nocrap

Cool, worth the £30 then?

Cool, nice one Stu! I take it the switch is under the cap on the fluid tank?

Yah, cheers VR6...i wasn't moaning

Indeed, but i would have thought that would an on/off affair, rather than slowly getting brighter...

Right! Bear with me, its been a cold day. With the handbrake off the light on my dash is illuminated but only very very dimly, but as i drive along it get brighter until after about 1 hour its half the brightness of what it is when i have my handbrake on! Now, looking in the 'instruction manual' it says a few things; 1. The handbrake is on......but it isn't and the LED is only just visable 2. The brake fluid level is too low. Immediately contact a VW dealer and have the brake system examined! :lol: 3. Pressure in ABS accumilator is too low. But if it was 2 or 3 surely such a serious fault would be indicated by a full brightness light?....and maybe some sort of air horn...instead of an brightness that can hardly be seen when you start your journey and very very very slowly gets a bit brighter. Checking my brake fluid will be the 1st thing i do tomorrow.....but this does seem a little odd. Any thoughts?

Sounds promising, what was the performance difference then? i.e power develops from n revs...... Did you do this at the same time as fitting your cam?

Interesting.....tell us more? There was a thread about those on here last year but we had no definative answer.... Performance increase (rolling road chart?) MPG change?

Hoo-bloody-raa! I didn't mind it on ITV a couple of seasons back where the had semi-frequent 1 ad breaks, but they way they do it now is just annoying!

Yep, second that.....looks fine too me

Supercharedless - Sounds good! although being crimped or not shouldn't be an issue as it's the nut on top of the tube that needs to come undone......

Cool, i reckon i've got a good understanding on how to do this now! Many thanks

I thought the 2 17mm bolts on either side just bolted into the metal bits on the back of the bumper, no captive nuts........could be wrong

Cheers matey!

Right! i've been reading this after doing a google search - http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/46622 By the looks of it you have to unscrew the bit just above the lower spring plate, you can then withdraw the old shock inner....clean it out then replace with new insert. what do you lot think? or perhaps Mr boost monkey could have a try? cheers

Nah you're wrong, the answer's "A moonwalking hamster wearing supermans underpants".

Just for the hell of it I've joined too!

Fairly conclusive answer there then :lol:

:lol: i certainly was, all corrados were built by the fair hands of Karmann....

Indeed...these are the suspicions that I'm trying to confirm

I have access to oxy-acetylene, what heat were you using?

Could someone with a pair of old standard front shocks that are currently off the car please do me a favour and see how easy it is to remove the bit at the bottom of the shock

In every gear or just 1st?

I think you've got a golf one there Have a look at this thread http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65982&p=767085&hilit=vr6+and+oil+and+filter#p767085

I think its set by the float that sits on the pump thats in the tank, may need de-gunking or whole assembly replacing

good spot, looks easy enough to make one as well.