Linus Van Pelt

After a recent service, my C's misfiring problem was diagnosed as a split in the breather hose (cuasing an air leak) and possibly some kind of blockage in the breather assembly. Now, I've looked on that russian site :wink: and found the assembly, but I can't find the hose that attaches to it... Someone who really should know thinks the hose is part of the assembly (since it's a sealed unit :?:) but ETKA suggests otherwise... Is the breather hose a seperate item in it's own right and can it be changed without changing the assembly (assuming that the assembly doesn't have a blockage in it)? A part number would be lurrvly... (my russian's not so hot :lol:) - can't find anything on ECP either... Ta muchly, DtM.

Mines only a 6CD one but it's mounted in the boot (attached to the O/S/R wheel arch). The previous owner obviously had something similar as I can see the holes in the boot only these are on the lip under the boot catch... I know some people put then in the glove box, but it's the first place scrotey boy will go when they've put your window through... having said that, I'm not sure you'd fit a 12 disc one in there :?: DtM.

Welcome aboard matey ;) It's also possible to pick up CD versions of the manual for a fraction of the cost (maybe $20?), might be rare as rocking horse doodoo, but if you keep an eye on ebay, I'm sure one'll turn up sooner or later (I've just checked and there's none currently availble :() As for the fuse that was in the car when you got it, perhaps it was taken out because it didn't work...? Do you remember which one it was and can you source a replacement? DtM.

Hey Andy, thanks for your post! The answer to all but one of the things you mentioned has already been checked, this one I didn't know about however... I got the tracking done straight after the blowout (just after I replaced the tyres), it was not the same people that just did the alignment... :scratch: I can easily find out though but it might help if you (or anyone else) knows which side is the one you do and which one is the one you don't... :?: Is there anyway to tell what's been done before? Thanks again, DtM.

The best description I can give is that the car feels like the off-side front wheel is loose and slightly detached from the steering wheel. In hard cornering to the left, the car feels fine, hard cornenering to the right (and when the car straightens up), it's as if the O/S/F wheel takes a moment to catch up with the N/S/F wheel. In general driving, dips and bumps affecting the O/S/F wheel have more effect on the steering wheel than the N/S/F and even with no real steering input it's as if the O/S/F wheel has a mind of it's own making the steering quite twitchy and not at all like it was when I first got it. This has been happening more or less since I had the blowout (@50mph), after which the car mounted a kerb (part of a dual carriageway central reservation), the lower bumper taking the initial force, but the rest was on the wheel itself (more or less side on I think). Since nothing is obviously wrong to a computer alignment and two different visual inspections, any thoughts on where else to look? Could hitting the kerb have damaged the internal bits of the steering rack? (In the last two years my C has had new springs/dampers, new bearings, new tie-bars, one new boot kit, steering rack bolt and new front wishbone lower arms. I've also just had a 4 wheel alignment and two different garages can't find anything wrong... including checking all the bushes and for any play in any of the wheels, I know my brake callipers are getting well past it and I've also been advised to get new discs and pads, but I'm not sure if this has any bearing on the steering since the brakes move with the wheels...) Cheers as always for any words of wisdom... DtM.

Started in a D, moved to a C, now living in a B... luvvly. (Parents live in an A, but there's no way I'm moving there :lol:) Cracking find there Jim, nice one! DtM.

Cheers bud, From the feel of it, the pads are certainly due a change, probably worth a second opinion on the discs though. I'm getting quotes around the £400 mark for doing discs/pads all round, does this sound about right? (when I last had them done I had a whole heap of other things done at the same time, so I don't know how much of it was down to this bit). Thanks again, DtM.

Quick straw poll: I had all my discs and pads changed back in Sep'02 (all standard replacements), since then I've done about 30K miles, mostly enthusiastic motorway driving and only tending to use the brakes when it's actually necessary... (none of this numpty safety braking rubbish :roll: )... I recently had the C serviced and I've been told that I need new pads and discs. Does this sound about right for their expected lifespan...? Cheers, DtM.

Cheers Kevin! I'm having some hesitation/misfiring 'issues' with my C at the moment, changing the leads has helped (it was the lead to cylinder one that was at fault), but all is still not quite right. Once I've eliminated the usual ignition gremlins (sparkies, disty cap & rotor arm) I'll try changing the fuel filter (in case it's starvation) and if none of that works I'll have to look elsewhere... Note to no-one in particluar, if you want to learn about cars, buy a Corrado :lol: DtM.

Changed my Ignition leads on Sat, with one minor complication... On my 2.0 16V, the lead to cylinder one has some kind of induction loop thing attached to it. The new lead didn't come with one on it and there's no way to get it off or on without resorting to other means*. (*Got around it in the end by cutting off the old lead, un-crimping the plug on the new one, threading it over and recrimping the lead...) Edited to add... According to ETKA it's an "Impulse Sender"... Question still stands though, what's it for? :wink: DtM.

Two things you could try... stick your lights on and use the lights to help you judge and get closer to the obstacle behind and/or as you're looking out of the rear windscreen, keep your head pointing towards the side of the car and get your head as high as you can (so you're keeping your head fixed and looking out to the side), I find that these both help... Don't feel bad... the shape of the C's back end doesn't lend itself easily to tight maneuvering... it took me a while to get used to it too... ...and don't get me started on the blind spots :lol::heartattack: :shock: DtM.

I was lucky, the owner of my car when it was on 60K had the foresight to write it on the service record, so I did the same when I had it done at 120K... DtM.

I'm pretty certain that it's every 60,000 miles for a change but they should be checked thouroughly in between (i.e. every 30,000 miles). At least that's when mine have been changed... I'd be really suprised if the interval on yours is any different. If you're doing a DIY make sure to change the tensioner at the same time. DtM.

...don't forget there's also the differences in the weight distribution, centre of gravity and aerodynamics... :mrgreen: ...still, it makes a change from the obligatory VR6 vs G60 debate we usually get on here :lol: :roll: :silly: ...I'll get my coat... DtM.

Hey Scott, I've owned it for just over two years now. Before that I did have a Mk3 Golf... but it was the 1.4 with a jaw dropping 60 bhp I've no idea what the difference in power would be... I think 16V engines are generally better than 8V if you're doing motorway driving... :?: I was originally intending to get a Mk3 16V GTi, but test drove the C and bought it on the spot (without test driving the GTi :lol:). I would say that the single defining characteristic for the Corrado over the Golf (irrespective of the engine) is that the handling of the C is much better. For this reason it's easier to drive the C and make it 'feel' faster than the equivalent Golf (and the lower driving position and extra torque helps I think too). Can't remember the last time I had to brake for a roundabout If you're anywhere near me, I'd be happy to take you for a spin (metaphorically speaking). DtM.

Take it with a pinch of salt m'lad, this is about what the owners manual says it does, but I have no idea how they arrive at this figure. For one, there's way too many different human variables to take into account. You've got the drivers reaction time, clutch control and power delivery, the familiarity with the car, the art of using a cable change gear box :wink:, changing gear at the optimum revs, etc... Other reviews have it closer to 8 sec, and from my own personal experience I'd say this was about right. The main issue here is the gear ratios, since you have to be in 3rd to hit 60. Some cars (mentioning no brands) actually fudge the ratios so that you can reach 60 in 2nd to make them look faster than they really are. However, 0-60 is only indicative of one thing, the TLGP (traffic light grand prix). The figures you really want to take notice of (imho) are the in-gear 30-50, 40-70, and all that sort of stuff (like overtaking). This is where you'll find the tools you need for most real world driving scenarios... DtM.

YHPM :mrgreen:

...my mrs has (my old) Mk3 Golf :wink:

Daily driver for me too, Reading to Sutton commute :shock: (for the last six months), works out at about 700 miles per week (assuming I don't use it over the w/e...) (The good news is that I've negotiated my hours so I do the M4/M25 run at 06.00 when the roads are nice and quiet :twisted: I leave early too so I almost always miss the worst of the traffic - don't think I could stomach the commute at the 'usual' times :wink:) Bought the car in Nov '01 with 89K on the clock, now on something over 124K... DtM.

Thanks guys! :goesofftohuntforsomemk3calipers: DtM.

I know that the Corrado brake callipers are particluarly prone to seizing (my rear ones have siezed up yet again I think), and I believe I'm right in saying that this has a lot to do with the design... Question is, for a straight swap, what other alternatives are there? Please note that I'm really looking for the options with the least amount of modifications... (i.e. cheap ) Cheers! DtM.

Same here, it's what I use in mine... DtM.

AFAIK the rear quarter window is bonded/glued on in the same way as the windscreen... as such it would be an (_!_) to get off I'd expect... DtM.

...if I actually drank liqour... :shock: :lol: (let this be a lesson for anyone considering high mileage commuting! ) DtM.