Rams

indicators in, going to colour code the black trim around the lense to blend it in...

Hi all I have a small dilema...... A friend of mine is breaking an R32, 2003. The car is at present complete. The engine sucked in water and is hydrolic locked. He thinks it may have bent a con rod or similar damage??? It also has climate control..... I recently purchased all new timing parts for my vr6, they are new is sealed bags from VW.... So worse case I can sell them if I dont keep he vr6 engine? I got carried away with the turbo chat on here and I convinced myself to junck the supercharged option and go turbo. But I would like to achieve around 350 ish bhp with some nice torque and fit an LSD. Do I buy my friends r32 and transplant the engine and loom etc and what am I faced with to achieve 4 Wheel drive or indeed rear wheel drive? Or do I just reinforce my vr6 engine, sp 263 cam, chip / remap and exhaust and filter and supercharge it? Could I comfortably see power gains of 350 bhp? Can I just use the gearbox and drive train from the r32 and use in conjunction with my vr6? I do like the noise the supercharger makes Easier to install Like the vr6 sound a lot Like the turbo sound Like the r32 sound Or do I buy an Audi TT crash damaged and use the dash, engine and gearbox etc? Can I put the running gear from the TT on the rado? Im confused, any advise appreciated..... What are your thoughts, I know it depends on power wanted, but a general guide broken down with all the options would be excellent and im sure would help others that are confused about what to do with theirs? You read people loving the turbo, you hear the r32 is also excellent and so on. I can then price the different packages and make my choice. I have read the entire forced induction turbo thread and most of the r32 thread. Once ive decided, I can go about collecting everything, the paint work will be done soon so its my next step and a very important one. Be great to hear opinions..................

Oh oo, my Face book friend just posted, he's breaking a Golf R32!! That could be dangerous. I've asked to meet with him, the engine and loom etc are there. Anyone else want to help me rape the car? Bournemouth based

My new number plate, well a clue..... Dont like the font so getting some other ones made up.

The front slc bumpers indicators are in, tried getting the bulb holders but they are not available. Well since 2007! So, need to find a way to hold the bulb in the socket, might try different car makes and see if there a suitable holder. The next thing I need are LED orange indicators so the bulb head is shorter. The windscreen rubbers have been removed and looking inside there is only 1 bit of surface rust, so happy days. Need to get the old glue off the gutter rails with some thinners or something, so that they can be painted. Then the new strips can go on. Ive decided not color code the headlamp surrounds, just paint them black and the same with the mirrors surrounds, just keep them black. I now need to take the old aerial out and re fit a new one when its painted and get the headlining re trimmed in black whilst im there along with the sun visors. I might put the moon roof in, havent decided but as the interior will be all back, the moon roof might balance things out during the day, but I tend to have the sunroof open. I put the sunroof wind diflector on today aswell and thats all working as it should and installed my new Alpine headunit that arrived. Looks nice and no more CD'S. Will take the old disc changer cable out and install all the wiring for an amp to power all new speakers and components. That should be spot on for me. The wing mirror arrived today so I can take the surround off for the one I broke. Car will be drivable tomorrow once the bumper goes on, new bolts too which will be copper grease. Going to get a wire brush on a wheel tomorrow and take off the surface rust on the rear bumper iron and rust treet and spray, the front bumper iron is in good condition. She does sound different since the de cat pipe has been fitted. So, the plan is for me to take the car down to the guy thats going to be painting it, get a date booked in and ask him a few questions and to see some of his work. Then myself and a few mates will start rubbing the whole car down ready. I know its going to take some work, but we are all determined to get it done, including the girlfriend. My small bungalow is a corrado parts specialist at present. Every cupboard you open is something for the rado.

Well, im distantly related to Mohamed Al Fayed Beat the England No3 in a Badminton tournament I saved someones life that tried to take their own, its a stamped image on my brain

Picked up new timing parts and repair kit for main seal PN 068198171 been told its worth replacing... More parts ordered, new window rubbers for driver side and passenger side, need to find the part number for the small rubber that wraps around the miror / window as its mouldy. Will clean it and see what it looks like first. But might replace the rear window rubbers, does anyone have a part number for the outer rear window rubbers?

Super clear pictures, spot on. Will have it removed tomorrow. Will probably give the metal a rust treatment whilst im there and flick some black paint over the areas. :salute:

My spare wing has come in handy as the vent I have had put in, will allow air to flow in nicely, the inner wing will have holes drilled and a plate has been made between the 2 so none of the air is lost and has to be forced in. Also the vent has been mounted the other way to most but I think this way is will force the air in due to the front of the vent having loovered ends. Well thats my theory and it just makes it look that little bit different. Im looking forward to seeing what the vent looks like with the bumper on. When the wing comes off again I will take a picture, it also has a small gap to release any moisture and it all under sealed. Since its been welded up, its been etch primered and sealed. It will also be sprayed black and tidyed up for those who will be inspecting what Ive done. I will also put a rubber seal or sealant to make it nice and air tight. Now, need to work out what Im doing with the carbon cnister as I want to use that as an additional air feed.

Managed to win the ebay bids for an Alpine IDA X305S Ipod headunit, mine has the sony cassett deck and alpine mp3 cd changer, so they will be for sale cheap and work perfectly. Need some new components and an amp and that will do. Too old for sub woofers but always have a laugh when I see a young lad with base booming out of their car, we've all been there! lol £238 delivered which wasnt bad, the next cheapest ive seen is 260 and some advertised at 295 saying reduced from 350.

Well, the passenger side wasnt screwed in, I dont think but has a screw head with a few threads showing at the end, the driver side one looks likes its a flat piece of rusty metal! Thanks guys, I will drill it out and replace. Thankfully all the plastics came off so I could give them a good clean. Pics of passenger with correct screw but rusty and the second is the one that wont come out, it looks like a nut but its completely round and very rusty.

Am I missing a trick? I removed the passenger side headlamp with no problems, apart from drilling the old rusty screws out.... But the driver side will not come out and dont want to force it. The lugs come away but there seems to be something holiding it towards the centre of the unit. I can see a screw in a plastic clamp on the passenger side, but this side seems different with no head or screw ? Cheers

Stainless door solenoid switch, all mounted and working, had to trim part of the backing support but kept all mounting screw holes.

A supercharged VR Turbo would sound amazing through wouldnt it?! and instant power

I forgot actually, thanks for reminding me. Had previously read that too! I just called TPS on the off chance someone was there and got through the chap and he said just to call back first thing and change the order as it doesnt get submitted till then anyway, plus the parts were scheduled to arrive Friday as some bits were on back order. Cheers again

Some new goodies and more on order and some update pics of work so farstromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfMore Corrado Work 001.jpg[/attachment:lh771slv] Went into TPS today and asked for a quote for the timing chains and everything else and decided I may aswell buy it now whilst I have the money. So ordered all of that, tensioner, main seal, chains, sliders etc arrive Friday. ALso ordered new driver and passenger plastic triangular mould - exterior part and new door rubbers so when its painted it all looks sweet. Mine are mouldy and the colour has faded. Having blue LED door lights, bidding on ebay for a new Alpine head unit and then the decision of what dash? Want to be different here if I can but love a certain German style dash but am going to try and get it photo chopped to see what it would look like. I also have spoken to my German contact about getting me some Schimmel 263 cams... Awaiting his reply. Then collate the rest of the stuff ready to reinforce the engine for more power. I am now deciding on what ingrediants I need....... Fordge pistons, ARP bolts, possibly new stronger con rods, water pump, oil catch tank / mocal oil cooler, injectors, tappets, lsd, clutch, turbo, exhaust, suspension and so on. Will see what the head looks like and replace the head gasket but I want to be somehwere around 380 BHP by the time its all done. What would a supercharged VR6 Turbo be like? Anyone tried this? Just every month, try and buy a bit more and happy to wait a while to get everything and look forward to that day when it can all finally go in.passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfMore Corrado Work 006.jpg[/attachment:lh771slv]climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfCorrado all red rears.jpg[/attachment:lh771slv]

Bit of an update.... I have now managed to get the passenger side door shaved, both doors linked up to solenoids and working perfectly, picked up some new roof strips, will paint the tail gate plastic hinge to colour code, new number plate light surround, linking boot solenoid up tomorrow and putting switches inside the car to open the door internally, so for picking up people that cant work out how to get in, then its easy and saves leaning over to pull the handle. Ive been waiting ages for the slc bumper lights / indicators, should be here Monday, once they are cut in, few little bits of slopping and rubbing down and then the final prep work before its fully re sprayed. All rusty spots have been rust treated, and etch primed. Need a special drill attachment to drill the hole for the door popper into the mirror, its cone shaped and make the hole larger progressively. Ive got some new mirror gaskets coming, taking the rear bumper iron off to be coated as its quite rusty. Might do the tank straps whilst im there? Purchased some all red rears, smoothed the rear wiper and put my new number plate on to see what it looks like and im really happy. You will see the plate on when the car is finished and painted but im chuffed I own it. Its been a couple of months so far with not driving the car, got quite ratty with these door solenoids but can now move forward.... I kind of forgot I had this car..... But today I looked at her and thought, soon, you are going to be looking awesome, a storm with my own touch, a true labour of love. I can already taste the engine mods, but first, it needs lowering. My mechanic is primed for engine work which I will be helping with, I really enjoy seeing how everything works. Had mechanics been a subject at school, I might have paid attention. So theres still a few more bits to do till I can put it all back together, but typing this email feeling a lot more motivated and looking forward to enjoy the drive and my 288 brakes which I have only done about 20 miles on. Will get some pics up by early next, but the arch has come out really well, you would never know it was changed, well happy with my welders work. He knows how fussy I am but has carried out all the work patiently as he knows it means so much to me. Also, got to say thanks to Waynos, hes been a solid help with advise and have been able to assist eachother. This forum is a wonderful piece of work and the people make it the way it is. Dont mean to sound all heavy on you, just want to voice my appreciaton. :salute:

Hi there The doors just need to open for the MOT, it doesnt state that it needs to be a handle so ok on that side of things... I will have a system where I can operate the bonnet release if the battery dies, either by electric or manual release. Or have a way I can attach jump leads or battery pack to get power. Some actually rig up a wire / fishing line to the inner handle for emergency use but the solenoids use such a small amount of power, one would hope its enough to operate the door, if not, there are my alternative routes. I am using water proof solenoids mounted into the bottom of the wing mirror and the doors open really nicely, a good force is acting on the door popper and it sounds reliable. The only problem Ive got at the moment is the door opens well but the door doesnt lock or the door doesnt open but locks when adjusting the cable on the solenoid. Waynos is doing his wiring / soelnoid on Saturday and together we are going to find a way to get it to work. Hes had his handles shaved already where as mine are not untill Im happy with the opening / locking. He has more confidence than me and seems to be very talented in what he does. Think the best route is the internal release arm rather than the central locking pump / arm and finding a suitable place to mount the solenoid side ways inline with the release arm and it uses less force / movement. The rain has delayed things so far. Ive come close to sticking my original handles back in but hopefully its not going to be too difficult. Thats why I asked if anyone on here has done the mod for advise but it seems like its just Waynos and I.?? Its all to do with the pin slider on the mech, it needs to be fully back its its original position for the door to lock otherwise it won't and if you adjust it where the door pops, the release pin doesnt fully retract as it has more pressure pulling the latch down. So either something that works together, like joining the moving parts so it has to returned back fully, would work? If I can find a suitable place to mount the solenoid to work with the inner release arm, then happy days. Theres not much room around the window and the solenoids are sizeable to make them operate loads upto 14lbs.

Hi there I have started the process of shaving my doors so they have no handles and operate by solenoid. I am having difficulty and speaking to Waynos we are in the same boat. Has anyone doen this mod? I would love some advise on this topic about the locking part of the latch etc. Cheers Rams

I have removed the handles all together so it will be a flush door. The holes aren't welded up yet as I want to get everything working first. Im just come back in to see if there were any updates, tried lengthing the latch and the same thing is happening. The latch operates the slide pin on the side, if the cable thats pulling the latch down gives a good clunk and pulls down as it should, the slide pin doesnt return fully and then stops the door from locking, or we can get the door to lock and the slider sits back in the correct position but then doesnt have enough pull force to unflick the door mech to open. So far, spend 3 days in total in wiring it up and trying lots of different ways and tensions but cant get the balance right. I wondered if maybe my latch was weak but everything worked fine before when the handle was there. I know it would operate slightly differently but never the less the mech worked.climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfCorrado latch 002.jpg[/attachment:peco18vf]2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfCorrado latch 003.jpg[/attachment:peco18vf] I will change the cable thats fraid when its all working, if it ever works lol

Yes, solenoids fitted but the part the cable loops through which pulls down on the latch is quite small, Ive drilled a small hole in mine towards the left hand side to gain max pressure as the latch goes that way / down to open. I think I need the latch to be pulled by a longer style latch and wondered if the passat or other Audi / WV's were a bit longer? My theroy is using a spanner for a tight bolt is harder, using a ratchet with extension bar, it easier. Hopefully this will eith give me the adjustment I need. So far, I can get the door to open by the popper but not lock, or get the door to lock and not pop open. :cuckoo:

That could just be the ticket! All I need is extra length, theres a cable thats pulling the lever down by the solenoid. The rado one is quite small and curved and getting the right pull on the lever is paramount to the lever returning to its original position otherwise it makes the door lock pin not do its job, i.e not locking the door. I recon an extra 10 mm is required otherwise will need to somehow extend the latch, but it probably wont weld if its ally..... There is a small gap between the mech so might be able to extend it with a thin pice of metal. This bit is important as it needs to be strong and reliable. Thanks for the reply, a problem shared is a problem halfed

Hi there I am still having fun with the these solenoids! I have figured its the length of the striker pin that levers against the latch or in my case the solenoid. Do Audi's or Passat's have a longer striker pin? I need the extra length to gain cantillever as the adjustment seems so acute when setting up the solenoid as if the latch doesnt return fully, it affects the locking part of the latch and vise versa. If anyone understands my rubbish, im sure they can help me as im slowly going insane and almost wishing I hadnt bothered with shaved handles.... But I know it will look nice if I can get them working and keeping my door locked. If you have any ideas at all, please jump in, regardless of how relevant you might think it is.... Tomorrow is another day but somehow need to extend the latch and it might work, unless my door mechs are worn or something?

Reading your replies...... again, I might have just been a complete tit! I think what I have learned is that the button will always try and pop but its not actually unlocking the door as that must be controlled with the alarm fob!!!! I was thinking by seeing the lever latch being pulled down was actually unlocking the car..... I'm sitting here thinking im a plonker after spending quite a while figuring it out when I had done it all along. :clap:

Doors are opening fine at present.... The problem with the wiring is that we need a switchable live, as when the alarm is on or off, theres still a permant live.... Tried alarming the car, car locks but switch solinoid switch still poping the door open. Can you suggest another idea? Maybe the vacum pump - relay? Unless we can do it via a relay or earth somehow?? I might need an auto electrician?