dannyboy

Hi guys, Back on the forum again after 6 years (time flies) ,just seeing how everyone is doing?Hope all you guys and gals are doing well. I moved to Canada, bought a house and settled down but after all those years i still miss my 20vt rado. Im eyeballing a G60 to make a new project.

Chances are your intank pump has failed and is causing a restriction to the outer pump causing it to cavitate. extend the outer pump suction end pipe with a piece of fuel hose into the tank bypassing the intank pump and see if its as noisey.if it quietens-new intank pump.

Hi guys, back again after long time away,defintely missing my rado. I had to sell her after as I moved out of Germany after serving 13 years. I dont have a rado yet but planning to find one soon and ready for another project build. I'll contribue to support if anyone needs a hand in the mean time ;) Daniel

Does the spoiler work on the switch?

Does the mfa show current speed? If the Speedo works and mfa shows current speed start looking at spoiler control module or wiring

Dont have wiring diagrams right now. Is your dash electric or mechanical driven speedo. Mechanical had a signal generator that fed three items. The dash itself, the spoiler control module and stereo sensor

Should also be a blue/white wire.was used for the speed sensitive radio.as speed went up so did the volume

Behr is a german refrigerator/cooler system company.either one is good gents. Just stay away from the generic eBay ones

g60 or vr6 pump easily flows enough to keep a 044 happy. Ive got a IE tank and pump and im running nearly 300bhp and no problem. Originally my g60 pump couldn't provide enough pressure at high rpm but flow was good. It's old so way past it's prime but it only feeds the 044 so it doesn't create any pressure now

Hi guys been a while since I've been on the forum. Just checking things out to see how guys are doing! Still have the car, finding it very difficult to get ready to put her up for sale. How you guys doing?

waiting for the redundacy in april next year and then permanatly going to canada if all goes well.i can import over for two years before i have to put it through the go/no go test as itll be a classic by then. if i sell it ill end up buying another one over there and doing the same thing which will cost lots

man you already know i dont want to sell it ;) my misses in canada telling me not to sell it and make sure i can get it over there hook or crook. it will drive me mad if i have to sell it

guys just a simple question,how rare are these sunroof-less models? No word on how many made etc? dont really want to sell it if its that rare and still in good condition

cheers clumpy, not selling it straight away but come decemeber it should be sold for the 3.5-4k euro mark im hoping for. Amount i spent in parts is worth more than vehicle alone but you never really make a profit on a car like this.I am vetting the buyer though,prefer a enthusiast not just selling it to some teenager to wrap it around a lampost.i will still offer my bit of knowledge out to anyone who asks in the spirit of the forum. In true VW nutter fashion i still own one,just a few thousand miles away right now so the bug has bitten,im infected for life

cheers clumpy, not selling it straight away but come decemeber it should be sold for the 3.5-4k euro mark im hoping for. Amount i spent in parts is worth more than vehicle alone but you never really make a profit on a car like this.I am vetting the buyer though,prefer a enthusiast not just selling it to some teenager to wrap it around a lampost.i will still offer my bit of knowledge out to anyone who asks in the spirit of the forum.

Thanks for all you support bryan,i wont be completely gone from the forum as ill offer help to those who need it as i have recieved over the years. Im really unhappy about doing it but theres not any real fesiable way to keep it and im deffo not going to strip it

Gents is with sad regret that i once more bow out to the corrado scene and has taken me long time to get over the fact that i will have to sell her due to the fact ill be moving permenantly over to Canada. She was be sorely missed,i really wanted to ship her over but the requirement in Canada makes it quite difficult to import as it doesnt retain its original engine. Had some awesome times in her and was even thinking about taking it apart and shipping all parts required to install in one over there,however just cant bring myself to strip a prefectly good corrado. I will be back in the scene at some point

You need g60 engine mounts,2 litre ones wont work. ive an early bonnet and mine clears fine just cant use the engine trim cover

as owen said idle screw.there will be a small o-ring on it too,replace as its a 10p part and sorts idle problems out. Go to a scrappy and pull one out of any mk2 fuel injected golf

1m ECU hose from TB to ecu,did you replace it with correct length?its very important! Is your ecu chipped? Touching terminals together on the g60 does nothing,g60 doesnt have an apdative ecu. Lambda sensor doesnt have great effect on the car,it only goes into closed loop on idle.even then it can only control the fuelling +-10%. 0.3-0.6 volt is a good reading as it puts the a/f near stroic.0-1 volt pulse means switching is slow and sensor is getting old. but the switching of a lambda sensor is too fast for a normal multimeter to read properly. As supercharged said check earth strap on gearbox or cylinder head.Green wire is important wire from the ecu to the coil as this triggers the coil to discharge

Well months fly by and decided to to ditch the "cough" ford i had in canada. A great deal was placed in my lap and i found it impossible to refuse.As it do a 110 km commute a day i needed a 4 cylinder diesel which in Canada is hard to find at a good price in a good condition. I looked at 12 TDis in total,10 had blown turbo seals and other 2 were overpriced (£10,000 for 2009 model with 200,000 miles is normal!!!) after long search and many miles covered looking to view them,found one 2km away! 2004 Jetta Tdi PD100(only one engine trim they get over here for that year) with the added bonus off beening manual(quite rare over here) with cruise control,leather seats etc and full service history which was verified by VW ... all for £4200 :) Result me thinks!

MFA will only have speed and time. mpg and others wont work and there is no known way to get them working. Brakes i would deffo upgrade because even 280mm struggle at higher speeds. fuel pump will be fine so long as its in good shape. AUQ engine is DBW and AGU is DBC so you cant use dbw ecu with dbc throttle body without lots of mods which arent worth the hassle.

I used a washer and split pin because two cotter pins broke on me.I cant confirm first one was OEM but second one was OEM and it still broke.All the washer does is take the lateral movement of the gearlever and spreads it over a larger surface of a split pin rather than acting on the cotter pin directly (bit like using bolt and washer to spread tension over an area) You dont have to,i just got fed up losing gearing in places you dont want to.

That C-clip is a pain in the AR$£ to get into place and chances are it will come off again. Ive put the tightest split pin i could find and a washer so it wont be coming off again. mine got stuck when i was on a autobahn dropping down a gear to overtake at 80mph.Now that was dangerous as i had no gears in the outside lane. People need to calm down,people using their horn in anger are a bunch of idiots. its there to warn of a danger,like some idiot parked opening a door without looking or someone walking out in front of you

Four cylinder bell housing is different,only mates to 4 cylinder blocks,so no im afraid.Dont know if anyone has removed the bell housing from a 6 cylinder and put it on a 4 cylinder box.Inside the box is the basicly the same though.The gearbox code is located on the flat surface close to the inspection cover.it will be covered with crud and difficult to see.