Banana Man

The canister under the airbox can be removed it was designed for hotter climate countries to cut down emmisions but seeing as the corrados are all reaching at least the 10 yr old mark it wont be doing anything anyway so it can just be removed and a cold airfeed plumbed in to the aibox in its place. There have been several threads covering this mod just use the search tab and search for carbon canister which should bring up all the old topics on how to do the mod hope this helps Ant

Yeah thats my favorite one out of the lot of them :D

LOL curiosity killed the cat eh :D

My mate used to drive about in a austin mini that had no engine mounts at all!! all that was holdiing the engine in was 2 bits of rope tied to the door mirrors it was blo*dy funny when he opened the doors the engine would drop onto the floor. He drove it round like that for 4 months until one of the ropes snapped and the engine dropped to the floor at 40mph and dropped it's oil all over the road and that was the end of the mighty mini death trap :D :D

Hiya just thought I would post an update The car is at the bodyshop at the moment it's at a place called R&P Autos which is in east grinstead near where I live so it's quite handy really. The re spray cost is around the 2k mark and they haven't had to take the rear windows out as they have been able to do them in situ and I must say they have done a proper job the bonnet, tailgate, sideskirts and byumpers are being done at the mo thats why they aren't on the car but they are looking excellent as well I'm well chuffed with the work thats gone into it :D Should be getting it back by the weekend which is all good!

400 ohms I would think your car runs outragously rich the normal figure for the co pot with the stg 5 sns is around 800ohms but every car is different so that is just a rough figure.

:D Beyonce knowles :wink:

Halle Berry for me or the dahm triplets ( all 3 of them! ) :D god they're fit!

The CTR is a quick car I raced one up at santa pod 2 yrs ago. I was running around the 200bhp figure then and he just beat me by .356 of a second we were all even upto around the 70mph mark and then he obviously hit the power band which comes in at about 5500 revsand just edged in front. I think he would definately have the edge over you in a quarter mile race and I think it would be pretty even round the twisty stuff as they do handle pretty well as well. The guy I raced at the pod will be no match when the X flow engine is installed and setup in the next couple of months hehehe :)

oooohhhh been to the bodyshop to see how my car is getting on and it's almost done :D :D it looks bloody amzing the finish is superb looks factory fresh again maybe even better :D just need to build the engine up and drop in now and I'll be a happy man again! Getting withdrawal symtoms now it's been so long!

join the club I think I ve done it 4 times as well :D At least with the x flow engine in I wont have as many access problems as the inlet is going to be on the front of the head not the back and a nice 4 branch manifold should make it easy enough to take off if ever I needed too again ( which is more than likely :roll: )

Good write up Ian you done well :D practice makes perfect as they say :D Just to add to get the nuts nearest the head off the manifold to downpipe I find it's easier to access them from underneath the car and taking off the inner cv joint heat shield which joins to the block by 2 17mm bolts I think and I also remove the vibration damper which is the black block that sticks out from the subframe it's held in by 2 13mm bolts, once they are off you can get a wobble extension up onto the 3 nuts engine side of the downpipe. Hve fun welsh g60 and have a good first aid kit with plenty of plasters to hand as you will get plenty of cuts and scratches along the way :)

The bodyshop that is spraying my car at the minute haven't taken out the rear quarter glass they used little picks I think to raise the the rubber seals to be able to get paint underneath them. I went and had a look at it today as the main shell has been painted and the finish is faultless which I am very pleased about I cant wait to see what the finished car will look like :D A good bodyshop should be able to get a very good finish without having to take the glass out on the rear quarter as it is a very time consuming job as the glass is bonded in I believe!

It's a modded G40 scroll aint it????

here's my banana at last years inters and outside my house, looking alot smoother now though :D

You want an sns chip, a charger rebuild with it ported and flowed , and toothed belt drive these few mods will make a hell of alot of difference to the way your g60 pulls if you want to go really mad stick an high lift cam and get the head flowed and ported. With those mods you shoyuld be seeing over 210 bhp and have a really responsive engine As for where to buy them have a word with darren ( g-man ) from G werks and he could supply most of that for you!

I had a problem with fuel in the the sump a couple of years ago, that was due to a dry joint in the ecu and it was pumping too much petrol into the cylinders, which was causing it to pass the rings straight into the sump. I didn't notice any side effects of this for a while and then it started to become harder and harder to start in the mornings until one day it just didn't want start at all. That was when I was running standard chip and std charger. I got the ecu fixed and haven't had any problems like that since. I dont know if this could be the same problems your having but I'd thought I would mention it just in case, maybe worth getting it checked out!

Dont the G60's have a fuel shut off system built into the wiring so unburnt fuel isn't a factor on over run? I know of several pre 91 G60's that haven't got the so called fuel shut off system and pop out nice flames on over run when they have been tuned so I cant see why this feature on the later cars cant be reversed!

I love the mk1 mustang especially in red! I'm still trying to convince my dad to flog the stag and get one as he likes em too but haven't managed to persuade him yet. Maybe I'll have try getting him really drunk and then negotiate the deal to buy one and insure me on it :wink: :D

Demon tweeks do facet rad fans I got one on my G60 got rid of the cowling that the fan used to sit in, and that horrible large motor mine is about 1 1/2" in total depth so have a load of room in that area now :D

I also had a powerflow fitted at RSR in redhill they did a very good job no more banging on the trailing arm :D

8) :D The best thing for sig60 to do would be to buy the deflector plate, clean out all the pipes and if the oil loss is still excessive then it would be a good idea to check for smoke on acceleration ( worn bores or stem seals).My money is still on the deflector plate though as the returning boost from throttle body to charger will be drawing the oil through as it's returning back to charger. If this is the case I dread to think what state the pipework is in I bet the intercooler will be full of oil by now!

Dont forget henny without the deflector plate the oil will be splashing into the breather pipe that comes out of the rocker cover which will be draw into the boost return pipe caping everything in oil which could be a cause of the oil loss!!! :(

All 8v corrado's and golfs came with the deflector plate that goes under the rocker cover as far as I am aware all my golf mk2's and my corrado G60 alll came with one even with the aluminium rocker cover. If you want one the part number is 026 103 547

Have a look on the back of the throttle body there is a micro switch on the back if this has got bent and isn't making contact when the throttle is in it's neutral position that will cause most of your problems. I had this one a while back and was getting the same syptoms high fuel consumption, revs taking ages to settle back down and the car feeling really sluggish.