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Yesterday, drove to Manchester and back without the ABS system throwing up a fault! This (hopefully) means the brake position sensor I bought off Leon has sorted the last of my ABS issues. :clap:

Colours are: Red - Permanent live Brown - Ground/negative Brown/Red - Switched live (ignition) Grey/Blue - Instrument panel lighting (that's the one you're after) Blue/White - Speed signal for automatic volume control Watch out for the speed signal wire, if it shorts to the metalwork of the car, it stops the spoiler working. Also IIRC the connections for live and switched live are the opposite way round in the VW loom to the ISO standard, so if you find the H/U doesn't keep it's memory, that's why... Perversely, the early owners manual gives the list of colours (p.107) but by 1995 when my VR6 was built, they'd removed it from the text!! :brickwall: The aerial may need a power lead, depends on the car I think, some of the aerial bases have a booster circuit in them, my old G60 has one and there's a black wire going from the car's iso connector to the aerial cable, presumably the oem headunits had a power output for this? I don't know if that's the same as the "power aerial" outputs found on some H/U's (like my nakamichi) as I was under the impression that those only give out a brief pulse when the tuner is switched to, in order to raise a retracted electric aerial. I spliced the aerial power lead into the switched live on my G60, but it never made much difference to the cr*p radio reception - the boosters in the aerial bases are notorious for corroding and ceasing to work, I think you can open them up and bypass the booster, but never got round to doing it myself. Curiously my VR6 doesn't appear to have a powered aerial, and the radio reception has been consistently great...

Granted, the glovebox on my VR came out reasonably straitforwardly, but the one on my G60 was obviously only intended to go into the dash once and stay there!! :lol:

Well I'm on my second Corrado now... Loves: Best driving position. Ever. Rear seats with the hump. Heated leathers Shape of the car Driving along in summer with all the windows down and sunroof wide open! Dash styling - matches Nakamichi headunits! 8) The spoiler - of course. Handling - never a dull drive. G60 "foot down and hang on" factor. VR6 smooth power Rarity Hates: Crap lights and wipers Scuttle cover (lack of) Rattly fragile plastic number plate panel on (really heavy) tailgate plus rust magnet number plate light. Badly fitted replacement windscreens that leak and cause rust. Wet carpets (see above!) The design "masterpiece" that is the headlamp switch. Dash clocks that go senile Late dash centre consoles that break as soon as you look at them. Rattles. If it can, it will. The glovebox. Try removing it. Just try. I dare ya. Plastic doorpods. Previous owners who will have butchered the wiring somewhere. :brickwall: Dodgy old alarms. Stuck thermostat. In the coldest weather for 30 years. The handbrake trim. What were you thinking VW?? Standard ride height on late cars Heater controls. Need I say more? Trim screws that you can only reach with a right angled ratchet driver! Thankfully the loves outweigh all the niggly hates - most will be, or have been fixed... :clap:

I can recommend machine mart for reasonably priced socket sets etc., even if you're not planning anything major! After all you need a 24mm (IIRC?) socket just for swapping the steering wheel! Other stuff I've found useful over the last few years: A small right angled ratchet screwdriver plus bits - VW have a nasty habit of hiding interior screws in vents and other places you can't even fit a stubby screwdriver! Decent set of metric allen keys - ball ended are handy. Soldering iron, heatshrink and a decent ratchet crimp tool (B&Q do a handy set with a good assortment of connectors) because unless your corrado is as it left the factory, some f*ckwit WILL have monkeyed about with the wiring, somewhere. :brickwall: Mini maglite, for when you're lying upside down in the footwell trying to trace a random wire in the dash. (see previous point!)

What's the connector you've used for the power cable?

Where have you got the tweeters at the moment? I'd place them in the dash locations, as the stock dash speakers are only tweeters anyway. Other than that I'd recommend the ignore the rears, pop a sub in the boot method. Are you going to amp the rainbows?

Sounds like a result then! :clap: I'll give it a try, it was cheap for a new, unused switch.

Snapped up an unused late headlight switch from ebay the other day, went to put it in the car (95 VR6) and found it doesn't fit! The little L-shaped plastic prong on the back amongst the contacts is the wrong way round to fit the socket in the car. Closer inspection reveals a missing contact as well (not broken, made like that.) Checking the part no.(535 941 531 D01C) on VAGCAT leads me to suspect that it's a LHD switch as 3 different types are listed, this one, the scandinavian spec one for daytime running lights and the GB dim-dip one. So, the (literally?) burning question is: Can I chop off the L-shaped prong and safely use it in a RHD car? Will it work properly? I'm not fussed about the dim-dip function, as I'll be putting the upgraded loom from my dead G60 into the VR shortly and will lose the dim-dip anyway. I just want to make sure that nothing disastrous will happen! :onfire:

Yes they do! My old G60 was broken into earlier this year, but because the alarm went off they didn't actually get inside the car or nick anything. Wrote off the drivers door in the process, the scumbags, but didn't get the car or any of my ICE.

Won't the new speakers fit on the plastic posts the stock ones are held by? That's what I did in my old C, before I got Audioscape pods...

JBL? I run a set of C608GTi's (I think!) in my C (well I will once I transfer them from my dead G60) but that's in audioscape pods, the standard door pockets are a limitation unfortunately (though I used to have the 5" version of the 608's in mine and they were very good). Both these models were top of the range a couple of years ago (JBL have a hyper expensive new range above them now though!) and sound great with all types of music (my listening tastes include a bit of almost everything!) They'd sound even better run off a separate amp, there are some bargain "old school" ICE amps around on ebay and places like Talk Audio forums, like the Denon DCA800 I use. Food for thought?

Or Brentacre, they've always been great to deal with for me. These specialists will sort you cover that includes modifications.

2 more things to check- Is the connector for the reverse light switch (on top of the gearbox) attached properly? The one on my old G60 had lost it's metal retaining clip and had to be cable tied on to stop it falling off! And with the fogs, check your relays (above the fuses) are all in the right sockets - the VR I just bought didn't have it's fogs working because the foglight relay was in the wrong socket!!

Cheers to raddo_tom for sorting me out with a replacement door (f*cking car thieves :bad-words: ), thanks!

Another vote for the CD400 here, although 99% of the time it just has my ipod running through the AUX input.

I'd recommend a set of JBL C508GTi 's, I ran these in standard pods before I got my Audioscape ones, and now have the C608's (same but with larger bass drivers). The mid-basses go straight in the stock pods, the tweeters go easily in the dash locations (take a hole saw to the original plastic tweeter mounts), they sound great, used to be top of JBL's range and are available for £150 from Car Audio Security's Ebay shop (which is where I originally got mine). My 2 cents anyway :lol:

Glad to hear this, enjoy your C! I sometimes worry I'm adding too much weight to the car in ICE... :scratch:

The stock doorpods take a 5.25" bass driver, they can sound ok but you'll get better sound (esp. bass) by buying or making better pods. Audioscape make doorpods for the corrado, they're pricey (£180ish) but very well made and look factory. Either way, you can't go wrong with a decent set of components in the front, pop the tweeters in the stock positions on top of the dash and enjoy! Also the stock rears are 6x4" but usually a bit of hacksaw work is required to fit aftermarket speakers. (not that I ever turn my rears on anyway)

They did do a 3-spoke version of the 1st wheel, I have one in my C, got it from ebay uk, don't come up very often though. They fit a MOMO boss.

I paid between 25-35 quid on ebay for clocks for my 91 g60, watch out for getting the right clocks for your car, or you'll have to start swapping bits round from your old clocks (not that tricky really, the clocks are modular and fairly easy to dismantle.)

Yes, I've had exactly the same thing recently, supposedly its a resistor on the PCB in the clocks, but no one on here seems to know which one, so your options are either find a professional to look at it or buy another set of clocks and resign yourself to only having a rough idea of your cars true milage.

Not sure about raising the minimum age to 18...if it had been 18 when I left school, I'd have only had a couple of months between my birthday and going to uni (after which I had neither time or money for driving lessons). 17 at least gives a bit more time. What about allowing a provisional licence from 16, but no test til 17, so you could have 12 months practice with a qualified driver before you are even eligable for the test? Not sure if the bhp idea would help either, the proposed changes look aimed to stop young (17-25) drivers killing themselves and/or their mates and I don't think powerful cars are that much of an issue here, more road sense/experience or drink&drugs, at least going by some recent nasty accidents in our area.

So anyone know which resistor it is then?? Want to fix my clocks so I can fit my shift light!

This is exactly the same problem I've had for about 2 weeks now! I can tell you what it isn't - It's not the voltage reg in the clocks! If anyone knows what causes this I too would llove to know!