dannyboy

i agree with sean on this,porting only helps high revs plus you may end up with a very unhappy engine in the low to mid rev range due to the mixture not burning efficently to to the slow down in velocity entering the combustion chamber. getting 250 bhp from the vr6 is unrealistic without spending lots of money on increased displacement,injectors and ecu to match.Ill probably stand corrected but im sure the r32 3.2 is 240 bhp standard which would be a easier and cheaper way of acheiving 250.Lots of people focus on bhp when they should consider torque more.torque is more fun than bhp.

mine was about £290 from some company in kent,cant remember the name. Mines a resonated early system which differs in price so around £300-330 is normal price

lumpy idle when warm is usually- blue coolant temp sender,vacuum leak(o-ring on idle screw or injector seals) or idle screw not set to correct rpm. I take it since youve got pink coolant its been converted to g12

If the compression is good in the cylinders and no knocking or excess vibration leave bottom end as is.Unless the head is ingesting its own oil theres really no need or valves arent seating correctly. If its a daily get the glader recon and go stage 4 by reputable company, 68mm pulley,GOOD chip and do a consumables change on the engine,ie spark plugs,dizzy cap and arm,all filters and oils. Clean out intercooler and pipes(i use hot water and washing powder) and youll have a happier motor. Sometimes its all it takes

guy little off topic but ive just noticed very important engineering point id like to share. Ive just driven back from uk and had to put 30 litres of fuel in my raddo to make it to german before i had to refuel. i put in bp 97 octane and when i got to kempton in germany my engine was hotter than usual but FMIC was cold.feel the heat from my front end. put vpower 100 octane in and done the same speed at the same temp(actually i went 200 kmph for 300 kms as i wanted to get back earlier) and engine was colder than when i used 97. octane does work but fmic was still same temp drop so its up to octane rating to drop engine temp not just fmic on a turbo engine. most of you know that but i like to share thoughts with rest of the the forum. dragoon green youve got nearly same surface area as mine so you should see nearly same temp drop mate! only that ive got vcds can i find ive got inlet temps. hows your car mate?

i personal think youve got electrical fault somewhere,especially if the guage reads lower than normal. i had problem while back similar which was temp guage going through the roof,figured out washing engine bay caused water to get into temp sender and short it out. fan came on as usual and drive fine,changed switch all gone

In my opinion get a replacement displacer,you can buy them but not cheap. welding a cast piece is never a permanent fix in my eyes even if its done properly. The magnesium alloy is fragile and even slight off balance will cause vibration even if its very small.on a high rpm piece of equipment you cant really take a chance so buying a new one will give you piece of mind. im not trying to undermine anyone but ive had lots of experience with g-laders and my german mates know quite a bit on them and theyre usual vw nutters. if you want it done cheap,get it welded. if you want it done right,get new displacer.

Got it all working my man,wasnt really that hard to be honest just had to use msd 89-- adaptor and found the right output wire from ecu. Dont you have to do aa few mods to later cluster to get it to fit in earlier car ie. the coolant warning light,etc?

It is very good kev hence im running stupid amount of timing but its a double edge sword-in winter it overcools the charged air too much so engine dumps stupid amount of fuel in to compensate for subzero temps. Its fast but terrible economy during winter

theyre good but you need to check gap is more important,also get a wire brush on them plug threads

Mines golf g60 one,but their tad expensive and getting hard to find in good condition. its huge and sits tight in the front but ideally need the rad that attaches to it to make it good fit. As for temps, in heat of german summer had it at 29c.the inlet temps where 34c on the autobahn at full boost.thats a good FMIC and best part is it needs very little mods to fit

unless you ran the pump dry,you cant really damage a pump,unless the belt was far too tight

every raddo ive had its been red, is this an updated oil?

crap ecu relay causes the car to cut out randomly whatever your driving or not but unlikely because its running after its started. Could be lots of things, Cracked HT leads,wrong plugs,Coil getting old, Wiring, Dizzy hall sender on the way out,Ecu 1 meter hose disconnected or perished...etc disconnecting blue temp sender when cold doesnt make slightist difference.only causes problems on idle when warm by overfuelling causing a hunting idle and stalling. to check to see if it a fuel problem,disconnect the thermocouple switch beside the isv.its a single brown wire that attachs to switch on intake manifold. Touch this off any metal part of the engine and fan will come on.the fuel pump will run too but you cant really hear it(this is the fuel overrun circuit when engine is really hot). Let it run for about 20 seconds and this will make sure your fuel pressure is built up and no airlocks.Reconnect it then try start the car when cold. If no difference start looking at ignition problem

well guys been a while since ive been on but ive been really busy Only back in uk 12 hours and look what happened!!! Slimey scumbag hit my car and drove off without a note on windscreen or anything!!! Not really bad but panel is dented and bumper has moved,What a W****r

isv sticking,had gti with the kr and idle was sorted after cleaning out the isv. If it idle gets better then month later goes back to the way it was you need new isv. Also the idle speed screw at the back of the tb.Rubber o-ring in there perishes causing wonky idle. also check the k-jet plate as said that it isnt sticking or jammed. all the oil from breather ends up on it and gunk sometimes cause sticky plate movements if youve unplugged the fifth injector it should be fine,if it was stuck open youd have problems starting the car. Could be ignition too so check and make sure all earth cables arent corroded,this will cause nightmares that even electricains hate

The petrol pools on the intake manifold under the injectors when it leaks then heat of the exhaust ignited the fuel. Sorry mate I feel for u,its happened to me once but caught it early. The next time a little animal chewed the lines and I wasn't so lucky second time. Perfectly honest the design was not one of vw s best!

That g60 has suffered an engine fire due to the infamous pressure switch hose leaking,very easy to see.wish my one got away with that!

I'm trying to find one over there as I'm moving to calgary next year but most examples are like you said either in poor condition due to someone who waits til the oil is like tar before changing it or a 18 year old who has cut the springs to lower it! I'm still trying to import my euro one as it well over fifteen year old now so its exempt the register but I don't have the original engine in it so its a gamble if they notice the difference! You have some nice models there,hope ur enjoying them!

Obd 1 is just two pin isn't it? The car has to have obd 2 to use the generic cable.u need a adptor with that cable too.blink codes is the cheapest way if function is available( should be)

Yeah chewed through fuel lines,car went up in flames!

Abs unit on lhd is completely different to rhd. Lhd incorporates abs pump,valve block,accumalator and master cylinder all into one block. Expensive even when you could get them £2500 for a unit! And they're non serviceable. Think seen someone on here took a step by step guide to dismantling one but that's rhd one. Worse comes to worse mate I could see about bidding on German eBay for you and you cover all the costs item and shipping.they turn up all the time.or you could see if you can find one as some deliver to uk

Kevin pm coming ur way!

Silicon stick that looks like the old shoe polish bottles. Work the bottle around the seals,leave on and forget. Makes sticky and frozen doors a thing of the past.2-3 quid Max and lasts for ages

A old pic before I done my conversion.I just kept it pretty standard look