Rams

It's worth hanging onto certain oem items just in case they need to be fitted for it to pass in the future, if you can afford to. Just a heads up.

I was speaking to a friend today whos working along side an MOT tester..... He said that the laws are going to get much tuffer on modified cars, or what basically sounded like any modifications not specific for the car may fail? I will try and find out more on the new legislation. But height, wheels, seats etc could all become a fail if not factory? So im told...... Has anyone heard about such changes? Might be worth keeping my bbs rims after all?

I believe that needs to be changed, I bought that on the assumption that it was the complete loom but only received the ancilary loom as per what you were describing. If the golf loom plugs into the c board then cant the c loom be used and adapted? Or is this too complicated as new wires may need adding or deleting? Someone mentions just buying new plugs, meaning part of the c loom can be used. (Unclear on that) I have asked a couple of guys on ebay to consider selling their golf bits separately.... I know there are some people after a 2.8 block so he may find interest here. Ive got till Wednesday to find one otherwise I'm going ahead with taking the engine out to get the chains and timing stuff replaced. Would have been easier to have changed the loom standing in the engine bay! Theres still a few days of hope!

I am struggling to get my hands on a wiring loom to convert my obd1 into 2. I have the engine loom with main round connector and fuel sensors etc, but can I just use my existing fuse board loom and buy the plugs and splice into my loom? Is it a case of shortening and lengthening areas? I am now working to a tight schedue and have the car booked in for paint at the beginning of November and want to do the obd2 and chains etc early next week. I was at the point where I was just going to do the chains and leave the obd2 conversion but if I can keep what I have and make that good, then I kind of have what I need to goahead. I also have people wanting some of the redundant obd1 stuff and I havent been able to give them a date yet. I read that the only plugs that are needed for the conversion are ones that fit into the c fuse board, so im assuming I can just splice into my loom? Cheers peops!

good news then, cheers for that.... Its just that horrible waiting game now :lol:

I have ordered H and R adaptors, 40 mm and order 1 set so I can trial them out on one side of the car and worse case senior they can go on the rear and if they are too wide for the front I can order 35mm or something, or indeed, if they fit the front and have some more clearance then I could order 45mm for the back. Hopefully It will work and looks good, they are special order so they cant be returned.They should arrive at the same time as the coilovers so my car will look totally different and will tie in all the mods. Looking forward to them ariving! Would still be interesting to know if anyone is running 40mm on the rear with an 8 j wheel / tyre with flared/rolled arches without any rubbing?

The arches have the lip rolled and the crease flared so there is just a rounded arch. Its flared inline with the existing arch to form a nice curve. I dont want my but cheecks to kiss the ground, but lower than what you would class as sensible with slight gap between tyre and arch.

Hi folkes I have rolled and pulled arches and recently purchased a set of 195 45 16 D90's 7 jay front and 8 j rear, car will soon be on coilovers but I need to order adaptor and decide what thickness they need to be as someone is interested in buying my Storm wheels..... I ve had a good read through and 35mm on the rears and 30mm on the fronts seems popular but these were on standard arches just with the lip rolled. Mine are flared and want to get a nice wide stance and gain the benefit of flaring the arches. Could I get away with 46 on the rear and 40 on the front? Or 40 mm all round? I need to order the adaptor spacers first thing and my storms wheels might be going on Wednesday?? Cheers in advance

Strip weldeing and grinding back welds before bond seal.... When you run your hand up underneath the arch it feels nice and smooth

I did get the D90'S and ordered the GAZ coilover kit.... fully adjustable with height and dampner adjustment, just not the rebound dampners as they are nearly a grand. Need adaptors now when I know how much I can get away with now that the arches are rolled and pulled..... I wasn't sure about them at first but once I offered one of them upto the car, I could tell it was going to look good value for money if that makes sense. The gun metal colour makes me like them even more than a standard finish. The tyre size of 195 45 16 also seems to work well with the online calculators.

Finally ordered some coilovers from Corby Motor Sport... A few guys said they were the cheapest but stated the ebay price of £510 delivered as when I called them direct they said £540. They take a few weeks to arrive but feel £510 for these quality kits are a fair price. By by 4 x 4!! Ive asked them to ship as soon as possible and when they arrive they will be fitted staright away. It should be the last thing I do before the body shop take it over for prepping. I have 3 weeks to get the timing chains etc complete but im holding back as we are taking the engine out to do the chains etc and it will be easier to do the obd2 conversion. Just need the main loom!! If anyone has one, please contact me, im likely to bite your arm off :lol:

Looking at buying some door thrusters.... To give a little extra push when activating the door solinoid as mine just dont open far enough and sometimes I have to push the button and pull the door at the same time. Depends on the level of the ground sometimes. Also the internal door rubbers have lost they're bounce. If they were new I think the door would open enough but they are expensive! Ive seen this website and note they do 2 different types, which do you thinks best? Drill a hold in the door frame area and mount the stainless thruster popper or go with the metal v shape style with stricker plate which can be stuck on a flat surface with double sided tape? Another company offer a system where they mount in the door jam near the hinges.... http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/mer ... de=99500-2 Has anyone got experience with them? Wayne.... What have you used if your looking? Cheers peops

I hope you dont need new roof rubber strips! :)

I just dropped the headliner down at the rear, just removed the plasic part along the top, the clips that hold it in are quite cool as they just slide in and out incase you break them. When I removed mine, I heard a snap and though I had broken the clips, but they just slot back in. I used some wood sheets and made a slope / ramp so any welds just rolled down the wood and out the back of the car. It took my welder all of about 45 mins to remove the aerial, cut a small piece of metal that slotted into the square hole, then welded a screw to that to get purchase on it and welded it up. Then nibbed it all flat with a slight recess for the filler, but only very slight. I wouldnt tape it though bud, you don't want moisture getting in.... I know you can use a sealant but I would leave it on or come over to my place and I will get my welder to do it for you! The shaved aerial was one of those things that made me instantly prefer the look, bit like when I removed the side bump strips. An instant lift imo. I am taking the headliner out so it can be re trimmed in black something.... especially as it has more sag than Pat Butcher :lol:

Here you go mate part no 321877209A £45.66 LESS DISCOUNT £42.01 PLUS VAT £49.36

Thankyou...... So, I can keep my pipe from maf onwards by blanking it? Is that what you mean? I am just printing the wiring diagrams out and going to spend tonight reading it all... Much appreciated..... I recently changed my ignition barrel switch so its already has a bolt rather than the snap bolts securing it. Plus I dont have door handles so I can just use the new key thats being sent with the pick up and transponder..... So in theory, I shouldn't have any immobiliser issues? Is that correct?

got mine from TPS, they supply VW with parts direct. I get a discount as theres another vw group im a member off has agreed a deal. I can fish out the receipt if you like? Theres a picture on my gallery thread along with some other new bits.... Looks so much nicer, completely black and unperrished!

I have the inlet, throttlebody, wiring loom that connects into the side of the engine, but do I need the complete loom from the fuse board to run across the bulk head to the ecu? Im getting confused with what exactly I need. The ECU and transponder and keys are on there way, still trying to source a MAF. Do I need the plastic pipe that comes off the maf to the throttle body? Mine has annother pipe that comes off that pipe which I believe is for the ISV and know the obd2 isv is built into the throttlebody so assuming I need a different pipe? Do I need anything else for the conversion??? Different sensors / relays etc? My plan is to get everything ready to hand to my mechanic and we can do the conversion together. Whats the best way forward for doing the change? Remove tmy complete wiring loom, lay it side by side the obd2 loom? Someone mentioned buying new plugs from VW ?? Mine is a late vr6 if that makes any difference. For anyone thats carried out the conversion, do you have any pics or advise and step by step instructions? A list of all the parts used etc? Be great for any help here.

Will keep an eye on this as my new seal will be going on once the car is painted.

Eibach anti roll bars are fitted.... Only drove back from his workshop in traffic but the car handles differently. More solid and a sharper turn it. I really need to get he suspension done to feel the full benefits.

Wheel bearings are normally a drowning kind of noise I though.... Check clearance with the brake shields, sometime if this catches the disc or if a heat shield is becoming loose. Check the suspension fully for the Arb bushes, drop links etc. I would jack the front up and spin the wheels by hand and at the same time you can check for play in the wheel to determine wheel bearings.....

You deserve a title for your efforts.... Lord is a start ! Its people like you that inspire me to make my C the best it can be, awesome information and devotion. Long live your C

I have given them a clean already and they have been undersealed. My concern was the rubbing when the car gets lowered, no doubt of that happening as im running 4 x 4 suspension currently but the arches will be ready to accept the new stance. I will put the inners on and see how I go and if it rubs then they can come out. Cheers chaps

Drivers side front and rear arch pulled, rolled and welded.... Looks great, really happy with them. Just the passenger side to do but the front is already rolled. Bee sting aerial is now shaved.... and etch primed.... Car looks uch better without the aerial. Lots of new screws and bolts today, all new speed clips, headlight and mirror screws etc etc, spent about £50 just on screws!!! I think im going mad.... Picked up the new window rubbers, 40 odd pounds each side. The car is going in tomorrow for the new Eibach front and rear arb's, around mid day, so looking forward to that. It was just great to drive the car today, lovely sunny day, sunroof open and its less blowy with the deflector ive since fitted. My dog is protecting the new parts that I collected today, see pics More updates tomorrow on the ARB'S. Im also having the new vw front engine mount fitted tomorrow, might do th egearbox one whilst im there as I get a bit of vibration through the gear stick.

I will put it back on then... cheers. I didnt think of trying that... nice one. Are you sure you dont need to seal the gap? with mastic / sealant?