Henny

OK, time for some facts on BHP... 'cos I'm sick of people talking utter rubbish about BHP... :twisted: (not aimed at anyone just for the sake of saying it! :roll: :lol: ) BHP = (Torque X @RPM) / 5252 This is a FACT, don't try and argue it, 'cos you'd be wrong! (look it up on Google or in any tuning bible if you wish!) BHP was originally developed for steam engines and was a comparative measurement of how far a steam engine or a horse could move a fully laden mine cart in a set amount of time (1min IIRC) - Hence "horse power" :roll: The "brake" part comes in because you are testing against a load, hence "braking" against the power output. As torque is the major factor in what everyone needs to get their car to accellerate, BHP is largely irrelevant these days. These Rice Boys whose engines rev to 10K rpm+ will get silly BHP figures even though they haven't got the torque to pull a rabbit out of a hat at lower RPM just 'cos they are tuned to get the max torque at high revs and thus a high BHP figure... :roll: Example: If my car produces 1000 Lb/Ft torque at 100 RPM, and yours produces 100 Lb/Ft torque at 10,000 RPM then on BHP stakes, you'll have the highest BHP figure by a long way (19.04 Vs 190.4BHP! :shock: ) However, if yours makes naff all torque figures upto that point (which most hi-revver's like that will!) and mine makes 1000LB/ft all the way up to 100Rpm, I'd rather drive the first than the latter with a properly chosen set of gears in the box! :roll: 8) ("Bye bye" high revving engine. "Hello!" silly acceleration! :lol: ) Oh, and just to clear something up that someone once tried on me... If you've got a BHP and Torque graph for your car off a rolling road, and the two lines DON'T cross at 5252rpm, you've been had and your BHP figures mean absolutely nothing... :roll: At 5252rpm Torque = BHP simply by the definition of BHP, if they don't cross at 5252rpm, someone's messed with the graphing program to give higher BHP readings! :lol: Oh, and just before anyone brings up F1 cars, they IDLE at around 7Krpm and rev upto around 20,000rpm with a pretty much flat torque curve throughout that rev range, they also weigh sod all... That's why they accellerate so fast, and get to such a high top speed! :roll: :lol:

I'll have an ask around with some of my contacts in the morning and see if any of them can shed any light on it... I have a feeling that CPC (part of Farnell) may well be able to get the amp chips for this kind of thing a shed load cheaper than anyone else. 8)

Yup, sorry, Jim, It's just you... :roll: :lol:

Sorry, I couldn't resist that earlier... :lol: You need to prise the cover off the plastic handle and there's 2 big screws behind that, then remove the door opening handle (it slides to one side to take it off) There's also a couple of screws along the edges of the panel. The panel is then clipped onto the door with hooks along the bottom, so lever from the top and see where else it's held on... I'll have a look at my Haynes manual tonight when I get home and add anything I've forgotten! 8)

:shock: :shock: :shock: Woah, 2 very lucky sets of people there... ...and one typing this now... I managed to spin my MKII Golf twice on the way to work this morning... :shock: Icy roads and no gritters last night meant great fun this morning... :shock: Forunately I've managed to not damage the car at all. :shock: :D The first time I saw some skid marks ahead so was only doing 20mph, but I still ended up in a field having gone through the open gate backwards and was then followed by the 2 cars behind me... :shock: The third car wasn't as lucky and hit the gatepost... :? 2 miles down the road, same again, skid marks on the road, 20mph, and I ended up doing a rather pretty pirouette of 180 degrees :roll: I ended up on the other side of the road facing where I just come from so I had to drive back home a bit to find somewhere safe to turn around and then go around the corner again... this time at 10mph! :roll: :lol: I'm fortunate that both of these were on back roads, so neither were busy and you don't get big lorries coming down there (they don't fit!), but they're normally gritted as the gritter depot is down these roads! :shock: The weird thing was that at no stage did I feel worried 'cos I knew I was in a pretty solid car and wasn't going fast enough to do much damage to anything... The poor sod who hit the gatepost wasn't so sensible this morning though and his escort is likely to be an ex-cort now.... :? I'm just glad that I've calmed down in my driving since I wrote my first Corrado off a few years ago... Crashing at 30mph and below makes you realise just how bad things could be if you'd have been going faster like the bloke in the escort this morning... :wink: Take it easy out there kids, there's some slippy roads and incompetent councils out there! :shock: :wink: :lol:

AFAIK Reiger's not released photos or a catalogue with details of this bumper yet so I can't point you in the direction of it... :? ']['H3R4POR, It's definately NOT that bumper... :? The closest one I can find is the GRP (fiberglass) one on the Venom site...

:lol: :lol: :lol: I'll keep y'all updated... 8)

If you have no record of it being done, get it done ASAP... Snapping the cam belt is not something you EVER want to do... :?

:shock: It's a 91 16v? it should have a turning knob for the fan speed and 2 levers, top one sets where the air is blown to, bottom one sets the temperature... The later dash had 3 large turning dials, fan speed, direction and temp. It's these later ones that tend to fail as the cogs get jammed up... The earlier (like the MKI and II Golf) ones hardly ever break... :?

From what Richard at Venom's said, it's a straight swap with the original plastic bumper, just take the plastic off the irons, and fit the new one... :D 8) That's why I wanted it... It should fit well too being a Reiger item... 8)

dr_mat it's an early one! Different broken bit... :roll: :lol: Longman, there's a couple of people breaking G60s in the for sale section, they should have the bits you need on theirs as yours will have the same earlier mechanism (2 slide controls rather than 3 turning dials) which don't tend to break as often... 8)

Happy Birthday to you both, Alex and Dan 8)

Well, it's arrived at Venom this morning... and I'll pick it up on Saturday... 8) Photos will be here afterwards :wink: :D

It's worse than that... When I'm sat at home on my PC I can see her in the back garden looking lovely 'cos I can only see the back of her! :roll: :lol: 8)

IIRC = If I Remember Correctly! :lol: If you are having problems with more than just the temp gauge warning light, then it's probably the voltage regulator on the back of the clocks that's gone... You can get 'em from places like Maplins for about a pound! Take the clocks out, and on the circuit on the back, you'll see a black plastic square with 3 pins coming out of it... Take that out (it's just push fitted into the circuit and I think it has a screw through the top of it too) and get a new one from Maplins (or RS or any electronics supplier!) put the new one back in, and see if that cures it... 8)

Removing rear door cards? I have no idea... I have no rear doors! :wink: :lol:

Snap, only mine's in the garden, garage, living room, dining room, and I think there's some bits in my bedroom too! :roll: :lol: The number of parts is slowly going down though as they all get bolted back together! :D

yeah, MKI water gauges are pants.... I've replace them on all of the MKIs I've had to cure exactly this problem... :roll: New gauge will sort it out... They're not too expensive either IIRC... 8)

yup, it also makes it easier if you take the front seats out and drop the rears down... Then it's a case of taking all the trim out around the roof lining, taking the lining out through the boot and then unbolting the mechanism... I did do a guide here somewhere.... I'll see if I can find it... 8)

When you tried to post the pictures, a box appeared at the top of the page after you clicked on the add attachment button... It said... The Attachment/Image must be less than 1280 pixels wide and 1024 pixels high :roll: I've resized 'em and added them to your first post... 8) Nice looking car by the way! 8) :lol:

30 mate... 8) (16x7.5J)

Just use the Halfords style crimp fit insulated female spades... You'll have done well if you can find an original plug... :?

:shock: Live and learn... 8) I wouldn't have guessed that VW would do something so sensible! :shock: 8)

...unless your idea of a properly set up suspension is like mine... Corner weighted coilovers set mildly lower with stiffer shocks and springs... A corner weighted, mildly lowered (30 to 40mm) Corrado will always out handle a MKIII Golf (even with the same good suspension upgrades) due to the lower center of gravity and better chassis characteristics that it was always praised for when it was released, and that make it still be considered to be one of the best handling front wheel drive cars of all time... 8) Once you put coilovers on, and set them up properly, then it all comes down to the actual chassis characteristics at which point weight distribution becomes irrelevant 'cos you can choose exactly where you want the weight to be on the footprint... 8) Ker-plunk... My 2p worth... 8)

I've no idea if it'd be the same, but I doubt it due to the engine management stuff being totally different... :? I know the box varied massively on Golfs between models, so it wouldn't suprise me if they did the same on the Corrados... I could be wrong on this though... :? I've just looked on Ebay, and that G60 fusebox went last night... Sorry... :?