exturbo2003

pump is the same as the passet one pull the pipe off the pump and suck or blow hard and see if all the motors move and lock the doors

okay the plug letter is M anything on that one please mate

wheres the clip please mate

no i couldnt see the plug number. its not the fuel pump as it would not run if it had no power and it needs 12v to kill the engine

okay has anyone got a wiring diagram for the G60 if so can you help identify a wire for me if you were to turn the fuse box round and look at the back of it there is a series of multi-plugs top right hand corner third plug in it has 5 wires in it black with a blue trace brown with a blue trace brown purple with a blue trace red with a yellow trace i need to know what the red with a yellow trace does as with out a live supply up it you cannot turn off the engine. there is a spur wire tapped into it and pushed into a relay slot on the front of the fuse box. i tried to remove the multi-plug but is stuck tight so can anyone help please

check your strut to hub bolts as these can come loose and do what your saying and no you cant pack a front with grease to make it appear fixed also most bearings come with a 12000 mile 12 month warrenty could be a worn stub axle tho had 3 bearings go on my sisters rear of her nova , on the trot so changed the stub axle and all was fine for the next 4 years till she sold it

think you will find that g68 is the camshaft sensor maybe kev can check on his by disconnecting the lead when its running to see which code comes up think crankshaft is g28

yep best after a down hill run when its worse

to check dizzy and coil remove king lead ( ht lead from coil to dizzy cap ) from dizzy cap and hold near to a earth point. switch ign on. now remove the multi plug from the side of the dizzy and get a small piece of wire to push into the middle contact. now brush this against a good earth point and you should get a spark from the coil, if you do then no siganal from the dizzy. next check with a test lamp or multi meter that you have 12v supply on the + terminal of the dizzy whilst cranking the engine, if you do then its new dizzy time, if not then check the ign switch

go with it henny i am gonna fit a second probe, already have a nut wielded in the down pipe, never thought of that hole, and will be getting a wideband too let me know how you get on

Boost figures do not come into the equation, they area rough indication, flow however does. A car registering below 15psi manifold pressure but with a wild cam, flowed head and exhaust etc may require higher flowing injectors even though the manifold pressure seems low, hence more air is in the cylinders not the manifold. Air fuel ratio is the true indicator. Adjustable FPR's are a accident waiting to happen on a forced induction motor. They do not work on vacume and their rising rate is competly different to that of what barry bosch took all his time and maths in creating. Fine tuning mixture is a little more complex on fuel injected cars to that of old skool carbs where you could twiddle a screw adjust your mixture. As stated many times in the past, ISV's do not leak, they bleed, they bleed because they are told to bleed by the ECU, it is not a fault, just a inherent part of the digifant system. Stopping them bleeding is a process we are overcoming from a electronics point of view and not mearly a check valve. A check valve physically stops boost bleeding, but starts a domino effect where the ECU interprits no loss of boost as a problem and retards ignition timing, status quo, loss of power. Do ya home work. ok you guys have made ur points which are valid to a degree but if you had taken a minute and read the first post by munkay you would see he doesnt mention any cams or porting to the head. By this I have made my conclusion that it is standard items he is running so i made my reply around that. Yes we can go into depth about how cams and porting and even to how long/big are you boost pipes can affect ur boost levels but thats not what is disscused here. For that you can open another thread instead of hijack this one. Sorry for being unclear about the isv issue, when i said leaks i didnt mean leaking as a malfunction, i meant to say that the boost its bleed off by the ecu nas we all know this. As for the FPR im running a webber vacum control fpr which works in the same principles as a normal FPR, the only thing is that you can control the level of the diaphram in the fpr giving you the low to high fuel pressure regulator. You cannot simply guess that by adding a 65mm pulley you will need uprated fuel system. In most cases a healthy charger can produce around 14-17 psi on 65mm pulley depending on its spec on a stock unported, uncamed head ........... Im not trying to missinform anyone, im simply giving free unbiased advice. many thanks okay lads this is how i see it lowG advice is always welcome and so is a differant view on things, but, when you give out the advice dont assume that you have worked it out that he had no head work or cams, and that is why you gave out the advice you did, because someone else might not have picked up on that and taken your word as is written. please try and be more accurate then these kind of discussions wont happen. I have too agree with beavis on the amount of air in the cylinders not the amount of boost is the most critical factor on the amount of fuel needed for a good afr. not sure on the adjustable FPR as have run them on cossies which are vacuum controlled on a forced induction system, and work well,BUT the big prob is people fitting them thenselves and not having the ability or the equipment to set them up properly and killing there motor in the process. as you have addressed ISV's dont leak they bleed boost so please dont use the word LEAK again, tho they might leak a bit when they are old and worn, but thats a differant subject.

take your car to a mot test centre and ask them to check them on the rolling brake tester :)

yeah were out here prob plugs or leads or coil pack going down use the search button at the top and look at these subjects as lots has been written on them

helpfull :? thanks :lol:

cheers mate

has anyone got the FK catalogue with the part numbers of the shocks and springs for the vr6 and g60 as i think mine are wrong hopefully some one can help

well flat out mine reads 125mph which is 119 on my gps....... and that is flat out :mad:

well done guy's :-P sorted

rally design sell them http://www.raldes.co.uk had them on my rs turbo and didnt like them, found they flexed try hi-spec there own are ment to be good will find the address later if you want

opps :oops: just got in from the pub and was a bit drunk :oops:

sorry if this has been answered before at tickover the idle valve should suck to stabalize idle speed when the throttle is opened to say 2000 rpm should it stop sucking :?

can you tell me the part num,ber on your front springs,and is it a vr6 or g60 :roll:

well my baby is finally back on the road again tonight :D :D :D :D :D all ineed now is to get down to darrens and get the wideband up it and get the chip checked out wehay

what about the cam chain timing between the two cams where are you joe

daft suggestion but have you had the co mixture checked :roll: could be that uts running very rich or lean and thats what the problem is. did a rebuild on a 16v golf before that was set at 1.5% and after the rebuild it was 11%, ie no more slight air leaks as the gaskets and injector seals were good. if you dont have access to one go to your local mot station ang give the guy a drink to check it tho he will probably do it for free, or will adjust it for a few beers. good luck and let us know how you get on