smee
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Everything posted by smee
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Screwing or Bolting speakers to audioscape pods?
smee replied to bristolbaron's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Pilot holes definitely, bolts would be nice but you'd need really small T-nuts... -
Fitted my RH toplines, having got tyres on them yesterday...ET20/7J + VR6 plus axles = FAIL.
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Well like I say, JBL are hard to beat at the cheap end of the market, if you can stretch your budget further, I'd be looking at the likes of Rainbow, DLS, Focal or Genesis Profiles. Crossovers can be hidden in the dash or behind the kickpanels in the footwells (if you don't have ABS) and the stock dash tweeters can be used to make mounts for the comps tweeters, thus keeping them hidden under the grilles. Don't forget to budget for decent power cables for the power run to the boot, and some speaker cable for the comps.
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I think mariojoshi is trying to make the point here that you could easily fit a set of comps in the doors and dash locations, which will sound better than just having coaxials in the doors. As for speakers, I've always found JBL very hard to beat for sound v. cost, £100 will get you a good set of comps such as: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jbl-p560c.html The problem however is the stock doorpods aren't great and will only take a 5.25" speaker, but I see you're after audioscapes so that'll be remedied at some point! When I got my audioscapes, I bought another set of comps the same except with the 6.5" midbass, swapped them and sold the 5.25" versions on. If you're willing to buy second hand, there are definitely bargains to be had, have a look on Talk Audio Forums http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=59
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Terrible news, but glad you're ok - onwards and upwards!
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Ok...so you've replaced the stock tweeters in the top of the dash with the focal tweeters and the door speakers with the focal midbasses I presume? So the wiring should run: headunit to crossovers, crossover to tweeter and crossover to midbass.
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Disconnecting the battery will probably have reset the headunit, so it's worked again until it's decided there's a problem (again). The fact that it's doing this means that either there's a short somewhere in the speaker wiring, or you're running it into too low an impedance for it to handle. Have you run new speaker cables or are you using the car's own loom? What speakers are you running?
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vr6 plug lead removal tools for sale (metal type)
smee replied to zerocool's topic in Suppliers Forum
I'll take one too please. -
Well I've had a 91 and a 95 corrado, and the wiring colours were identical between them (though my VR doesn't have the black wire for the powered aerial) but I'm wondering is your corrado a really early one (90 or earlier?) Didn't mk2 golf wiring change in 1990, maybe it's the same deal... I'll have to have a look in the Bently bible. Edit: Just looked on the 12volt site again, in case the page for corrado 92-on corresponds to what I have. It doesn't. I'd take their list with a pinch of salt tbh.
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Right, from the owners manual: Red - Permanent live Brown - Ground/negative Brown/Red - Switched live (ignition) Grey/Blue - Instrument panel lighting Blue/White - Speed signal for automatic volume So the description you've got seems to be wrong - looks like you've only got the switched live connected. Also DON'T connect the blue/white wire to anything as it'll stop the spoiler working - same if it shorts to ground as well. The radio fuse is a 10A. The Corrado's own ISO plug doesn't correspond to ISO standard, either, the switched and permanent live are swapped round, and if yours has a powered antenna like my old G60 did, there'll be a black wire from the ISO to the aerial lead. Only VAG stereos have an output to power this, but tbh the amplifier in the aerial base has probably long since died so it'll make no difference anyway. There's a description somewhere on the forum of how to open the aerial up and bypass the amp. Later cars don't have it at all (presumably because VAG realised that they don't add much and just fill up with water and corrode!) The wiring colours remain the same for all rados, but the later the car, the less info the owners manual gives you... :brickwall: Edit: Just looked at that website you mentioned above - it's totally wrong.
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Mk2 Golf switch will fit as a stop gap - and there's millions of them about! Also, a LHD corrado headlight switch will work, you'll just have to break off the L-shaped tab on the back.
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There's nothing like a well shagged box :norty: Today I put my dash centre console back together, marvelling at the :censored: design that explains why all the late centre consoles are broken! Oh and received the logbook in the post, only 5 months since I bought the car :roll:
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You mean the wiper contact between the wheel and the steering column? I had the same problem when I got my VR, turned out just to be dirty contacts. The horns on a VR are buried somewhere behind the bumper, in front of the passenger wheel possibly?
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Refitted the drivers doorcard having fitted the other audioscape pod and cleaned the leather and all the door furniture. Tuned the radio, having swapped the battery the other day and remembered how bobbins it sounds at the mo. Must crack on with the rest of my install!
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It's not because it's valentines day is it? "Happy valentine darling!" "Thankyou darling - you'd do anything for me wouldn't you?" "Of course darling!" "How about getting rid of that old car then?" No?
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Mods - Is this worth a sticky? I've got 3 corrado manuals (don't ask) and the radio info gets less as time goes on - 1991 they tell you the code, by 1996 it says little more than "want a different radio? Go see your vw dealer" ! :roll:
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Yes, the blue/white wire is the speed signal for factory radios, the blue/grey one is the illumination wire for dimming the headunit's display at night (if the h/u allows). AFAIK, the radio power loom goes down, across behind the heater controls, across under or behind the dash clocks and thus ends up at the fusebox...So you might not strictly need to remove the glovebox, though it will give more light&access. I've nearly always pulled the glovebox when fitting or removing headunits because there's so little space behind the h/u in the corrado that the ISO's usually have to end up down the back somewhere! Have you checked the fuse? Not taking the p*ss, I'm sure I had the fuse go on me during a bout of stereo swapping a few weeks ago!
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According to my manual it's the fog lights & rear fog lights.
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Fitted a new radio aerial and base, changed the fuel/temp gauge for a LHD one (litres!) and fixed the rear windscreen washer.
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Hurrah! Managed to spot someone who's on the forum. I was the guy in the (filthy) Silver VR - on my way from Chester to Uxbridge to pick up some bits for the C.
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Dark blue K-plate VR6 on the M6 southbound near Keele services this morning?
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The vw supplied sony radio/cassette in my '95 polo has a switch on the top that has the same effect without having to faff about with the ISO.
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:lol: I'm not sure if that's what it's actually called, but it pokes into the brake servo and has a long plunger which presumably tells the ABS ecu how much braking force you're applying at the pedal?
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The motor-week thing is kinda cool, but I pmsl'd at the bit about "hitting your knees on the window switches" - seriously, who's ever managed to do that?
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Tempted to try fitting one of those vw mfd units, but wondering if they work ok with the corrado's speed signal?