Linus Van Pelt

try here for starters... http://www.speed-trap.co.uk/Accused_Hom ... s_Home.htm

:lol:

The only caveat to the 14 day rule I know is if the driver wasn't the registered keeper (i.e. company car, hire car etc.) ....assuming driver is registered keeper and all details are up to date (as far as I know) the 14 day rule is still a given ;) ...thinking about it, you have 28 days in which to reply to the NIP, maybe that's where the 'solicitor' got confuzzed... LvP.

You could also try spraying rubber lubricant* around the frame. I had the exact same problem myself and this worked wonders. *quit sniggering at the back ;) LvP.

Happy to oblige ;) (I do have some uses :lol: )

Hmmmn, my temprature gauge reads constantly under by about 10-20 degrees, and my fuel gauge works on a bell curve (goes down really quickly to begin with, slows down to a crawl and hangs around in the middle for ages and then speeds up on it's way towards the reserve tank). I know the temp gauge is a fault as it didn't used to do this, but I'd be interested to know if this could be an instrument fault rather than a sensor one (i.e cheaper ;) ). Curioisity only on the fuel gauge though, I seem to remember my mk3 had a similar habit, albeit not quite as obviously as the C... LvP.

Daily driver for me too, 130 miles/day, 3 days a week for commuting, just went over 147K miles 8) My C has (almost) always been a high miler, it just keeps getting stronger the more miles it gets :lol: I don't have any economy worries either since I regularly get mid 30's on the way to work and high 30's on the way back ;) LvP.

I had this conversation with someone myself recently, and staying away from the obvious expensive options, I was told that G60 calipers at the front with Mk4 Golf calipers at the back (with some slight modifcations to the brake lines) was the way forward... (together with better discs!). I'm still waiting for a costing on this, so no idea how cheap/expensive this will be (but should be less than brembo et al). Saying that though, the front brakes are doing most of the braking, so I'd look at changing those first... ;) LvP.

neither... bushes, or even brake compensator valve![/quote:15a8f] 8) Cheers bud, I was hoping someone would say something like that! :wink: Regards, LvP.

Sorry, just need to wrestle my topic back for a second ;) Creaking rear suspension... shocks, springs or both :?: ...and if I have to change one of them, am I better off doing them both at the same time, or is the life expectancy different for the two bits... I've only had this set on for about 2 yrs, maybe 50K miles in total... premature or about right (considering there was a time when I did a lot of really badly maintained roads)? Thanks in advance to the mighty brains on this forum :mrgreen: LvP.

http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/gti/index.html This one should start a heated deabte... :lol: LvP.

Do you mean the car idles at 1500? Seems awfully high to me if that's the case... Mine idles at about 900 - 950. I had all manner of idle troubles when I got mine, the final cure involved a throttle switch and temprature sender (as dr_mat, rightly points out). I can dig up part no's if you need them. The ISV could still be the problem, I guess (mine improved slightly with cleaning, but improved more when I slapped a new one in), unfortunately they're not cheap ,about £100 from euro car parts or German & Swedish. Other possible candidates (clucthing at straws though) include a sticky throttle cable or blocked fuel filter. I used to have an excellent article on fixing and adjusting 16V idles, only the link is dead now... :( if you have the patience you could try going through the VW FAQ for answers... Failing that I'd get it to a Bosch Service Centre, they have all the diagnostic kit and won't charge the earth like a $tealer would. LvP. Update: Just e-mailed the chap who was hosting the article (Andrew - Volkswizard) and he kindly e-mailed it back to me ;) Admittedley this is aimed at the Golf 16V engines (i.e not the one that's in the 2.0) but it should hold true in most parts (I would expect...)

Said the bodyshop guy to the missus, "I didn't have him down as married" Said the missus to the bodyshop guy, "if he wasn't married to me, he'd be married to that car" :lol: :lol: Does that make me a bigamist? :mrgreen: Just don't ask me which one's had the most money spent on it :oops: LvP.

Not a problem, I know the feeling well... ...who are you again? :lol: Hope it's all luurvly for you when you get it back :wink: LvP.

oohh matron! :-P

If I'm reading the diagram correctly, it says #12. Packing - Upper. Helpful (not) :lol:

Sorry, just re-read that... this rubber thingy is part of the spring, in between the top two 'coils'...

OK, I give in. I've been having issues with my rear suspension. Upon closer examination, I found that the bits of rubber at the top of my rear springs had perished, and large chunks had fallen off :shock: I explained this to my local garage who took the car away from me and when they bought it back, they hadn't changed these parts but they fixed the suspension problem... :scratch: :lol: They changed the rear top mounts (both upper and lower). The bits that are in various stages of disentegration are the 'spring cups' or somesuch (apparently these have no real effect on the car :?: ) Could some kind soul please explain this one to me (what are they called and why are they there! - the 'cup' thingymebobs)... Ta ;)

The German Corrado site says there was a total of 97,521 Corrados built, of which about 41,000 went to Germany and of these about 20,000 are currently left; so about half would probably be about right. It also says that in the last year of production, 2,424 Corrados were built (although there's no indication of whether that's world-wide or Germany only). LvP.

Yes, it is supposed to come on when you start the car. Usually stays on for about 1-2 seconds. Hopefully it's just a bulb that's gone. Bad things in the ABS department involve the light staying on, or coming on whilst driving ;) LvP.

...thank the stars it didn't end up looking like the last couple of pics... :gag: ...how lucky we were ;)

Not sure if this is the correct terminology... Throttle on, absolutely no problem, take foot off throttle (clutch out) and car seems to splutter (slight kangaroo effect) rather than deaccelerating smoothly. Not sure, but it might be doing it on a tiny amount of throttle. Clutch in, and again there's no problem. Especially noticeable in 1st and 2nd, less so in 3rd and above. Is this a heat related thing? I did a lot of short journeys today, and my cars used to doing long ones... Sound familiar to anyone? Cheers! LvP.

I did this on mine not that long ago. I just changed the passenger side one, so I'm not sure how the cable is routed across the front of the car. From memory it took about 15 mins, but I could do it in less than five now I know what to expect :lol: The only thing that might give you grief, is getting the cable from the back of the light, through the car to the plug by the battery. What I ended up doing was cutting the old cable behind the old fog light, tied this to the new cable (plug end) and then pulled it through, giving assistance where necessary. If I remember rightly, the cable goes down a hole just in front of the battery, so I found it a bit of a pig threading the new cable up through that hole, but becuase I had it tied to the existing cable, it wasn't that bad. With hindsight, removing the headlight would probably also have helped (or at least give you more room to play with!) Not sure how much help this is, but I can take pics for you tommorow if you need some reference... :?: LvP.

You can also get them from GPC (I did), cost me £45 ( http://www.gpcvwaudi.com ) Be warned though, you need to remove the bumper to stand any chance at all of getting the new one in... I didn't and I couldn't :( [it's offically called the "lower front grille"] LvP.

195/50/15 on the 2.0 16V is 38 psi front and 33 psi rear... (half load) LvP.