exturbo2003

yeah welcome veedubbed :-P

no offence taken just sticking up for those of us that arnt that bad, tho to be honest there are some. :lol:

where are you mate as always willing to help

there is not a inertia switch on your car pins 2,3,4,24,25,26 are the switcing wires from the ecu for the injectors (12v at rest ign on switching earth under cranking .3-1.5v ac, if you got a good meter if not get a noid light tester from lucas or draper, or a led to plug into the injecter plug, and when cranking the led will flash if its switching) pin 23 is the 12vfor the injectors main relay supplies the voltage pin 28,54,38 = 12v pins 1,7,55,56 = earth 12v= battery voltage with a tolerence of .5v drop hope this helps

on a standard engine:- knock sensor= back up protection lambda sensor=reads oxygen in the exhaust now on a modded chip you can program the ecu to use the knock sensor all the time rather then having limits of which the knock sensor will back up. as for oxygen readings these wont change but how the map in the ecu responds can. they are mathamatical equations so all you have to do is chang the equation slightly. you can still get good fuel econemy if its mapped well. some engines are better then others for this a s they have more sensors and you havent stated a particular engine. manufacturers have to have econamy and emissions to deal with as wella as a broad range of fuels and a lot of times differant country's so a ron from 91 -97 where as a chip can specify a fuel to use ie 98 ron and be mapped to suit. when my escort turbo was standard it returned 24 mpg average when it was chipped it made 28 average and 30bhp more :D hope this gives you reason to debate

just tweeked the timing a bit and thats it :?

timing chain :shock:

i cant find my reciept but kev's right they are differant

a bit late now but for future reference, i normally run car up with the expansion cap off and the heater on hot till the car is warm but not hot and then remove the top hose. restart the car and put a hose pipe on slow into the expansion pipe and run the car untill the water runs clear. now remove the bottom hose and flush the radiator out with the hose. refit the bottom hose and fit the top hose to the rad only. pour a bottle of coolant into the rad and reconnect the pipe to the engine. put second bottle into the expansion tank and top up with water. start car and top up as necessary as car warms up. once car is just below normal running temp and water level is fine refit cap and take for a drive of at least 5 miles. allow car to cool for a few hours and recheck level. all should now be okay as a note dont buy a antifreeze tester as only the refactor type work on g12+ properly and these cost £ 70 + if your any wher near high wycombe i can check it for you it should be a 50/50 mix if you wanna keep some pre mixed for top ups hope this helps

in relation to the AA guy he would have said it was a 4x4 to help you. if your car isnt standard and to low to be towed then the AA can charge you for specialised towing. remember it is cheaper and more cost effective to use a patrol to tow then send out a lorry. As for asking for a truck without being seen it rarely will happen. There has been many a time when i have turned up and the customer says that it is not repairable and 1/2 hr later is driving off. Too many people think they know and dont that a general policy is put into place that effects all, and rac do this as well. next time if you are 100% sure it cant be fixed then say you work at VW so you know what you are on about. And dont accuse all AA or RAC men as usless, some of us are knowelagble on corrado's as well.

nice and simple really :?

went to stealth last sunday and these are the results 8) well happy to say the least. ther was a g60 golf there which had a polished and ported head and a schrick cam, oil cooler and a front mounted intercooler from a ralley fitted and an unknown chip and he only made 1 ftlb torque more and 17 bhp which was all above my peak power otherwise they were neck and neck to my peak output :lol:

timing is probably out if you look down on dizzy with the cap removed you will see a scored line, basically when you turn the engine to tdc on piston 1 the rotor arm should be inline with this mark try that first i am assuming you have a 16v

any idea on price please steve as i will be needing one very soon cheers

springs are as 18= 180cm 6= 6mm dia of coil 6= 6nm mm2 funny but mine had same springs front and back and it was the front that was the problem which was 1866

mine were konigsports and are specific to the g60 so weight wont matter as the vr6 ones are hevier sprung good luck and let me know

i didnt think you liked the way mine rode hope yours are better

sorry mate only been there a month and only started membership on monday :oops:

now im sure some will slag me off for it, but i have recently becombe an AA patrol. Now i would love to offer everyone on here discount if they took out membership with me, but as i dont get discount, i cant :evil: what i can do tho is make this offer phone up the membership line on 0800 085 2721 and ask to take out membership, qoute ref no 64607 ( thats me ) 8) and then i will get commission on your sale. then PM me your name, address and your membership no they give you on the phone and when the commission comes through i will split it with you. this will vary from £5 - £10. i know its not a lot but as tesco proudly say, EVERY LITTLE HELPS. :lol: this is worth me doing as i will look good on paper as its members that make the company so i hope this helps :wink:

yep correct tho you dont need the netting as it blows not sucks :wink: as for the isv you just put the mini filter on the end of that

well mine runs a 68 pulley a piper cam and a flowed charger from pitstop and it made 211.4 bhp and 201.8 ftlb's at stealth earlier this month 8)

yes your right on that dr mat :oops:

if no joy try undoeing the four torx screws that hold the motor cover on ( the silver cover over the arbor ) and pull the cover back slightly and then put back in 1 screw and press the switch, if it now moves you need to take out the motor remove the cover and you will see where the motor brushes run against the arbour. clean these faces as best as you can and reassemble and retry. NOTE the cover must go on the same way or else the window will go the wrong way. good luck :D

yep the pedal position sensor will put the light on but the abs will still work just erratically :mad: check your relays above the glove box and the two fuses there as thats where your B+ supply is :? also try disconnecting the module for a few minutes and reconnect, its in the passenger footwell kick panel good luck and remember even if you fix the fault you need to clear the codes or it will keep flashing

i think you will find that gsf do the wishbones without the bushes in them so are a lot easier to do