nocrap
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Everything posted by nocrap
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Aren't claybars supposed to be good on removing overspray? or did i just make that up?
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Replacement foot pedals wanted. Early Corrado?
nocrap replied to joedakio's topic in Suppliers Forum
:lol: yeah, what he said -
Replacement foot pedals wanted. Early Corrado?
nocrap replied to joedakio's topic in Suppliers Forum
Why not just replace them with OEM ones? -
Yah thats the one, mine's the lock type rather than the threaded ones i've seen on other wheels. Cheers Jim
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Cheers Toad, thats what i meant....had the word disks in my head it just didn't make it onto the keyboard!
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Need to also work out a way of replacing or fixing the plastic screw in bits too as they don't lock onto the wheel very well....there's no worries about them dropping off but they do have an annoying rattle! I did see the FKs but think the Beigemeister has dibs on them
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G60s are what you need not VRs.....VRs are 5 stud and you'll need 4, unless you're changing hubs as well?
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:wink: Cheers Stu.
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Must be water there still somewhere, distributor?.......what car?
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Because MrBeige moaned that i hadn't updated this in a while i thought i'd put up my new(ish) wheels......BMW BBS's
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There's a post about this a few down from yours
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A common problem that is usually overcome at garages by using oxy-acetylene (sp?) to heat up the union nut. I had to do this with mine and it worked very well....well apart from one of the lines blowing up while my head was in the wheel arch! That made me feel ill for a couple of hours, atomized brake fluid is not good!! It blew due to the pressure build up and came apart at the crimp. This is fairly safe to do but be warned that brake fluid is highly flammable, more so than petrol but it burns like diesel and doesn't combust like petrol does.
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Simple enough, but you may need to dremmel out some of the underside plastic to accommodates larger magnets.
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Isn't that a surround sound system? :wink:
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Yeah, like when i need to wash car parts in the dishwasher! :lol:
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Valvers use a coil and distributor for the spark (the bit where all the leads plug in). To test for spark remove the lead from the spark plug, remove the spark plug, plug it onto the lead again and hold it close to inlet manifold (depending on how much you trust you leads you may wish to wear insulated gloves) and get someone to crank the ignition.....You should get an arc of electricity onto the mani. If you do this means you have a spark! obviously. When you remove the plugs are they wet with fuel? if so this means that fuels going in, just not being ignited...... Give it a bash and report your findings.
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Always try the cheap things 1st, change the sensor in the side of the head. you used to be able to get them cheap from http://www.vwspares.co.uk, but i haven't been able to find them...
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I was very concerned about that one at work Dinkle, but was pleasantly surprised!
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Yeah but those blades don't have much force pushing them up into the curve again, those pics just prove how crap the standard arms can be.
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I tried one of these a while back, it was worse than the original on the front but does the back quite nicely!
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Yeah actually, i would have expected water temps to be a lot higher than the norm with oil temps like that.
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1 of 2 things....... either its the ISV on the right front side of the head, this can be disconnected and cleaned with carb cleaner. or its one of the 3 switches in the intake system which is stuck, 2 are on the throttle and are quite obvious the other is under the paddle on the air box. This can be accessed by removing the 1st pipe from the top of the air box.. good luck.
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Check for firmness of pipes when warm, could be that the pumps not going but you would still have flow if it wasn't...the other thing is the thermostat, if this doesn't open you wont have flow and will have a firm pipe. The other thing is air lock, take the header cap off and give your pipes a squeeze with the engine running from cold and check for bubbling... and lastly don't let you engine get that hot again as you might find it'll cost you a few more quid to sort......150*! shaking2:
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:lol: OK cheers. I was thinking that that might be the only way, i'm just trying to avoid having 2 broken foglights....
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Used search but cant find the answer. How the heck do you remove the lense from a late foglight?? I've used a hairdryer, scalpel, screwdrive, basically anything i could think of..........