, you'll find a cable either hanging around not connected to anything, or tied to something like the suspension strut. My bet is that this cable is either shorting on something (could be full of road muck) or has been damaged and is shorting onto whatever it is it's tied to... When this shorts out it turns the light on... :? Have a look behind the front wheels and see if you can see the wire I mean... If you have ABS, there'll be 2 sets of wires, one going to the ABS sensor on the bearing carrier, and the other will be the wear indicator connector... 8)

Yup, that and the fact that they are exposed to some pretty hostile environments with lots of heat from the brakes, dust, road crud, snow, water etc etc etc, it's pretty amazing they work as long as they do! :lol: 8)

Yeah, my dad described it as "evil" and "threatening" the way that it just appeared in his rear view mirror on my way home one day... :twisted: ...and then said it was "awesome" the way it just pulled out and dissapeared off into the distance staying flat around the corners... :wink: 8) He wasn't a happy bunny about that 'cos he was under the mis-conception that his Hyundi Coupe was faster than my G60 'cos it was "a newer 2 litre" than my 1.8.... He forgot about the effect that the blower has though! :roll: :lol:

:lol: :lol: Look for the rib down it's length (oo-err!) Compare it with a normal key and you'll see why it doesn't work in the glovebox and boot locks... 8)

There were 3 keys supplied with each Corrado IIRC, 2 were A keys, one was a B key. The A key will fit ALL of the locks on the car, Glovebox, boot, doors, ignition and filler cap (if fitted with a locking one, it's been a while since I've looked at mine! :roll: ) These were nice VW badged black rubber topped keys. The B key has an extra ridge along it's length and so will only fit into the doors, ignition and petrol cap. The B key was a metal key which only had the VW emblem engraved into it... The idea was that you can lock your stuff in the boot and glove box when you take your car to a garage and hand over the B key safe in the knowledge that they can't root through your stuff while they're supposed to be working! :lol:

I like the idea of having keeping the steering lock though... :?

Dunno about lowest, but I'm pretty sure mine's got the highest here... 225000+ Miles... :? (can't remember exact figure 'cos the dash is sat on my kitchen table at the moment!) When she's running :roll: I do about 350 miles a week mon-fri commuting, and then another 100 or so during the summer weekends having fun! :wink: 8)

I reckon that the design team behind the Corrado got it spot on... 8) The looks, proportions and general asthetics of the car are brilliant... There isn't an angle these cars look bad from (apart from underneath, a view I've had of mine far too often recently! :roll: ) Yes, they're somewhat angular and muscular looking, but that's not a bad thing in my opinion, but I think it's part of what has kept it looking as fresh and distinctive as it is today without becoming dated and naff looking (take the Ford Probe for example!) As for the affordable part, I don't know of any other 8+ year old performance car in the Corrado's league that would cost much less to keep running... It's all relative... My first Corrado cost me hardly anything to keep on the road, my current G60 has cost me a small fortune, but I'm doing this one properly, rather than scrimping on bits and bobs, so I can excuse it... 8)

...or the new alarm fob, or my own immobilizer details, or.... :wink: 8) I thought about that when I got the car, I'm seriously thinking about changing ALL of the locks so that they work on a key of my choosing, but I'm not happy about doing the ignition lock 'cos of having to drill out that pin... Doesn't appeal to me much... :? Of course, the de-locked option is looking more appealing by the day, so I'd just need to modify the boot lock to work off a different key and then I'd be laughing... 8)

at a guess I'd say it was Russian (.ru web address gives that away!) I doubt there's an english version on the web 'cos VW would probably try and shut it down... :?

I wish I knew too! :roll: :lol: I haven't got a key to my boot either, (I've only got the 'B' key that'll open doors and start the car....) and I could do with modding the boot lock to work with the new key I've had cut from the very worn B key... :? Anyone know?!?

Reg K plate 'rado in Chorlton town center tonight (Thursday 11th) at about 8:10pm... Nice 17" shiney wheels and a LOVELY engine roar as you sped off towards Trafford! :wink: 8)

Yes, Gavin does make and sell uprated lighting looms.... Yes, they are very good... Yes, I have one too! :wink: 8) PM him and he'll reply pretty quickly and get one to you ASAP... 8)

I may have come up with a cunning plan... :wink: I think I know a guy who can make us up some needles the same as a MK4 that would be illuminated by a small ring around the center of the dial. This ring would be covered by a black disk on the needle's hub so wouldn't be as IN YOUR FACE as the HUGE ring in the photos before, but would allow the needles to glow at the same brightness as the dials... 8) It means that we'd have to buy new needles to go with the kits, but that each kit was a complete solution and was pretty much a plug and play style modification... 8) What do people think to this idea? Oh, and does anyone know if VR and G60 needles have the same design mounts? :roll:

Nope, I'm saying that if it STAYS on after the igintion is turned on, it's DEFINATELY an electrical fault, probably a broken sensor or pump :shock: fault... If it comes on after 6 -> 10 MPH (either direction!) then it's probably a mechanical fault with one of the rotors... It could be a sensor with a wire that's broken within the coil that's making contact while stationary, but loosing it's contact once vibrated (same as a lightbulb that will work when you hit the light, but wasn't working before hand...) but it's most likely to be the rotor though! I have experienced BOTH on my C though, so don't rule either out... :? The only way to tell for sure (without stripping things apart!) if it's front or back is to plug it into a VAG machine when the light is on, and it should say front or rear... :? 8)

They can always pull the fuse out that controls the always on sidelights... 8) The extra wiring looms make so much difference to the lights on most VWs you wouldn't believe it from people telling you.... :roll: I first made one for my first MKI golf and was gob-smacked by the difference it made! I've just bought one of Gavin's looms for my C as I can't be bothered to make my own any more, and after seeing how well/nicely his are made, I probably wouldn't have done half as nice a job making my own anyway! :lol: 8)

If you remove the drivers side handle, it's not too dificult to dismantle the lock mechanism and change the tumblers around inside it so that it'll work with your existing key.... I've done it on several VWs in my time... 8) Basically, when you've got the lock barrel out of the handle, take out the pins (DON'T LOOSE THE SPRINGS!) and put them back in an order so that when you've got the key in fully, they're all flush with the barrel... You can buy extra pins (they're numbered 1-5 IIRC) from VAG for a few pence each, so make a note of which ones work in which slots, and then you'll have BOTH front doors working from the same key as the ignition... :D 8)

Have a word with John (16VG60)... He's sorted me out with more bits than I care to remember, is highly recommended by people here, is a full time mechanic (VAG,or at least Ex-VAG, IIRC) and generally a top bloke... 8)

VAG has a habit of using bits from the parts bin on run-out models, they've done it since the 60's with the Beetle... If you have a late (J plate, or VERY late H) 1.8 16V (KR engine) then it wouldn't suprise me if they fitted a different rack 'cos they'd run out of the 'official' 16V ones... :? :roll:

Just so you know, Porsche stopped using, and pulled it's recommendation of, Magnatec oils after finding out that it has a nasty habit of causing low oil pressure... :shock: I don't know why, but it does according to Porsche... :? If Porsche won't touch it, it ain't going ANYWHERE near my G60! :? :roll: :lol:

Hi guys... Think I may be able to help here after spending AGES getting my ABS to work... :roll: 8) The mechanical bit on the front Sensors is a metal ring that sits on the hub behind the disk. This ring has a series of holes in it which pass by the electric sensor giving the pulses that the ABS brain counts. If this ring is damaged, missing, not spinning properly, buckled or full of road gunk, then it won't cause the electrial sensor to pulse causing the brain to log a fault (it thinks the wheel is locked!) The way this will show up on the light is this: 1) Turn on ignition, light comes on for a few seconds then goes out (initial self test) 2) Start engine - Light stays off 3) Start to drive the car -Light stays off 4) Go above 5 or 6 MPH and the light comes on straight away... This is because ABS is not active below about 10mph and so doesn't register that the sensor isn't sensing until you're over that speed... If the light NEVER goes out, even with the car stationary having just started the car, then you've got an electrical fault somewhere, and they've probably told you the wrong error message as the system cannot diagnose a mechanical fault unless the car has been moving... HOWEVER, the mechanical front sensor fault you have fec, could mean that there's a physical break in the coil on one of the front sensors... It depends how badly the German has been translated :roll: :? :lol: It's worth checking the resistance of each sensor by disconnecting the wiring on the strut top and sticking a multimeter across the sensor side of it... If one has a much higher resistance than the other, then it's dead - new sensor time... :? The rear sensors are more likely to be a proper mechanical fault than an electrical one as there is less heat here which is what tends to break the front sensors. The fault on the rears tends to be the rotor on the back of the rear disks which is cup shaped and just friction fitted onto the back of the disk. If you've had new rear disks at any stage, and have now got a fault which only shows when you go over 10mph, then the odds are that the sensor ring hasn't been replaced and so has stretched slightly when taken off, causing it not to spin with the disk causing the ABS brain to log a fault... :? 8) Hope this helps some people... If there's any more questions, or you need that little lot (sorry, it went on a bit didn't it? :roll: ) explaining any more, just post up here and I'll see what I can do.... 8)

The problem with the needles is that you won't see them at night.... See how you can't see the fuel or temp needles on the photo above? the speed and revs would be the same, no matter what colour you painted 'em... I've got some glow-in-the-dark paint (don't laugh!) on order from the states that lasts for over 10 hours, is clear in normal light, and red in the dark. It re-charges in an hour of normal daylight, but I'm not sure if it will recharge through glass as it's UV absorbing and glass acts as a UV filter... I've got a spare set of clocks coming from Darren (G-Man) this week and I'll have a major play over Xmas to see what I can come up with to cure this little problem, then there's no issues to getting these dials other than people stumping up cash and deciding on the style they want! :lol:

My pleasure... 8) The hosting you had was fine, it just didn't like remote picture hosting that much... As soon as I put the URL into the address bar the pics came up first time with no problems, it was just links from here it wasn't too happy with... :? Car looks good, I saw it at Inters and wondered what the hell was going on with it... It only had slightly more panels than my MKI and that's stripped waiting for a respray and rebuild! :wink: :lol: