slats

I used green stuff with them and the braking is so much better than the standard VAG setup. Well worth the spend :)

are you putting the resistors in line?? If you look it required a 1K 1/4W Resistor. Buy the ones that are specifically for 12V like these : http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Tab ... &doy=12m10 have a feeling if you use the ones you have you will need these in line with them: http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Tab ... &doy=12m10 or these: http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/product_info ... 2e3efac9b6

Saw the mats last night. I am tempted for a set once mine fall apart (which should not be long!!)

put a sub in, much better IMO

Sub is a 13". Focal used to make odd size subs and it does kick a bit :) I had the inside re-connoised at Surrey Car Audio in Camberly. Not cheap but worth it. Needs a clean and a feed now though!!

Thought I should put this up in here :) Pic one and two - The outside of my VR (sexy) Pic three, four and five show the inside and my lovely Audioscape pods (tweets in the standard dash mounts) Pic six, seven, and eight are the boot install And last pic nine is of the rear of the amp rack which has the sub amp and all the wires!! It took 3 weekends to finish the sub box and in making it I managed to cut my thumb and get 5 stitches in it as fiberglass is not easy to cut with a stanley blade!!!!!!!!! :roll:

I will have one, pm sent

I was playing around with my lights a few months back trying to get the illumination on my heater controls brighter. I had little success but have a new plan for that (to be done next summer)!! When fitting the dials back on I then tried the fan controls and it only worked on setting 4 :( To say I was miffed was an understatement!! To my surprise I found that the dials, though looking similar, were in face different. there is an extra notch cut out of the one you need for the speed dial See pic: The standard dial looks like this: So after putting the one with the extra notch on the speed dial it worked. If your fan is not working its worth a try. Someone years back may have done it and not realised. Oh and if this does work you may buy me a pint!!!!!!! :)

If it is hogh end then have you set up the EQ and time allignment? Made loads of differance on mine though I have an active setup. Are you using crossovers on the speakers? any amps?

what head unit you got?

door pods and a subwoofer, group buy scuttle cover.

It will be fine, just a bit of setting up needed. As I said b4, I am a snob when it comes to sound so ignore me!!

p.s. I am a sound snob!! I like the install though. Neat is how is should be!

I personally have Comps up front and a sub in boot. I am setting up time alignment at the moment and so far have got the music about a foot in front of me! Its a nice frature on my Alpine HU but I may crash one day while setting it up when driving!!!!!

Taken from this thread on TalkAudio forum: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=17902 ------------------------------------------------ Let's start with the contenious issue of 6x9's mounted in the parcel shelf. If a system has good front speakers, normally 5 inch or greater, and a sub woofer then the whole range of music can be played effectivly. If 6x9's are then added in the parcel shelf, and are playing full range the following issues occur.. Bass cancellation, due to the subs and 6x9's playing the same frequencies. It also muddles the sound quite badly. Due to the subs and 6x9's effectively sharing the same enclosure. In some severe cases they can even get destroyed due to the subs pushing too much air around them. Also in this type of setup the sound is dragged backwards, this is down to personal preference. If the 6x9's are setup not to play full range they can be useful. If they are set up in a bandpass configuration so they only play midbass. Roughly 300Hz-80Hz then they can add the extra kick which smaller components can't. This is useful for car where getting big speakers up front is a problem. However the sound is still dragged backwards quite badly. In many situations where midbass can be played from the front it is better in terms of SQ to remove the rear speakers. This way the sub bass cannot be pinpointed so all the sound appears to be coming from the front. ---------------------------------------------- If rear speakers are added for the rear fill affect then things are very different. The high end manufacturers often supply crossovers which provide an output specifically for this purpose. Normally then frequencies put out are in the local/low vocal range. These are also normally around 6-10db quieter than the front comps. This gives the rear passengers the illusion of having a full rang setup in the rear without muddling the front centre image for the driver. Having these again is down to personal preference, however in my experience I've noticed it being more use in large cars. ------------------------------------------

cool, in the picture it looks like you can see the carpet behind the hole. There is thought that a sub and 6*9 speakers in that config has problems as when the sub kicks it will push and pull the 6*9's so they will not work very well. It may be worth switching them off as the sub should compensate for the bass.

Is it a sealed box?

Will take some pics tonight and post them on here of where mine went through. Its not that bad but you need to get most of the plastic trim out of the passenger footwell and then it is behind the carpet. I recommend that you run at least 4 guage cable through as then you can have about 120 amps of power through and I know my alternator pushes 90 amps so that gives a bit of spare!!

Make the sub box out of fiberglass!! Snug as a bug in a rug :) http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43778

That was Tescos finest 99 octane super!! Yummy said the car but now its all gone :-(

I was made redundant in march, thats how bored I am !!!

Took me a bit of faffing to get it spot on but it was worth it!! next is 123456 78.9!!

Have been away so long time no reply!! Pods. These were done and trimmed by audioscape. The colour match is good but in real life just a little darker then the rest of the door card but when it is in its not noticeable really. Front panel for sub box. I think I did about 5/6 layers of F/G in the end (more on the corners) and about 10 litres of resin!! For the front of the box I cut a shape of ply to fit inside the box with no gaps (use card to make the template) and make it about 2 inches wide all round. Fibreglass the ply from the inside of the box with a few layers so that you now have a box with a lip on the front. Now trim any part of the FG that sticks out proud of your lip as you now need to cut some MDF to cover the whole front. To attach the MDF I used a glue and silicone seal in which you do a bead of sealant then a bead of glue and then a bead of sealant around the ply. I then also screwed the MDF on to make a tighter seal (as you screw it on the glue and silicone spreads to make a really good seal, oh and make sure you cut the speaker and terminal hole before gluing!! Hope that makes sense!! My Amp. Mine is a BBG Ryval and it is a Pheonix Gold design which BBG use. It is the same unit I think but it has a bigger power block in it (oh and it was cheaper!!)

It is!! I was going to turn the cover over but I just havent had time :(

MDF and fiberglass!! Was a lot of work on the box and next time I may just buy one but it was fun building it. I got help on the box from a friend who does it a lot. As for the shapes of the front and the amp rack I have lots of bits of MDF now that nearly fit!!