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Update: Replaced voltage reg today aaaaaand.....it's still fubar. When plugged in the car, all the LCD segments light up, the temp and fuel gauges appear to work and the speedo and revs are still dead. Also, the set of clocks I've been using in the meantime (from ebay) flash the LCD's when the ignition is off, and the clock doesn't keep time. All other respects are fine though, from the knowledge base this would seem to indicate they've been clocked or something similar, so is there a way to fix this and also wind the milage up to match my car if I can't fix my original clocks? (they're on about 30k less than mine should show)

Yes, I got one this week, the build quality is great, haven't fitted it yet but shouldn't be any trouble.

Or even Public Enemy!

Is it just the speedo or are the other clocks playing up?

Cheers gents!

Fitted a replacement set of clocks to see if it's my clocks that are goosed, thankfully these work, so the looms ok. Also fitted the shift weight I've had knocking about for months but only just got the bolt for. Think I need new front topmounts though... :(

I want to put the LED from my TOAD in one of the blanks in my dash clocks, but I need to know if cutting the wires currently going to it will cause the alarm to go pear-shaped??

Reckon they could look great (lower the better) but will they fit over G60 brakes? Edited: Beaten to it!

Ok!

I'll have one, my clocks are in bits ATM cos they've gone t*ts-up so I might as well take the opportunity. I think next you need to come up with something clever to go in the space in the revcounter for the mystery 3rd LCD!

Think I've seen that mentioned elsewhere, possibly in relation fuel gauge probs? *goes to search for "voltage regulator"*

Since Friday my dash seems to have died! The LCD's are both blank, and the speedo and rev counter aren't working, though they do flicker a bit at times, and seem to do so together?! Took the clocks out, then put everything back together, reconnected the battery and all the segments in the LCDs lit up (so at least they work!) but went off after a bit. warning lights which flash before you start the engine aren't doing anything either. I've checked all the fuses and they're all fine. So far all I can think of is replacing the capacitors on the clocks PCB, going on other threads I've read.

Don't fit an oil catch tank then forget about it! mmm messy.

Re-fitted the oil catch tank, checked fluids, pootled down to hellfrauds for some shampoo then gave her a quick wash. Saw a nice mk1 Caddy on teledials outside Halfords in Chester.

I have the exact same problem on my C. Anyone know roughly how much it would cost for a bodyshop to weld in a replacement section?

Insurance sounds ok, I'm paying £599 with Brentacre though that's with all the mods covered - make sure any mods are covered, you don't want have them refuse to payout in the event of disaster! I think so long as you know what you're getting into you should be ok, C's are all quite old now, and many (including mine) are high milage, so a lot of parts are reaching the end of their life and need replacing (e.g. suspension bushes, brake pipes etc.) The expense comes mainly from the labour involved, so the more you can do yourself the better. Bear in mind as well that insurers will require a Cat 1 alarm/immobiliser, so that's another £200-300 to budget if it hasn't already got one, or has one that's so old they won't approve it anymore.

I used Central VW Audi in Ellesmere Port for my Service and MOT (and all the work needed to pass the mot) this feb. Good lads, asked the right questions about the car, didn't charge for the second MOT despite it being at least a fortnight before they had time to do the repairs.

I wouldn't worry about emissions unless you know of any engine problems. I'd worry about everything else though. My G60 failed in feb - needed all brake lines, most of the suspension bushes and a new exhaust. Emissions were fine though...

I've been stopped by the police twice, I was coming back from work one night (midnight to 1am ish) on the A-roads 'cos they're more interesting, going too fast, luckily they didn't clock me so I just got a ticking off (rightly so) and haven't been stupid enough to do it again since! I think it also helped that i had all my paperwork with me (License+card, MOT, Ins. cert, letter from DVLA saying it's my car and even my Passport!) The other time I was stopped I was in a company transit, and got ordered out at gunpoint, but that's another story...

The speakers in the OEM doorpods are 5.25". Mounting depth I don't know exactly but it's at least a 2 to 3 inches.

Great fun to drive, and so long as you expect stuff to break (daft stuff - door handles, switches etc.) and allow for it, you'll be fine. Plenty of scope for tinkering too.

What about the Duostyling guages that are built into a switch blank? I think Riley has one on his G60. http://www.duostyling.com/

There are 2 main options, either: 1)use a generic FMIC and pipework, which is probably cheaper to buy, but requires more fabrication and modifying the front of the car; or (and this is what I'm currently doing) 2)fit an OEM FMIC from a golf G60 or rallye, these are probably more expensive to buy but easier to fit so long as you have all the bits (the rallye IC is longer and requires modding/removing your front tow eye) since they were designed for the job - the front subframe has mounting holes for the IC. There are also kits available from G-werks, Jabbasport and others (?) which include the IC and all the pipework. For the Golf IC, try german ebay, as they seem to come up more often than in the UK. Either way, you need: The intercooler (obviously) A charger outlet, either a rallye u-bend, or a RS type outlet Boost hoses to go between the charger outlet and the IC, and from the IC to the throttle body A means of mounting the CO pot in the pipework between the IC and TB. All available reasonable easily (if not always cheaply!) Further reading: have a look at G-werks, Bahn Brenner and Bar-tek websites, ebay, and search on here, look for threads from flusted, he's got an aftermarket IC, and somewhere there's a good thread by Shilkadaddy who used to have a Golf G60 IC in his rado. There's also a german website with a how to of fitting a Rallye IC, good pics of what goes where etc. http://www.corrado-psychopath.de/index.htm

oops! A sight guage (clear pipe on the side of the tank) is handy as well, so you know when to empty it!

Yeah, you just need an inlet and an outlet, i'd put a filter on the outlet, otherwise you end up with a film of oil on the inside of the bonnet (like I have! :roll: ) There was a group buy a few months ago, where i got mine, but there's plenty of similar ones available.