Henny

:lol: :lol: I did exactly the same when I did my MKI 16V! I also completely destroyed at least 5 inner CV joints in under 3 years and completely destroyed the standard clutch so badly that I had to put a new flywheel on as well! :shock: :lol: I never did change any of the bolts though... :? I'll add that to the list for my MKIs rebuild too :roll: :lol: I may put a different gearbox in this time that's a little less silly in it's ratios... :wink: :lol:

:shock: Live and learn... I didn't know that... :shock: 8) /runs off to buy yet more new bits....

I hope you don't think I'm dissing fibreglass bumpers cheesy, It's just that I've had problems with fibreglass panels in the past and didn't want to risk it on my C... 8) You car looks great and it's obvious that you've spent time, effort and money on it to get the result you want. It's a personal thing that I know a few other people here were feeling the same about with the plastic and fibreglass thing... 8) 'nana man, Don't worry, I'll keep updating here (and my gallery!) when I get the bumper... 8)

Yup, I've heard (and had to do) this before... Dunno why it works, but it does... :? 8)

Hi All! Well, in my relentless search for a plastic (not fibreglass!) front RS2 style bumper I've searched high and low all over the internet... and I've just found out that Venom (only 20 miles from where I work! :roll: ) can now get hold of complete ones from Reiger rather than the older style ones that had to be bonded onto the original bumper... :D I've just ordered mine (£275 8) ) and it should be here in a couple of weeks... I'll let you know what the quality of it is like as this is the first one that Venom's supplied, and I'll document anything interesting in this thread... 8) Keep watching! 8)

ALL VWs from the era of the 'rado left the factory with white letters on a black background for the speedo. jedi-knight83 Someone's stuck new aftermarket faces on badly... :? Get 'em off, and your speedo's probably reading correctly again... 8)

dubbprince, Have you got the center arm rest, or the flat back seat? I've never had a flat one, so I don't know how it comes out... :? The rear seats with a center arm rest come out like so: 1) lift the arm rest up: You'll see 4 screws by the hinge, undo these and your arm rest is out. 2) put your hand in between the seat base and the seat back and lift the back of the base up, it'll hinge forwards a bit and probably then stick, now pull the seat base back and up and it'll come out. do the same on the other side. 3) The backs of the seats can now be unscrewed from their mounts and removed. Easy when you know how... :lol: 8)

The garage I used to work for used DB cartrim for all of their interiors and we had several show winners... Dave's a sound bloke who knows his stuff and has been going for AGES... I stopped working at the garage 8 years ago, so they've been in business for at least one decade, which says a lot... 8) Heartily recommended... 8) I know that he was always happy to do cars he'd never done before and did a lovely job on a couple of Porsche 356s that we were restoring which aren't exactly a common interior to do... :lol: 8)

An oil cooler on the G60 bottom end is ALWAYS a good idea... I'd have thought with a turbo it's probably essential! 8) I'd hazard a guess that 200BHP shouldn't be too hard to get to with the standard PG block/internals and a reasonable turbo. Good luck!

Yeah, I think you may well be right about that... I know that the Beetle specialists I used to work for sprayed a few in Mars red, but what colour they were before is a different question.... If you want a REALLY rich, dark red, try VW's 1960's RUBY red... MMMMmmmmmmmmm...... 8)

There's a couple of different Mars reds too... VW's nice like that... :?

Hi Eliot I, I was jammy and got a job as a broadcast engineer for Galaxy102 in Manchester just before I graduated, so I left Uni and walked straight into a job... It had pretty much nothing to do with my degree, I got the job 'cos I'd been doing the Engineering at the Uni Radio station for a hobby and had worked hard at that... :? I know that some of the people on my course went into all sorts of odd things, sales being a pretty common one... :? I know what you mean about employers not knowing what Mechatronics is... I applied to US Robotics for a job and got a nice email back asking what my degree was in as they'd never heard of it... They're only one of the biggest Mechatronics companies in the world! :shock: :roll: :lol:

Be aware that the front carpet is one piece, so to remove it you're gonna have to remove BOTH front seats! To take it out you need to take out the lower shelves on the dashboard. Some of the fixings for this hold part of the carpet in. You'll then be able to see some large plastic fixings that have a small slot in the top of them which hold the carpet in. These unscrew to release the carpet. You may find that it's easier not to try and undo these with a screwdriver as the plastic slot just rounds out... You can normally undo these by hand with a bit of effort... The center console (under the handbreak) then needs to come out and the whole carpet should then be able to be pulled back into the car. I think that's all of it... It's a while since I did this (about 4 years!) so I may have missed something, but I don't think I have... 8) Hope this helps... dazzyvr6 , The reason I locked the other seat removal thread was 'cos the same questions were being asked in these 2 threads that were both active. I locked the smallest one which had no fresh info in it... 8) I, for one, had put some info into this thread that answered several of the questions and I wasn't about to waste time typing it out again...

I've got parts of one in mars red... Does that count?!? :roll: :lol:

There's a thread just below this one that's asking exactly the same question! :roll: I'll lock this one up... Goto This Thread to add more...

Woah, :shock: another Mechatronics engineering graduate?!? I thought I was the only one! :lol: B-Eng (Hons) Mechatronics - Class of '98 University of Hull... 8)

Sounds like it's OK... Find a nice, big, straight, flat, empty bit of carpark, get to about 30MPH and hit the brakes HARD, you should find the peddle pulses under your foot as you find out what seatbelts are for! :? :lol: Please remember to make sure that there's plenty of open space around you to stop in case the ABS doesn't work properly... we don't want any accidents now, do we?!? :roll: :lol:

dunno... never tried... :oops: :lol:

joebrent It sounds like your motor is straining and not raising automatically due to resistance in the mechanism. Take the inner panel off the tailgate and grease up the mechanism with bike chain grease spray, give it a few ups and downs manually and see if it's any faster/smoother... If not, then I'd check the voltage at the motor (could be a dodgy earth) and possibly try a spare motor to check that your's hasn't gone weak.... 8)

...then there were all of the dark reds and metallic reds that were used on MKI golfs and, going further back, beetles and the like... :? Golf MKIs were MARS red which was more orange than red... Tornado Red came in during the MKII golfs production run... 8)

YAY! 8) You've got it spot on... 8) A nice side effect of the spoiler on the 'rado is a clear rear screen... The spoilt air stops the crud flicking back up onto the rear screen keeping it clearer than it otherwise would be... Stevemac pointed that out to me the other day. 8)

dave0280 There's a rubber bung at the bottom of the runner that stops the rattle. This sometimes falls off and so the mechanism is free to wobble with the window down, hence the nasty rattle... :? The window coming down at an angle could be one of a couple of things. The glass is held onto the winder mechanism by a U shaped long bit of metal that just grips a bit of rubber onto the bottom of the glass. This bit of metal then has 2 bolts to hold it onto the actual bit of the winder mechanism which goes up and down. The things that often go wrong with this are: 1) the grip stops gripping so the glass can 'slide' out of the grip slightly causing the glass to skew while going down... (possibly due to a replacement window at some stage?) 2) one of the bolts falls out... :roll: 3) the bolt/rivet in the bottom of the door that holds the mechanism in place has come out or is loose and so has damaged the top rivets causing the whole mechanism to skew when opening the window... To cure the rattle, take the door card off, carefully peel the plastic membrane away from the door and have a look inside the door, shake the mechanism with your hand to find out where the rattle is from and carefully search around in the bottom of the door for the rubber bit. Refit this to the mechanism and you'll cure the rattle. You may also spot why the window is skewing while doing this... To cure the skewing glass, when you've got the door card off, lower the window (slowly!) You'll see some holes through the metal inner of the door that will line up with the bolts just below the bottom of the glass. Make sure that there are 2 of them, and that they're tight. Trace the mechanism down to the bottom of the door and see where it attaches to the bottom. If it's not attached, find out where it's supposed to be attached, and re-attach it! 8) If it's not either of these, then lower the window a bit more until you can get at the metal window holder, lift the bottom end of the glass that seems to stay up more and see if you can see where it's loose on the holder. With the glass lifted out of the holder, squeeze the metal holder closed and then gently persuade the glass back into the holder. Hopefully this should make it's grip on the glass better and stop the window skewing... 8) Hope this helps... Good luck! 8)

£500?!? :shock: Nice.... 8)

GAUGES! *EDIT* Nuts, beaten to it... :(

OK, assuming that the car ran perfectly before the 4 month sleep... Take all 4 plugs out, disconnect the coil -> distributor wire at the coil, put a rag over each of the plug holes and turn the engine over with the starter for 10 - 15 seconds.... Throw the rags away, put the plugs back in, re-connect the coil wire and try it again... Odds are that you've got stale fuel in the cylinders which just isn't getting cleared out properly. If that doesn't clear it, answer these questions: Does it even sound like it's trying to fire at all? Is there a spark at each plug? Is the fuel pump running while cranking the engine? If all of these are YES, then you may have to bump start it by towing it with another car... Could be that the starter can't quite spin the engine fast enough to get her started... :? Good luck anyway... 8)