Linus Van Pelt

Not nice bud, I've had a couple of scrapes myself and I know what it feels like... :cry: Looking at your pic I would say that's easily repairable by any decent bodyshop without having to resort to replacing panels/etc, just a question of pennies really... :( I had a really bad scraping (by a hit & run) not all that long ago and got it all repaired without any problems (except the large dent in the wallet :lol: ). Check the old thread for pics: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Don't feel bad, you're not the first and you won't be the last! Take care, DtM.

I don't have any personal experience, but financially I can't see how it would work out any better than buying in the UK (which other than getting a 'country only' spec car like an MR2 Turbo, would be a reason to import). Good quality C's can be had for around £6K these days and whilst there would obviously be many more (cheaper) C's to buy in Germany, once you've factored in getting it back here (unless you know someone of course) the margain is going to be pretty small. Yes you might save money, but what price having to work out the logistics/regualtions/regsitration etc. You obviously don't mind the metric clocks, but an import will probably be LHD too and runs the risk of being that much harder to sell on should the time come... 2p DtM.

Quick Update (and another Reading/berkshire Garage reccomendation :lol: ). Took my misfiring C into RA Engineering (http://www.raengineering.co.uk/index.html), and explained all about the breather assembly diagnosis I'd had previously. They went through all their diagnostics (fuel & ignition systems) and decided that the breather and assembly was fine. The problem was a seriouslty cracked distributor cap... wtf? :shock: Apart from being really confused now, here's what I think has happened... I had a misfing problem, with the help of a friend I changed the Ignition leads (which I'm guessing was the main source of the original problem), presumably, when we refitted the distributor cap we accidentally damaged it :oops: over time it got worse so when I took it for a service, they diagnosed the breather hose (since my records would have shown the distributor was fairly new). I still think they ought to have checked it though :?:. Anyway, I told PL to check the breather, he replaced a clip but couldn't find anything else wrong with it (and reccomended going to RA Engineering) changing the clip did help a lot though (the original diagnosers refused to touch the hose saying they were afraid it would fall apart...) So RA changed the cap, and volia, no more misfiring :mrgreen: I've since dicovered that the Cap which was fitted was the el cheapo variety (naughty, naughty to the people concerned, mentioning no names), RA have put a pukker one on there now... The fact that they were working on both a Ferrrari Tesstarosa and a Lotus Esprit Turbo out the back made me feel much better. I spoke to the chap who worked on my car, and they get people coming to see them from all over the UK. Looks like I've found a new place to get my servcing done :thumbleft: DtM.

Thanks for the replies so far! joebrent - no amount of pushing/fast switching has any effect... not even a flicker... :( Supercharged - nothing's been unplugged recently, I checked all the physical connections and all is where it should be... :? Assuming I'm on the road to getting a replacement switch, has anyone changed it themselves... :?: Cheers, DtM.

Hey peeps, Okay, headlight switch one click gives sidelights (as expected), no change when I push the headlight switch again (i.e. no dipped beam, but the sidelights stay on). Main beam (pulling back on the stalk) works fine, as do the front foglights... I replaced both headlight bulbs (been meaning to anyway), checked all the fuses. I'm running a loom made by Bananman which runs a dedicated feed to the dipped beams, there's an inline fuse (checked), but still no joy... I've heard that the headlight switches do go (get quite hot don't they!)... do they go like this, or do they normally fail completely? Given I don't have access to anything like a multimeter, is there a way to check if it is the switch that's fubar'd? Getting the switch out doesn't appear to be terribly straight forward either... :( As always any assistance appreciated! Just when I finally got my misfiring sorted... ho hum... :roll: DtM.

dr_mat, I'll be honest mate, I didn't know what his hourly rate was... :oops: ...just needed someone to fix me my car :wink: Looking at my notes he charged me £95.50 for the following work (including parts/labout & VAT) Tightened N/S/F track rod New N/S/F CV boot kit New steering rack bolt Centered steering wheel Tracking Any repairs to the C that come in under £100 sounds like you got yourself a baaaaargiin to me... (Of course he did do the diagnostic work, and tightened & checked stuff for free, before I booked my car in). I've got several people I use depending on how difficult the jobs are (and whether it's mechanical or electrical and/or VAG specific). In the first instance, I've now started going to PL Autos (one of the owners lives across the road from me :mrgreen: ). If changing the timing chains isn't a monsterly complicated job, I suggest you give PL a ring for a quote as well (and ask for either Mark or Lyndon), their number's 0118 959 1007, they're on Cardiff Rd. (nr. ECP). See the following link for my thoughts on PL Autos: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Regards, DtM.

http://www.carsofthestars.com/ (shamelessly ripped from the Yahoo! C Group - sorry Chris...) ...mines the V8 Interceptor from Mad Max... yum yum :notworthy: DtM.

I don't know about your motor mate, but whoever had it sold the number plate off it... Showing as on retention for this car dealer, a snip at £3K... (http://www.autopointsales.co.uk/used_cars.htm) It may be they bought the car and then sold it on taking the number plate off... is that picture the right one? One way to get cash in I suppose... Not much help, but you could always phone them to see if they have any more info... :?: Regards, DtM.

http://dcoe.net/johnsaxo2.mpg Still wish you gave up the Saxo? :mrgreen:

...you could always try and make Guy Hartley an offer he can't refuse... ...311bhp Supercharged VR6 Storm... :shock: num num num num num num... :drool: DtM.

Have you tried talking to Stealth Racing? (http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/) They seem to do the 1.8 16V (def. the VR)... but given that the 2.0 16V (9A) wasn't put in anything other than the Corrado and the Passat, I guess there's not the same demand to develop it... :?: Worth a shot if you haven't tried them yet. Thinking about it a bit more, you'll probably find the cost will spiral unless you can use 'off the shelf' parts... it wouldn't be long before you start reaching engine swap territory... I'd find out how much it would cost to drop a 20V 1.8T in (which we have people on here who've done it). Economically speaking the 9A is an (_|_) to tune, it can be done, but the horses/pennies ratio is not pretty. DtM.

...unitl the rear ABS sensors disintegrated that it is... :roll: So the net result was front/rear discs, pads, bearings, rear ABS sensors, rear caliper bolts, breather hose clip* and fanbelt adjustment... - (excluding theft) rear brake discs were £16.99 ea, front discs were £17.50 ea, all rear pads £23.50, all front pads £24.50, rear bearings £11.00 ea and the nasty bit was the ABS sensors at £52.50 a pop :shock: Still, with all that work (and it did invlove melting bolts again :oops:), I only got charged £110 labour! :notworthy: *see http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= it's 90% better now and no new breather assembly was required! Well that settles it, any and all work on my C is now going to these guys. :thumb right: (Speak to Lyndon or Mark) PL Auto Services Ltd 165-167 Cardiff Road, Reading RG1 8HY 0118 959 1007 http://sites.yell.com/passport/goto/pla ... pable=true Mods, could you put these details in the recommended garages for me :mrgreen: DtM.

How spooky is that :shock: :lol:

Insurance shouldn't go up by any silly numbers mate, IIRC I ended up only paying about another 10-12% (you can always soak that up by increasing your voluntary excess) It was the "Lifetime Guarantee " that sold me on one! DtM.

(When) I get the pennies, I'll probably go the whole hog and get the matching CAT/remap to go with it... (since the insurance people will screw you over because Milltek claim a 10% power increase :shock:, which quite frankly is a load of old cobblers , but it does mean I have that window of opportunity to play with before they can stuff my premium up any more) ...oh how they laughed when I said I would keep it standard... :lol: DtM. (In my defence I have spent so much on the car that getting more power by getting a G60/VR would be 'uneconomical' :mrgreen: - well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it)

I have one and they are yummy... :mrgreen: I noticed a much smoother power delivery, it may be a bit on the noisy side for some (and for me originally, but in the end it grew on me and it's only loud if you really boot it - not when cruising on the motorway). It can turn heads though... :lol: Never regretted getting it, but don't forget to declare it on the insurance! DtM.

hmmmnn, I didn't actually get a manual with mine... (the rotters) just a security card with some codes on it. I must be thinking of the Scorpion alarm that's fitted to the missus' Golf.

Yes, that's what I used to do when it was playing up, just lock it and the immobilser/light will come on* and no-one will know the difference (incidentally, full closure was enabled on mine by default... :?:) Never used valet mode, is that the one with lots of turns of the ignition key - or something else equally convoluted?) DtM. *incidentally, all C's should have a transpoder chip in the key housing which actually acts as another immobiliser...

I wouldn't be the one to explain how you can check these things, but there's plenty on here that will... Being the eternal lazy bar-steward, I'd take it to your local friendly mechanic (maybe someone can recommend somewhere for you?). I'm quite fortunate in that I have four places to go whenever I need something doing... (in addition to asking on here) ...and :shock: that even includes a $tealer that knows what a Corrado is and even has people that were born before the car was made :-P Generally speaking I'll narrow down the problem using the (very) nice people on here, then you can go to someone and say "check this part for wear please" rather than leave yourself open by saying, "something's wrong can you find it". Since inspections will only ever cost you labour, limiting what you ask them to do, will stop them charging you hours of time for finding nothing, or charging you for stuff you don't need doing (yet :lol:). Hope this helps! DtM.

Jim, I had the bonnet sensor go weird on me, I think the 'new' alarm used some of the 'old' alarms wiring, so the metal loop that connects to the plunger pin on the bonnet was foobar'd (only ever happened after the car had work done on it :lol:). The other (strange) one I get is the little courtesy light you get in the boot... for some reason it's not fixed in quite right, and if it pops out of it's hole, that sets the alarm off... although I have no idea why... (I only mentioned these 'cause I have a Cobra and you mentioned boot/bonnet). 7928.... SNAP! DtM.

Hey bud, Re: steering... first off I'd suggest getting the tracking & wheel alignment done (this way you'll also know if there's any problems with stuff like the track rods) and then if that doesn't work check that all the stuff in that area is how it should be (front wishbone lower arms and their bushes in particular!). I'm assuming that your brakes are ok, a sticky front caliper might do that too I guess... If you're still on the original suspension, then that might also have something to do with it (usual checks are top mounts, maybe engine mounts too - this might be where your crashing is coming from?). If you can afford it, I'd recommend changing the suspension, it makes a world of difference, even if you only go for OEM stuff (like I did). Good choice of C btw 8) (P.S. where in the SW are you? My folks are in Cornwall...) DtM.

Found this on another motoring forum, might help, might not... My dad also test drove one and said that whilst it was a very nice car, there's not enough torque for those moments when you need it (a bit like the way you have to change down or rag the a*se of a v-tec to overtake), when in a n/a 3L 6-pot (or similar car) you can get away with just pointy toes :lol: DtM.

Cheers bud, I finally got a quote back from the local garage (the owner lives opposite me ;-)), £110 parts and £90 labour, that's much better 8)

...with reference to the Ford parts I take it... :?: ...if that's the case then I'm back to square one (getting the whole assembly from VW) :cry: Thanks anyway people, it was a worth a try :wink: DtM.

Most excellent dr_mat sir, you're a gentleman and a scholar 8) (even if the assembly is fubar'd, it's got to be worth spending some pennies on just a hose first to see)